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  1. #21
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjbbrewer View Post
    so that would be about a 66mA continuous parasitic drain (0.8W @ 12V).
    That is an unusually-low discharge rate.

    On our trailer we were seeing between 1.6 and 2.4 amps draw with the battery "disconnect" switch turned off. The highest draw occurred in cold temps; I don't know why and when I posted to ask about it none of the knowledgeable people who responded had any more than speculative answers. A popular speculation was that the propane alarm needed more current in cold temps.

    Other people have reported similar near-two-amp draws on their trailers. I didn't record what years / models they were. I don't think anyone else has reported the 2.4 amps I measured on a couple of cold days.

    The "parasitic" draw came from a number of known elements. The hydraulic system, the electric brake system, the radio (!!) and the propane alarm all remained powered when the "disconnect" switch was turned off. While in theory none should require much if any power they do on some trailers, often quite a bit more than on yours if your math is correct. When you put your battery back in, if you have the means to actually measure the current draw it would be interesting to hear of it.

    Maybe GD has reconsidered the things that it leaves powered when the disconnect switch is turned off. IMO and that of others there wasn't much necessity or value in what they did. I can't hook up to my trailer without turning on the batteries to power the jacks and everything else, and I'm not going to turn off the batteries while under tow, so to me the argument for a "disconnect" switch that really does that is pretty good.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  2. #22
    Site Sponsor GeoffnCheri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by orbiker View Post
    Setting the key to ON ( batteries supplying power to trailer )
    Just turn the key to ON and never touch it again, except to make sure it's always on. Remember; if the key is not on, the converter is NOT charging your batteries.
    KEN
    ^^^ This^^^

    The GD installed battery disconnect "on" and "off" is the on/off for the battery, not the disconnect on or off. On and the batteries are on. Off and the batteries are (somewhat) disconnected. The CO2 alarm, trailer brake controller and some other items remain on which results in your parasitic draw. When I store our 5th wheel short term (up to 3/4 weeks) I disconnect the both the positive and negative battery terminal. If storing longer than that, I pull the battery and keep it on a trickle charger at the house.
    Geoff and Cheri
    2011 F250 CC 6.7L
    Firestone Ride Rite Airbags
    Pull Rite 16k SuperGlide
    2018 Reflection 303RLS, Build date 9/2017
    USMC-Retired
    Thin Blue Line - Retired

  3. #23
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    I'm glad I found this forum, and this thread in particular. I just bought a Momentum 350G a little over a week ago, and I have also been trying to figure out what the battery disconnect switch really does. It appears to only disable some interior lighting, but nothing else. And perhaps this switch is the reason I am pretty much underwhelmed with the ability of the dealer installed solar system (190 watt) to keep the batteries charged. I have my inverter switched off, so the fridge is now off.

    So my question is, ... does having the batteries "disconnected" with this switch, by having the key completely removed and dangling on its cord, prevent my solar panel from charging the batteries? I haven't been up on the roof of my Momentum to see if there is snow on the solar panel or not. We got an inch of two of snow on Saturday, when I was messing with the battery disconnect switch, trying to see if it did anything. The snow has melted from my driveway, but I haven't been up on the Momentum's roof to see if the snow is gone there. But after two days the solar system says the batteries are only at 58% charge. They should be 100% if the solar system is charging.

  4. #24
    Long Hauler bertschb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3TVRVr View Post
    We got an inch of two of snow on Saturday, when I was messing with the battery disconnect switch, trying to see if it did anything. The snow has melted from my driveway, but I haven't been up on the Momentum's roof to see if the snow is gone there. But after two days the solar system says the batteries are only at 58% charge. They should be 100% if the solar system is charging.
    Just to make sure - is your solar charge controller turned on? I'm not sure which model you have but with my factory Jaboni solar charger, I have to turn it on to provide power to the batteries. Also, your 190 watt panel won't provide a lot of juice at this time of year even if the panel is clear of snow and skies are clear.

    I'm NOT an expert on solar but I'm guessing with two batteries at 58% charge and a 190 watt panel it could take a few days to fully charge them in ideal conditions in January. I'll let the experts jump in now and give their educated opinions rather than my guess.
    Brian & Kellie
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, FBP, 1,460w solar, 540ah BBGC3, MORryde IS w/disc brakes
    2020 F-350 Platinum SRW Powerstroke Tremor, 60g TF fuel tank, Hensley BD3-F air bag hitch

    Previous setups:
    2019 Solitude 373FB-R, 2019 F-350 Platinum DRW Powerstroke, Hensley BD5 air bag hitch
    2016 Reflection 318RST, 2016 GMC 3500 Denali SRW Duramax, Hensley BD3 air bag hitch

  5. #25
    Site Sponsor orbiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3TVRVr View Post
    I'm glad I found this forum, and this thread in particular. I just bought a Momentum 350G a little over a week ago, and I have also been trying to figure out what the battery disconnect switch really does. It appears to only disable some interior lighting, but nothing else. And perhaps this switch is the reason I am pretty much underwhelmed with the ability of the dealer installed solar system (190 watt) to keep the batteries charged. I have my inverter switched off, so the fridge is now off.

