Triple Axle brakes and drums

[ClowcColorado]

Have our 376th for 3 years and maybe close to 10k on it brought it in for the warranty work on the microwave recall and had them check the breaks and tires they called and said the pads are worn out and left groove in the drums ask had to be replaced $1800.00 dollars trying to understand how they can go bad in less than 10k have f350 dually 6.7 power stroke with engine break aways when I pull .. does this sound right. Feel someone is trying to take advantage of me or could they be gone that quick in three years and is that normal price.

[FT4NOW]

Doesnt sound right at all. I had well over 15k on my Momentum, also triple axle, and the pads were not worn down. I'd ask for photos or to see the damage they claim. Maybe your brakes were set too tight for the initial adjustment or the gain was too high.

New assemblies are less than $100 per wheel, not sure on hub pricing, check etrailer, they sell it all.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[CoChris]

Have our 376th for 3 years and maybe close to 10k on it brought it in for the warranty work on the microwave recall and had them check the breaks and tires they called and said the pads are worn out and left groove in the drums ask had to be replaced $1800.00 dollars trying to understand how they can go bad in less than 10k have f350 dually 6.7 power stroke with engine break aways when I pull .. does this sound right. Feel someone is trying to take advantage of me or could they be gone that quick in three years and is that normal price.

I agree with @FT4NOW this does not sound right. Have you every had the bearings repacked (should have pulled the drums them) and/or had the brakes inspected before? What was the result? I would certainly require good pictures of the worn out pads and the drums. Were the brake assemblies damaged (not holding the brake shoes correctly) or other cause? If all brakes were worn out the same, I doubt it would be from damage. Do you have a diesel and use the exhaust brake when towing?

I have a double axle Solitude 310GK (typically about 11k# on the axles) and I run at a fairly high setting on the trailer brake controller. The last time I pulled the drums and checked the friction material and surfaces they were all good (between 0.170 to .210" of friction material (not including the backing) left). This was after 3 years of use and a little over 11k miles. The caveat is I pull, check and adjust the brakes (while inspecting and repacking the bearings) every year myself. I set the brake up so the wheel will spin multiple revolutions by hand without brakes applied (so little drag) and will still hold when retorquing the wheels (110 ft-#). This is cold and with the break away switch pulled.

Chris

[JCR GD]

Yup, doesn't sound right. Definitely get some pics.

[ClowcColorado]

These are pictures they sent me not an expert but they do look worn hard to tell for me.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xjsdsnb85...a_I7gFuLa?dl=0

[LV Naturist]

These are pictures they sent me not an expert but they do look worn hard to tell for me.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xjsdsnb85...a_I7gFuLa?dl=0

Bottom line those shoes look cooked (as in excessive heat) and need to be replaced. It also looks like at least one of your inner wheel seals was leaking and contaminated the shoes and magnet. From the pictures, the drums/hubs could be serviceable if they were trued on a brake lathe, but nobody seems to do that anymore. Takes too much time and they don't want any potential liability.

Price wise, you'd have to look up the parts cost for both drums/hubs, wheel seals and possibly bearings (they would need to be cleaned and inspected prior to reuse), and brake assembly, times six. Then include labor at typically $120 per hour (I'd guesstimate 4 to 6 hours labor).

Just for reference, when I set my brake controller, I try to balance the truck and trailer. Optimally, I don't want the truck to feel like it's being pushed by the trailer (not enough gain), nor do I want to feel like the trailer is stopping the truck (too much gain). It should feel like it's stopping like one cohesive mass. Too much gain will overheat the trailer brakes and lead to premature service.

John

[el Rojo]

I agree with John above. But I will add...Before you spend the money to replace the drums get disc brakes.

My 2 cents worth.

Red

[tamrick]

Have our 376th for 3 years and maybe close to 10k on it brought it in for the warranty work on the microwave recall and had them check the breaks and tires they called and said the pads are worn out and left groove in the drums ask had to be replaced $1800.00 dollars trying to understand how they can go bad in less than 10k have f350 dually 6.7 power stroke with engine break aways when I pull .. does this sound right. Feel someone is trying to take advantage of me or could they be gone that quick in three years and is that normal price.

Leaking grease seals and bad drum brakes. Not sure what caused the shoes to lose bits of the material but to me, it looks like the shoe was bad. The cost of repair they quote should pay for all the disc brake parts required for a conversion. I also recommend changing over to disc brakes. It is a night and day difference with stopping power.

[Just Krusen]

New brake assemblies are a little under $100 ea. Drums are another $100 ea. So there is about $1200 in parts alone for a 3 axle trailer. I'm thinking they were fair with you at $1800.

[jjbbrewer]

I also recommend changing over to disc brakes. It is a night and day difference with stopping power.

No question about it. If you're replacing a bunch of drum brake parts, just throw them all in the recycle bin and get a disc brake conversion.
Not only does it work far better than a crappy magnetic drum system, it's FAR easier to maintain. Pad swaps are super easy.

Here's where I got most of my parts - https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=...Conversion+Kit