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Thread: Which Switch?

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    Which Switch?

    Hi - One of my spring projects is to install a "real" battery cut-off switch. I've seen several folks using these Blue Sea Systems switches but noticed there are several different versions that look similar on Amazon at different price points. Any suggestions? Thanks!

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    I got this one and its working good. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07413JWLD/...ing=UTF8&psc=1

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    You need to know what amps are going through the line.

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    Quote Originally Posted by orbsah View Post
    Hi - One of my spring projects is to install a "real" battery cut-off switch. I've seen several folks using these Blue Sea Systems switches but noticed there are several different versions that look similar on Amazon at different price points. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It depends on where you want to mount it, some attach directly to the battery, some are surface mount (like yours) and others are bulkhead mount. I installed one of these: https://www.princessauto.com/en/100a...t/PA0008618399. I drilled a hole and mounted it in the rear wall of my passenger side propane compartment (fifth wheel), that way I don’t have to open the front compartment to access it.

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    I started using the Blue Sea switches after I broke a cheap Harbor Freight switch (in my defense, it looked to be good quality).

    The various Blue Sea switches have different functions. For example: there is the simple on/off switch, the Battery 1 or Battery 2 switch, then you have a Battery 1 or Battery 2 or Both Battery 1 & 2 switch. There are also variations that are designed to be mounted into a console or dashboard each added function correlates with an increased price.

    I highly recommend the Blue Sea products, although, they are a bit spendy. I used several Blue Sea products in my Solar Install.
    Last edited by SolarPoweredRV; 01-08-2021 at 07:10 PM.
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    Thanks for the comments everyone! On the current draw, I agree this would be useful info - I've never measured it (unit is hibernating now). My electrical system is pretty much stock (no inverter) with no plans to upgrade this year. I suspect the RV fridge + furnace running together would be the worst case. I'm just looking for a simple on/off to stop the parasitic drain between weekend trips. Thanks again! -Jeff
    2021 Solitude 310GK: Linen/DP windows/gen prep/slide toppers/king bed/EOH disc brakes/Cooper-H tires
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    Other stuff: TST 507 TPMS/2x BB batteries/Victron BMV-712/Champion 3500 dual fuel gen/Garmin 780 GPS/22" Blackstone

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    Quote Originally Posted by orbsah View Post
    Thanks for the comments everyone! On the current draw, I agree this would be useful info - I've never measured it (unit is hibernating now). My electrical system is pretty much stock (no inverter) with no plans to upgrade this year. I suspect the RV fridge + furnace running together would be the worst case. I'm just looking for a simple on/off to stop the parasitic drain between weekend trips. Thanks again! -Jeff
    I think the amps are determined by the batteries and the charger...

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    Quote Originally Posted by orbsah View Post
    Hi - One of my spring projects is to install a "real" battery cut-off switch. I've seen several folks using these Blue Sea Systems switches but noticed there are several different versions that look similar on Amazon at different price points. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is the one that I and others have used:

    https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-9001...0206306&sr=8-1

    It's a 350-amp (continuous) rated switch, way more than enough to handle all your OEM electrical needs including the inverter for your residential fridge (if you have one). It's also enough to handle most other inverters you might add later on unless you're going to be heavily taxing them (like trying to run air conditioners on an inverter, which most trailer owners don't do). As a very rough rule of thumb, an inverter will draw about one amp of DC power for every ten watts of AC power it puts out, so your microwave by itself will draw about 150 amps of current from the batteries; quite a lot but not enough to damage the switch.

    You'll see that the switch I linked also supports two batteries or banks in a 1, 2, 1+2, Off configuration. Even if you want only one battery or bank in your setup, there's no harm in having the extra versatility for down-the-road plans.

    Finally, for some reason this model is often less expensive than others in the Blue Sea lineup with similar ratings.

    You are wise to choose Blue Sea despite encouragement from others to buy a cheaper switch. Very high quality. Good luck with your choice.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

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    Quote Originally Posted by orbsah View Post
    Thanks for the comments everyone! On the current draw, I agree this would be useful info - I've never measured it (unit is hibernating now). My electrical system is pretty much stock (no inverter) with no plans to upgrade this year. I suspect the RV fridge + furnace running together would be the worst case. I'm just looking for a simple on/off to stop the parasitic drain between weekend trips. Thanks again! -Jeff
    We have a cut off switch is the basement on the front wall. I also installed a simple on off between the batteries and everything else


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    I am wanting to add this switch to my trailer this weekend. I have two twelve volt batteries in parallel. Any info you have concerning installation would be helpful. Not sure where to connect on my two batteries.

    Kirk
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