    So my question is, ... does having the batteries "disconnected" with this switch, by having the key completely removed and dangling on its cord, prevent my solar panel from charging the batteries? I haven't been up on the roof of my Momentum to see if there is snow on the solar panel or not. We got an inch of two of snow on Saturday, when I was messing with the battery disconnect switch, trying to see if it did anything. The snow has melted from my driveway, but I haven't been up on the Momentum's roof to see if the snow is gone there. But after two days the solar system says the batteries are only at 58% charge. They should be 100% if the solar system is charging.
    I'm not familiar with the factory solar setup.
    Our solar setup has nothing to do with the battery disconnect. The solar charge goes from the panels to the converter to the batteries.

    I would think if the pavement is snow free so would the panel. Check you settings on the solar controller and see what it says tomorrow. Here in western Oregon the sun is not very far off the horizon, so not much charging is happening.

    "I'm glad I found this forum"
    This forum can save you money and you can learn so much too. It also can "help" you fine all kinds of things to spend your hard earned money too. KEN
    Backpacker and tent camper all my life, including BSA as a kid and adult.
    Motorcycle trips across the USA with a tent - 1978 to Present.
    02-10-2005 - 2002 F350 SWD PSD and 2003 Citation 10'8S mostly for Crater Lake Ski Patrol.
    10-29-2015 - 2016 Grand Design 380TH. It's HUGE compared to a camper.
    10-19-2018 - traded truck for a 2016 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie CC 4 X 4 Long Box.
    03-16-2019 - Traded Momentum for a New 2018 374TH-R Solitude
    FULL TIME RV'er Nov 2021

  6. #26
    Rolling Along jjbbrewer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boyscout View Post
    That is an unusually-low discharge rate.
    I know. I was surprised that the battery wasn't completely dead.

    Quote Originally Posted by boyscout View Post
    When you put your battery back in, if you have the means to actually measure the current draw it would be interesting to hear of it.
    I'll do that. I have a AiLi ammeter coming on Sunday but I don't know if it'll measure that low of a draw. If it doesn't I have some small value resistors, a volt meter, and a calculator.

    To really find out what's happening, I'm planning on disconnecting various battery side components (hydraulics including the circuit breaker, generator, etc.). Once I find the culprit(s) I'll post up here.

    Like you're suggesting, it's starting to seem that the functionality of the battery disconnect switch isn't consistent from model-to-model or year-to-year. Hmmm..
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  7. #27
    Rolling Along jjbbrewer's Avatar
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    After rewiring a substantial part of the 12v power "cabinet" in the front of my rig, installing another DC27 battery, and installing the AiLi ammeter, I wanted to follow up here on what I found.

    Deming said, "Without data you're just another person with an opinion." So I now have data!

    This first "before" photo shows the +12V routing inside the power area as it came from Grand Design.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You can zoom in to read the notations, but basically the power flow was

    battery -> leveler breaker post -> positive bus bar (with a few connections) -> cutoff switch -> coach

    I posted earlier that I didn't think there was anything before the cutoff switch, but I was wrong. I've been able to identify 2 of the "few connections" as the hydraulic leveler power (through the thermal breaker) and the Schwintek slide controller. Both are wired from the factory before the cutoff switch. There are also 4 other wires tied into the positive bus bar (through breakers) that have unswitched power. As of right now, I have no idea what they go to - but I will figure it out.

    Here's the power cabinet inside after I finished showing the extra battery on the right, an added negative bus bar (with black cover) and the ammeter mounted on the positive bus bar cover. I cleaned up the factory wiring a little but kept the connectivity exactly the same.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Besides wanting to understand how all of this works (mostly the battery disconnect), I also wanted to get a profile of my power usage in anticipation of eventually adding solar.

    What I did find relative to this thread is a measure the parasitic drain. It turns out to be a little less than what I calculated before. With everything connected but the battery switch off, here's what my ammeter said --

    Click image for larger version. 

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    If you can't read it in the photo, it says 0.048A or 48mA. So for 1 DC27 battery (90 AH) this would take 78 days to drain it. Since I have 2, it would take about 22 weeks to drain both.

    Whatever is connected to the positive bus isn't drawing much but I will find out what's drawing those 48mA and post back here. I hope this helps somewhat.
    Last edited by jjbbrewer; 04-05-2021 at 01:43 PM.
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  8. #28
    Left The Driveway
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    Thanks for that information.

  9. #29
    Seasoned Camper
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    I think what also gets a lot of new owners in trouble are the dealerships conducting the PDI with the buyers. The young fella that did our PDI was dumb as a box of hammers. I could tell before we even got to the unit that he didn't have a clue.... I specifically asked him about the battery disconnect and he said it disconnected everything...I asked about some of the safety sensors such as the propane sensor and her said that runs on battery....I just chuckled and went about our way to get thru the PDI. I have since determined that there are more things that bypass the disconnect than originally thought. In my trailer, the TPMS, passthru lights and front cap LED lights are all prior to the disconnect....
    Jeff and Debbie
    2021 Imagine 2250RK
    2015 Ram2500 Laramie CC 6.7 Cummins Diesel w/air-ride auto leveling
    USMC Veteran

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