Factory solar worth anything?

[RV Sailor]

I would suggest a couple of things.

We chose to install carbon foam AGM batteries made by Firefly Oasis which have very similar advantages as Li without the price and inherent danger Li batteries can create. Many Li ( not Battleborn) have quality control issues, especially in the thickness dividing the electrolytes and are mass produced in China. The Oaisis batteries are heavy like normal AGM but allow you to draw down to 20% or more without damaging the battery. ( this means you need less batteries or have more available ah over regular AGM. ) They also have 3-4 times the cycles built into them 4000 vs 1200 from regular AGM. Oh yeah the Oasis Firefly AGM are only $543.

Which ever system you decide getting a GOOD charger is important. We actually have a Victron Multiples 12/3000/ 120
Charger/ inverter which automatically use our normal 120 volt appliances easily out of the trailer GFI outlets. We have two- 175 solar panels by Newapower. They are N cells and have good diodes to minimize shading issues. They were $175 a piece.
High efficiency of 20-21%. The controller is an MPPT Victron. MPPT is more efficient than the PW controllers Every little bit helps with solar. Installation of the solar panels and controllers is an easy DYI project.

Feel free to PM me.

http://www.emarineinc.com/Firefly-Oa...oup-31-Battery

https://www.amazon.com/exceptional-p.../dp/B078GKKN17

[Always Learning]

rootusrootus,

If you primarily dry camp you need to make sure you understand the power requirments of the new Transend Explore. I think you are asking the right questions. It looks like all the new Explore trailers come with a 8cf 12v fridge. I was looking around the web trying to find out how much power they use and found this link for Furrion.

https://furrion.com/collections/refr...n-refrigerator

The specifications state “Energy Consumption: 1.08kWh per day”. If my calculations are correct, please correct me if wrong, this would be 90AH/day used by the fridge without all of your other DC draws. My recommendation is to find out what fridge they put in the Explore and figure DC requirments using the manufacturer data.

In my opinion 90AH a day for the fridge is substantial. I have 400w solar and two lithium batteries. We spent three months on the Oregon cost this summer at Winchester Bay. August and September there was no problem with having full batteries by early afternoon but as the days got shorter and more fog I was short about 20ah per day from the solar and had to run the generator for a little while.

[rootusrootus]

We chose to install carbon foam AGM batteries made by Firefly Oasis

Thanks for the heads-up, I hadn't heard of that option. Slightly more expensive, but still very close to the same $/Ah of the battery I was considering (the 200Ah lithium from ECPC), but as you say, less volatile.

That sounds like a really sweet setup you have there. I've heard good things about Victron. Pricey, but you get what you pay for. I will look into that multiplus combo unit.

90AH a day for the fridge is substantial

I agree, that's a lot of juice. It makes sense that they would only go with that option along with the solar panel, because a regular lead acid battery would be completely insufficient to support that. But with 165W of solar it might be entirely reasonable for most customers.

My last RV was 90%+ boondocking, only 12V, and only battery (with a generator in case we ran out). I aim to change that with this trailer. I don't necessarily want to go crazy right away, but I'd like to plausibly have 120V power when boondocking, and enough battery to not really worry a lot (within reason) about running out. I doubt we had expensive batteries on the last rig, just garden-variety FLAs so probably on the order of 65-70 Ah. Allowing for 50% of that, we survived a couple nights on 65-70 Ah, and we did have some cold nights where we used the furnace. So my first thought is that 200 Ah ought to be a pretty big upgrade for us. Enough so that I could put in an inverter and allow the use of, say, the microwave once in a while (for a short time at least, like heating up a snack for 30 seconds or a minute).

But, that's only 2.56 kWh, and if half of that is going to be consumed by the fridge (worst case, assuming fully shaded panel), it only leaves 1.5 for everything else. A bit tight when I think about what the mere existence of the inverter will use.

Lots to think about now! Can't wait to have the trailer. According to the dealer it's inbound but 'gone dark' for 26 days, which I presume (but didn't ask) means it's been in transit for a while. Predicted to arrive in a couple weeks more or less. Then, weather permitting, I'll drag it over the mountains and bring it home. Then I get to explore it from end to end to understand the construction, wiring, etc. Can't wait . One of the first things I'm going to do is measure current draws for various things. Lights, appliances, etc. Try to establish a worst case, and then I can finalize my battery plans from there. 200 Ah may be plenty, but I'm feeling greedy.

[Always Learning]

rootusrootus,

You wrote.

“One of the first things I'm going to do is measure current draws for various things.”

