Lifting a trailer

[dryfly]

There have been many discussions on the correct way to lift a trailer for tire changing or maintenance. The manufactures say only lift by placing the jack on the frame. Many have successfully used the Trailer-Aid device. I have always used a bottle jack and placed a piece of wood, or now, a fabricated piece of angle iron, carefully placed on the 2 U-bolts that connect the axle with the leaf springs. I've never seen evidence this has damaged my axle tubes.

However, on this forum and others, there appears to be more frequent reports of leaf springs breaking. This has been pretty uncommon in the past, but I'm guessing this is a result of lower quality suspension components being used throughout the industry. I am now wondering if my using a bottle jack to lift my trailer by essentially putting all the pressure (weight of trailer) on a spring is a good idea??

[Dick Noble]

I've lifted a lot of trailers from the axles, never seemed to have a problem.

[Chewwi]

There have been many discussions on the correct way to lift a trailer for tire changing or maintenance. The manufactures say only lift by placing the jack on the frame. Many have successfully used the Trailer-Aid device. I have always used a bottle jack and placed a piece of wood, or now, a fabricated piece of angle iron, carefully placed on the 2 U-bolts that connect the axle with the leaf springs. I've never seen evidence this has damaged my axle tubes.

However, on this forum and others, there appears to be more frequent reports of leaf springs breaking. This has been pretty uncommon in the past, but I'm guessing this is a result of lower quality suspension components being used throughout the industry. I am now wondering if my using a bottle jack to lift my trailer by essentially putting all the pressure (weight of trailer) on a spring is a good idea??

At most aren’t you are only putting about half the trailer’s weight (less the tongue weight) on the spring in question? This seems pretty much the same as when one tire is flat?


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[fmartinmn]

There have been many discussions on the correct way to lift a trailer for tire changing or maintenance. The manufactures say only lift by placing the jack on the frame. Many have successfully used the Trailer-Aid device. I have always used a bottle jack and placed a piece of wood, or now, a fabricated piece of angle iron, carefully placed on the 2 U-bolts that connect the axle with the leaf springs. I've never seen evidence this has damaged my axle tubes.

However, on this forum and others, there appears to be more frequent reports of leaf springs breaking. This has been pretty uncommon in the past, but I'm guessing this is a result of lower quality suspension components being used throughout the industry. I am now wondering if my using a bottle jack to lift my trailer by essentially putting all the pressure (weight of trailer) on a spring is a good idea??

When I had tires changed on my 2670MK, Discount Tire lifted at the "U" bolt point of the axles and when I had a roadside mobile tech repair my brakes on my 2970RL, he lifted from the same spot.

[WhittleBurner]

When I had tires changed on my 2670MK, Discount Tire lifted at the "U" bolt point of the axles and when I had a roadside mobile tech repair my brakes on my 2970RL, he lifted from the same spot.

​If you have ever been to a rally where Lippert is working on trailers, this is the same spot their techs use.

[BB&LAB]

Keep in mind manufacturer manuals are written as much, if not more by attorneys as engineers. Having said that one does have to be careful. Lifting near the U-Joints as mentioned in previous posts is a common and safe practice. Lifting from the frame certainly is a very safe option, but requires a whole lot more lifting due to the suspension drop.

[Overtaxed]

Well, I'll be the first to say it. I use the hydraulic jacks to lift the trailer. If I'm taking off both tires, I'll back it up with a jack stand, but I can't see how any jack on the planet is safer than the hydraulic system that can easily lift the entire trailer and also is designed to keep it lifted indefinitely. I stopped even carrying a jack big enough for the trailer, can't imagine a reason I'd need to pull both tires at the same time on the road, so just use the hydro, lift up that side, pull one tire, replace it, keep going. I did my ComfortRide install that way too (although, as mentioned, I did use a jack stand that time because I was home and had them right there).

[pilot1]

There have been many discussions on the correct way to lift a trailer for tire changing or maintenance. The manufactures say only lift by placing the jack on the frame. Many have successfully used the Trailer-Aid device. I have always used a bottle jack and placed a piece of wood, or now, a fabricated piece of angle iron, carefully placed on the 2 U-bolts that connect the axle with the leaf springs. I've never seen evidence this has damaged my axle tubes.

However, on this forum and others, there appears to be more frequent reports of leaf springs breaking. This has been pretty uncommon in the past, but I'm guessing this is a result of lower quality suspension components being used throughout the industry. I am now wondering if my using a bottle jack to lift my trailer by essentially putting all the pressure (weight of trailer) on a spring is a good idea??

I asked the same question of my dealer, they told me that use the leveling legs to take the weight off the axle then jack as close to the wheel as you can to keep from bending the axle.

[tgrinch]

I have also lifted from the axle between the U-bolts. After talking to a Lipert "engineer" who warned me of the chance of flattening the tube I made a saddle for my jack to match the diameter of the tube. Never had a problem, but these axles are too light anyway and GD should upgrade them.

[Chewwi]

I have also lifted from the axle between the U-bolts. After talking to a Lipert "engineer" who warned me of the chance of flattening the tube I made a saddle for my jack to match the diameter of the tube. Never had a problem, but these axles are too light anyway and GD should upgrade them.

Seems that using a section of angle iron to contact both ubolts would serve the same purpose and is simpler than fabbing a saddle to match the diameter of the axle and fit between the ubolts.


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