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01-13-2021, 05:04 PM #21
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I line it up and then monitor while the DW finishes backing up to complete the hitching. I raise the front jacks up just clear of the ground and have her do the pull test while I watch it. I don't want to chance bending the legs. I went to pick my camper up from the dealer after some work and they had bent the legs.
2019 F350 Lariat Super Duty 6.7L Diesel SRW 4X4 with puck system
2016 Reflection 337 RLS
Pullrite Superglide
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01-13-2021, 05:44 PM #22
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- Jun 2019
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- Maryland
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It's always interesting to see how other people do things. Here's my procedure.
Set the pin height and back into the trailer. Don't ever have to get out and check because I do it perfectly every time... now back to reality 😁
I never thought of using trailer brakes for hitching so I don't. It should be noted (as some have wondered here) that magnetic drum brakes do nothing in reverse and also require some wheel rotation to work going forward. Electric over hydraulic (disc) brakes will actually lock the wheels as soon as they are applied. To me, all of this means don't bother if you have drum brakes. With disc brakes, I suppose you could use them if you were in some predicament where you needed to push into the hitch. That's a stretch. If you have to push that hard, something is wrong.
I'm also in the camp of "don't have electrical connected if you're not hitched."... disconnect electrical first and connect it last.
And now the "tug test." This is a little off topic, but I hear many stories of people misunderstanding its purpose. I would rather it was called a "yank the s#@t out of it" test. The purpose is to cause the hitch connection to fail (if you can) while the landing gear is in place to catch the trailer. For the above mentioned reasons, don't bother with drum brakes for this. The trailer should be securely chocked. The cheap plastic ones don't count as securely chocked. How many times have people pulled out and crushed them? Nuff said. Landing gear should be and inch or two off the ground to avoid stress on the gear. When all is secure you should PULL the securely chocked trailer (no gentle tugging). You are trying to find out if something is wrong.
With my last hitch I did the PULL test every single time. However, with my current hitch I can see visually that the jaws are closed and the locking mechanism is in place. Short of the hitch actually being broken, there is no way it can release when these parts are engaged.
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01-13-2021, 06:00 PM #23
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- Nov 2019
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- Pacific NW Coast
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I do not use the manual brake control to hitch or unhitch. By locking the brakes you are taking away any "give" that might be needed if something is wrong. With the brakes applied there is no slight movement possible and if you accidently hit the gas a little harder than intended, something will move. It could be the trailer moving a little or maybe bending the kingpin or creating issues with the jaws. Safer to have a little extra room to play with.
2019 29rs
2007 Ram diesel, 4x4 long bed
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01-13-2021, 06:56 PM #24
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- Jan 2019
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- Minnesota
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We've been RVing with a 5th wheel trailer for 11 years now. We have yet to utilize the trailer braking mechanism while hooking up or unhooking. We do use wheel chocks in each direction of the wheels by placing chocks between the two wheels on each side. It is easy to place the chocks in such fashion because they are located almost in the same place. Everything else we do is just like the OP described. We have yet to have an issue with this method. Good luck.
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01-13-2021, 06:59 PM #25
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- Mar 2020
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- Virginia
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I have the Anderson puck hitch so there is no need. I can remove it myself as it weighs 60 - 70 lbs. Raise the front landing gears, pull underneath and drop kingpin onto the ball.
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01-13-2021, 08:56 PM #26
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- Aug 2020
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- West central Montana
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Thats how I do it with my companion also.
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01-13-2021, 09:39 PM #27
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- Mar 2015
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- North Texas
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Texfivver, I too have the B&M companion hitch. On at least one occasion, I was slightly off with my king pin and it knocked the jaws shut but my pin was not in the jaws. It made the satisfying clunk noise and the locking lever was closed. If I had not visually inspected the jaws I would have pulled away and dropped my trailer.
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01-14-2021, 03:15 AM #28
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- Aug 2020
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- Pensacola, FL
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I rely on my chocks, can't help but to be concern about damage. Once I lock down my GD manually with its brakes, it does tend to more.
My chocks offer some forgiveness.2021 Grand Design Reflection 150 295RL
2021 GMC 2500 Denali, Duramax 6.6L, 10 spd Allison transmission
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01-14-2021, 06:38 AM #29
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- Jun 2018
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[QUOTE=Ra&Ta350;341533]Texfivver, I too have the B&M companion hitch. On at least one occasion, I was slightly off with my king pin and it knocked the jaws shut but my pin was not in the jaws. It made the satisfying clunk noise and the locking lever was closed. If I had not visually inspected the jaws I would have pulled away and dropped my trailer.[/QUOTE Ugh that could have been bad. I always take one more look at the jaws after I put the pin in the locking lever just to be sure.
2019 Solitude 375RES Onan 5500 Splendide W/D Samsung res. fridge
2020 Ford F450 Platinum dually 6.7L 4:30 gears
B&W Companion for Ford puck system 20K lbs
Jeff
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01-14-2021, 11:02 AM #30
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I did something like this. I heard the clunk, I swear I visually inspected and saw the teeth clamped, then I did a pull test and the pin came out. I thought maybe I was crazy...sometimes in a rush or the rain things are not always what they seem. Eyesight not always so reliable. Fortunately the rig only dropped an inch or so because I leave the front legs mostly down for the pull test. Otherwise it would have dropped onto the truck bed. I still looked around to see if anyone noticed, tho...
I've just always done a pull test as part of my hookup routine. With every rig, and every hitch. Only takes a few seconds. I leave the chocks down but manually engage the trailer brakes too.
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