For DC check out the Victron BMV-712 battery monitor. It works great. There are also less expensive monitors out there. For AC look at the Kill A Watt monitor. You can plug it into your outlet then plug your appliance into it and it will tell you how much power it uses.

[rootusrootus]

There are also less expensive monitors out there.

Yeah, I was looking at one on Amazon called "AiLi Battery Monitor Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage Current Meter 8-80V 0-100A Auto Car Motor Boat Caravan RV Motorhome" and it's only $41. It was reviewed by Will Prowse (has a youtube channel and runs DIYSolarForum) with really positive results. A little pain to set up since the documentation was written by someone whose first language is definitely not English, but after that it seemed as accurate as a BMV-712. Just no bluetooth.

I'm still pretty tempted by the BMV-712, though, it's not that expensive really, and the bluetooth part would be handy.

[Always Learning]

Yeah, I was looking at one on Amazon called "AiLi Battery Monitor Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage Current Meter 8-80V 0-100A Auto Car Motor Boat Caravan RV Motorhome" and it's only $41. It was reviewed by Will Prowse (has a youtube channel and runs DIYSolarForum) with really positive results. A little pain to set up since the documentation was written by someone whose first language is definitely not English, but after that it seemed as accurate as a BMV-712. Just no bluetooth.

I'm still pretty tempted by the BMV-712, though, it's not that expensive really, and the bluetooth part would be handy.

Bluetooth is the best part. I can watch in real time what is happening from my chair in the trailer or outside.

[SolarPoweredRV]

Bluetooth is the best part. I can watch in real time what is happening from my chair in the trailer or outside.

I second that emotion !!!!

I actually connect to my Victron Solar Charge Controller more than I do the BMV712 Battery Monitor. I like to look at the Solar charge history that is maintained by the Controller.

[rootusrootus]

I second that emotion !!!!

I actually connect to my Victron Solar Charge Controller more than I do the BMV712 Battery Monitor. I like to look at the Solar charge history that is maintained by the Controller.

I'm curious what information is available, if any, on the Furrion controller. It looks like it has a connection to the RV CAN Bus (assuming it's actually connected to anything on the trailer I'm getting), which means there should be some amount of detail available to the right display device able to read it. Makes me wonder if the trailer supports C Bus and if so, if anything else is connected to it. Apparently the protocol supports a number of different metrics, including things like propane tank levels if so equipped. I love gadgets, so I look forward to seeing what options there are.

Edit: Doesn't look like the regular power goes through the Furrion controller, just solar. Sound right? So the battery charges via the converter when plugged into shore power; does the converter have a mode for lithium batteries? Hmmm.

[Always Learning]

Edit: Doesn't look like the regular power goes through the Furrion controller, just solar. Sound right? So the battery charges via the converter when plugged into shore power; does the converter have a mode for lithium batteries? Hmmm.

Yes , normally solar goes to a solar controller then to the battery and shore power goes to the converter then the battery and also powers dc in trailer.
Does the converter have a lithium mode, I would bet not since most people replace their converter with a lithium compatible converter.

When you get your trailer please report back here what you got for a converter and battery.

To find out what converter check the documents that came with the trailer. If you don’t find converter info call Grand Design support with your VIN# and they will be able to tell you, The dealer will provide the battery so unless they have been told to do something different they will give you a standard wet FLA battery. So if GD put in a standard WFCO converter and the dealer put in the standard battery you are good to go for shore power. What about solar? Huntr70 said the Furrion solar controller has three settings, AGM, sealed lead acid and lithium. The question is if the dealer put a FLA battery in the trailer will one of the solar controller settings work for it. If not then a conflict.

A problem I see with the 12v fridge is that people will have to be very aware of there battery charge. If you are plugged in all the time, no problem. If you are dry camping or have the trailer disconnected from shore power it will be important to turn off the fridge or monitor you battery. There has already been one thread in the transend section stating they went dry camping with their transend explor and klled the battery in one day.

[cookinwitdiesel]

A battery monitor would be a good investment. Victron has some great Bluetooth connected options you can monitor from your phone (BMV-712, SmartShunt)

I expect the standard WFCO-9855 converter that GD seems to like. It is a minimum cost product....if you make any investment in batteries, I would replace with a better quality unit (and that battery monitor). I also would not expect great things from dealer installed batteries. Mine were allegedly 140 Ah batteries (2x). I saw realistically about 75-80 Ah of usage before they were at critical voltage. Setting aside $500-$1000 for better batteries will make life much better for your trailer and you in it. I would do AGM or Lithium if making an investment.