Adding Solar to 399TH that already has Onan 5500 Generator.

[grandseahawk]

Hello all,

I now have have 3 AGM group 31 batteries in Parallel upgraded from the 2 stock group 24 Deep Cycle batteries that were in my 399TH. I do have pre-installed wire track for solar and a 5500 Watt Onan from factory. I added a Positive battery disconnect next to the last AGM battery, since the keyed disconnect in the garage does not turn off everything.

I am looking to add a 300 watt Solar Controller and two 100 watt panels (for now) just to keep us topped off while driving or over-nighting with the propane heater on in freezing temps and for areas I cannot run my Generator... like parked near my house for a weekend. (it's a California thing, people who are not my neighbors, call the police regularly on me in my own neighborhood (no HOA) for parking in front of my house or running the Gen... yes, lots of nuts here)

Anyways... I have not been able to find any online wiring diagrams showing where the wire leads from the Solar Panel Charge Controller (12v output) go other than directly to the batteries. Do the #10 wires from the Solar Charge Controller go directly to the batteries or to the 12v buss (busses) that the Generator/Shoreline Converter and other large 12v wires connect to?

Does the Solar Battery Charge Controller act as a transfer switch to prevent power coming back from that buss when the 12v is being fed from shore power/generator (after they converted it yo 12v)?

I know these are probably rudimentary questions... just trying to wrap my brain around it.

Any advice would be appreciated :-)

[A.Texas.Yankee]

Do the #10 wires from the Solar Charge Controller go directly to the batteries or to the 12v buss (busses) that the Generator/Shoreline Converter and other large 12v wires connect to?

Can't comment on where the wires go from the factory, but I would run to a bus bar if it wasn't instead of directly to the batteries. Cleaner and safer install.

Does the Solar Battery Charge Controller act as a transfer switch to prevent power coming back from that buss when the 12v is being fed from shore power/generator (after they converted it yo 12v)?

It should act as an isolator (more like a "check valve") as where a transfer switch switches between two energy sources (and may also act as an isolator). You will want to verify this with the manufacturer of the charge controller.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

[rrlowen]

Hello all,

I now have have 3 AGM group 31 batteries in Parallel upgraded from the 2 stock group 24 Deep Cycle batteries that were in my 399TH. I do have pre-installed wire track for solar and a 5500 Watt Onan from factory. I added a Positive battery disconnect next to the last AGM battery, since the keyed disconnect in the garage does not turn off everything.

I am looking to add a 300 watt Solar Controller and two 100 watt panels (for now) just to keep us topped off while driving or over-nighting with the propane heater on in freezing temps and for areas I cannot run my Generator... like parked near my house for a weekend. (it's a California thing, people who are not my neighbors, call the police regularly on me in my own neighborhood (no HOA) for parking in front of my house or running the Gen... yes, lots of nuts here)

Anyways... I have not been able to find any online wiring diagrams showing where the wire leads from the Solar Panel Charge Controller (12v output) go other than directly to the batteries. Do the #10 wires from the Solar Charge Controller go directly to the batteries or to the 12v buss (busses) that the Generator/Shoreline Converter and other large 12v wires connect to?

Does the Solar Battery Charge Controller act as a transfer switch to prevent power coming back from that buss when the 12v is being fed from shore power/generator (after they converted it yo 12v)?

I know these are probably rudimentary questions... just trying to wrap my brain around it.

Any advice would be appreciated :-)

On my 303 the solar wiring terminates in the front storage bay, street side. It was not connected to the busses but had enough wire there to easily connect to them. That's the best point of connection. The wires should be marked "solar".

A charge controller will eliminate any possible feedback issues.

[grandseahawk]

Thank you.

I get the gist...

I have ordered a good 100 AMP fuse block to install prior to the buss and ordered a heavy duty buss-bar. I may end up switching out the 2 cheapo looking negative buss bar as well.
Once the charge controller comes, I will look at it closer too.

Next challenge, locating where the solar wires go, or if they go to the roof at all... I see a 3" by 6" raised but shallow plastic box above the rear bathroom on the roof. I will start there...

[rrlowen]

Thank you.

I get the gist...

I have ordered a good 100 AMP fuse block to install prior to the buss and ordered a heavy duty buss-bar. I may end up switching out the 2 cheapo looking negative buss bar as well.
Once the charge controller comes, I will look at it closer too.

Next challenge, locating where the solar wires go, or if they go to the roof at all... I see a 3" by 6" raised but shallow plastic box above the rear bathroom on the roof. I will start there...

That's the box with the solar wires in it. They should have connectors all ready to go.
The factory installed smaller buss bars are OK for small loads. They are fused so if you change them out be sure to include the fuses. I just kept them there and put the larger loads on the new bar. It's a good idea to fuse each connection on the new bar as well.
What is the amp rating of the new batteries?

[grandseahawk]

That's the box with the solar wires in it. They should have connectors all ready to go.
The factory installed smaller buss bars are OK for small loads. They are fused so if you change them out be sure to include the fuses. I just kept them there and put the larger loads on the new bar. It's a good idea to fuse each connection on the new bar as well.
What is the amp rating of the new batteries?

Thank you!

The Batteries I have are Duracell AGM Group 31 (105 AMP hours each)... got a pretty good deal on them $150/ea and manufacture date on 11/2020. I could have probably fit 4 in there, but I'd be a little worried about the heavy weight; @65 pounds each.

The roof (junction) box itself is pretty glued/gummed up. I'm gonna go up and open it up and see how I can connect. If that's it, it's in a perfect location. As for the battery/gen compartment, I guess I need to look around a little more. Nothing is labeled in there. I left the rest of the wiring as is. I will look on the passenger side for the solar wires/fuses/buss which may be hidden by all the hydraulic lines and wires. Ironically, my RV did not come with a main battery fuse, but it looks like the main power line that feeds the hydraulics does have a automatic reset fuse.