2022 261BH 24Volt LiFePO4/Solar/Inverter Install

[df_2112]

After all of the very valuable input, parts gathering, planning, epic blizzard delays and the like I am finally ready to start the install. First off, another thanks in advance to those willing to post and provide input on this setup. It really is beyond words how helpful it is. The pics and layout will is going to look a lot like the install by 'Paul & Deb' in his 2022 22MLE Thread. Super helpful and thanks again for that!

My setup will be a little unusual in that I am going with a 24V system, 206Ah SOK Batteries and I do not have a permanent solar panel install. I am going to have two solar MPPTs and will plug in 3 each (390W total) flexible solar panels into one and/or use my Bluetti portable panels (600W total) for the other. I am not going to rule out a permanent install down the road but with supply availability and our time frame I figured I would just get the bank/inverter installed and plug in charge/solar supplement as able or needed since I already had the panels from another project. I suspect this will generate discussion and I may be making a bit of a misfire with these panels but at least I am starting somewhere.

Here is my parts list:
2 12V 206 amp hr SOK Lithium batteries with Marine housing
3 130W Flexible Solar Panels (390W)
3 200W Bluetti Flexible Solar Panels (600W)
2 Breaker for solar connections
2 Victron Energy (VE) SMartSolar MPPT 100|50 Solar Controller
1 VE Lynx Distributor (busbar)
1 VE Multiplus 24V/3000/70-120 Charger/Inverter
1 VE SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor (Bluetooth)
2 VE Battery Cutoff Switch
1 VE Orion 24/12/70a Converter
1 VE Interface MK3-USB (VE.Bus to USB)
1 VE Victron Energy VE.Bus Smart Dongle (Bluetooth)
1 VE Cerbo GX Control/Monitoring Unit
1 Blue Sea Systems-5503 ANL 35A to 750A Fuse Block with Insulating Cover, 7.0'' x 2.0''

As I noted previously I would like this to be somewhat non-permanent as we are likely to upgrade to a 5th wheel in the future and I would like to be able to simplify the move if I can.

I snapped a few pics of the first steps in the process. After I cleaned out the pass through :<( I cut a piece of 5/8 Sanded plywood to anchor everything to.



The access to below the trailer is on the right of the image. I took down the little 'bulkhead' that GD had to guard the back of the water and electric access as I allowed me an extra 8 inches or so of access and I can always add something back in there as needed.

I pulled the panel and took it into the heated garage to layout everything. Any experience/input would on this would be appreciated.



I haven't attached anything as of yet. I will attach the hanger bar for the inverter and hand the inverter once the board is in. The batteries will go in front of the squares on the left where the ruler is sitting, terminals to the left so I can reach them from the pass through door on that side. I am going to use 1/0 Welding Cable for the battery, base connections to the inverter etc. 6AWG for the DC installation as that is what they had on hand at the local supply shop. I will use two MC4 solar connector glands to connect the panels.

It is still in the 30s here and I am moving rather slowly so if anyone has any thoughts or input I am all ears. I am sure I will encounter snags along the way but will try to do my best to post progress here in case this would be useful to others down the road...

[Ynot4me2]

Definitely following.

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[Soundsailor]

Working on my own build so this is very timely. I also am planning on portable arrays of flexible panels since we camp in the woods a lot where it is VERY helpful to be able to move the panels during the day to follow the sun. My budget didn't allow for all Victron, but my parts list is pretty similar function-wise. I'm wondering if you might not be better off using a 4|0 cable for the batteries, a 3,000-watt inverter can draw a lot.

[df_2112]

I'm wondering if you might not be better off using a 4|0 cable for the batteries, a 3,000-watt inverter can draw a lot.

Yes, the inverter certainly is capable of unloading the current pretty quickly. I am going with the 24V system so 150A will be the absolute upper limit that I would want the inverter to draw, in fact I plan on limiting it through the victron. I fused the line at 150A, SOK advises keeping the draw to 3000W even though they can spike a lot higher than that. The only time I could see that happening on this rig is if we were trying to run the overhead AC/fan and the microwave or something at the same time. Possibly the microwave and the coffee pot? Otherwise we have a soft start on the AC and I am not even sure we will make much of an attempt to run it. Given the DC charts I looked over 1AWG would have been sufficient at our anticipated loads and limits. 1/0 was the best available high quality cable with proper lugs etc I could get in my time frame..

[Ynot4me2]

Yes, the inverter certainly is capable of unloading the current pretty quickly. I am going with the 24V system so 150A will be the absolute upper limit that I would want the inverter to draw, in fact I plan on limiting it through the victron. I fused the line at 150A, SOK advises keeping the draw to 3000W even though they can spike a lot higher than that. The only time I could see that happening on this rig is if we were trying to run the overhead AC/fan and the microwave or something at the same time. Possibly the microwave and the coffee pot? Otherwise we have a soft start on the AC and I am not even sure we will make much of an attempt to run it. Given the DC charts I looked over 1AWG would have been sufficient at our anticipated loads and limits. 1/0 was the best available high quality cable with proper lugs etc I could get in my time frame..

That's 1 of the advantages of a 24v system over a 12v system is smaller gauge size. I'll be stating off with 1 12v battery. If I go with 2 down the road, I think I'll go 24v also.

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[Soundsailor]

Yes, the inverter certainly is capable of unloading the current pretty quickly. I am going with the 24V system so 150A will be the absolute upper limit that I would want the inverter to draw, in fact I plan on limiting it through the victron. I fused the line at 150A, SOK advises keeping the draw to 3000W even though they can spike a lot higher than that. The only time I could see that happening on this rig is if we were trying to run the overhead AC/fan and the microwave or something at the same time. Possibly the microwave and the coffee pot? Otherwise we have a soft start on the AC and I am not even sure we will make much of an attempt to run it. Given the DC charts I looked over 1AWG would have been sufficient at our anticipated loads and limits. 1/0 was the best available high quality cable with proper lugs etc I could get in my time frame..

Forgot you were going with a 24-volt system.

[df_2112]

Has been a busy week, between a plugged sink, tearing the walls apart to fix the drain once and for all and a late season blizzard here in western North Dakota I have made some slow but steady progress. There are several great ongoing threads about installs of varying types and components. That's awesome! Kudos to all willing to share and take the time to post.

I figure I would post a few pics where I left off. I started to mount the components to the board. The Multiplus is the heaviest part aside from the batteries so I want to be able to separate those and install them once the board is in the pass through. To mount the Multiplus I was a little worried about the weight vs the tiny screws and 5/8 plywood I am using as the backer. I decided to use 1/4 T nuts and machine screws. I attached the interlocking hanger plate the came with the multiplus with 3 of the T nuts. Nice and sturdy. Few pics of that.



Forgive the extra mounting line mess. It was to mark the top of the bracket and it slid when I marked the first line. Pic of the T nuts and countersinks on the back of the panel to allow for a flush mount. I was able to crank down on the machine screws and get a very nice secure attachment. Much better than using say #10 half inch wood screws.

[df_2112]

Few pics of the wiring process. I chose to order the stuff to make my own cable rather than order premade. I was a little worried as I was new to making these types of cables but all in all I am very happy I did. Once I sorted out a few gremlins I was able to make each cable the exact length. I was surprised that even an extra inch or so in length made lining up the cables on the board a bigger challenge. Trying to make an effort to keep things 'clean'.

Few Key Notes: I used a TEMCo TH0012 crimper. (Blurry in the background of the first pic) The setting scale on the side for each cable gauge is wrong. I made the first crimp with the scale setting and I was able to pull the lug off. I decreased the setting to get a nice tight crimp and shaping to the rear of the lug and now they are skookum.



Quick pic of the wire, lugs and stripped cable. I used lugs from WindyNation on amazon and they are very high quality, thick copper compared to the ones they had here at he local auto parts and hardware store..Cable was
from Wire and Cable Your Way in Texas. Took a while to get here but great price, very high quality and thick casing.

I shot a quick video while crimping one of the lugs, can post that here if anyone might find it useful AND I can figure out how to upload a video.

[df_2112]

First item was wiring the Victron switch to the Lynx Distributor.



Note: The Lynx has a 5/16" post, the Victron switches has 3/8" posts on the back. I ended up just drilling the 5/16" lug to 3/8" rather than delay getting more lugs.

[df_2112]

I proceeded to mount and wire the base components. Once I got going it went fairly smoothly.



Through the magic of television here is progress thus far. Most of the base components are fixed to the board and wired in.

NOTE: The terminals on the smart shunt are also 3/8" again I just drilled the lugs I had. The ground posts on the MPPTs and the posts on the Victron Orion 24/12 converter are 1/4"(Not shown, will be mounted off of the board to the right just above the access hole in the pass through). Make sure to have a selection of lugs for your wiring will be helpful if you go that route. If you order premade cables you will want your components in-hand before ordering cables.

Next will be to connect the Cerbo Gx and communication cables