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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobKilmer View Post
    After seeing your question I checked and I realize now I have been over torquing the coupler tube bolts. I have been going to 60 foot pounds versus the 40 in the spec. I ordered a new coupler tube and will make sure to stay at 40 foot pounds. Hopefully that solves the coupler issue.

    I am still completely puzzled by the wear on the gooseneck ball. I am wondering if the dealer put a worn ball in when I bought the hitch. I paid for a new one, but the only way I can see that type of wear happening is if the ball had previously been installed in a different application. I purchased the Andersen Bed Shaft so I won’t know for sure if it wears differently now.
    Have had my Andersen ( gooseneck style) for two years on my 310gk. Love it! The top bolt is 60 lbs torque. DO NOT DEVIATE FROM THAT. It’s a safety issue. Always torque the top bolt first. The side bolts are 40 lbs, as well as the Allen screws on the ball receiver. The 60 lbs torque sucks the coupler tube firmly on the gooseneck ball. There should be NO play there. If there is you could be looking at a disastrous incident. I have a Curtis goose neck ball assembly. Absolutely no wear as in your pics.
    The coupler tube is another issue. That should not be happening. Andersen is real good at addressing these sort of issues. At one time they even overnight mailed me an entire ball receiver assembly over a minor issue with the original one. Good luck. Let us know how things work out.

  2. #22
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    I purchased AUH in the Fall and taking delivery of our 5th wheel in April so haven't used them yet. Manufacturer specifically states coupler need no grease.

  3. #23
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobKilmer View Post
    Hi,
    I removed my AUH today and noticed some unexpected wear on both the Curt gooseneck ball and the Andersen coupler tube. Of the two, the coupler tube is a far bigger concern.

    Below is a picture of the coupler tube: Attachment 32148

    The coupler bolts have worn about 2/3 of the way through the coupler tube. The indentations from the coupler bolts into the coupler tube are about 0.15" deep and the material for the tube is only 0.22" thick. I am wondering if other users of the AUH have seen this type of wear as well.

    The lesser concern, and maybe more of a curiosity, is the wear on the Curt gooseneck ball. Below is a picture of the ball. Attachment 32149 I am really surprised to see so much wear on the ball due to the way the hitch connects to the ball. The only point that the hitch connects to the ball is through the pin in the coupler tube, which is only at one point on the ball. I would have expected there to just be wear at a few spots on the ball, not all across the surface as shown in the picture. It looks like the coupler pin is wearing the entire surface, which could only happen if the coupler pin is moving up and down and across the ball. I can't see how this can happen, but it definitely is wearing somehow. I am curious if this same wear is seen by other AUH users as well.

    I have contacted Andersen about the coupler tube to get their feedback and ordered a new coupler tube as well. I planned to go on my first trip of 2021 on Sunday but those plans may be on hold until I get the new coupler. Any feedback from AUH users on their experiences will be greatly appreciated!

    Bob
    I've had the AUH FT over a year and have not had the issues you point out. Thank you for sharing though. The only situation I've seen come up with the AUH is at a campground in Durango Col. A guy 2 campsites up bought a new 5th Wheel one day. He came back that afternoon with the new 5th wheel and the AUH was all twisted up and would not uncouple from the 5th wheel/truck ball. When he raised the 5th wheel it pulled his truck bed up. I took a hammer and heavy duty screw driver and punched the top ball "lock pin" out and that released the VUH top ball from the 5th wheel king pin VUH adaptor. Problem solved. The culprit was that when the VUH was dealer installed the new VUH that day the top bolt on the VUH hitch (60 lb torque) was never torqued correctly. The lower two 40-50 lb torque bolts were also not tight. IMO the dealer service guys did not quality/safety check the 3 bolts. I could move them with my fingers. In addition the 4 40 lb torque bolts on the VUH kingpin adapter were loose. This had also shifted a little. All this due to poor install. The guy is lucky the 5th wheel did not come loose while coming to the RV Park. I reattached (correctly) the kingpin VUH adapter and VUH bed hitch and he said all was fine later when he changed campsites. He gave me a fifth of Bear Creek Bourbon for my time (now gone). It looks like to me in your case that proper torque was not maintained and "slack" was in the connection system. This can easily lead to abnormal wear and tear. I torque my top bolt on the VUH first at 60 lb, then my two side bolts at 50 lb. The kingpin adapter 4 bolts are at 40 lb torque. Make sure the slide pin that goes under the top ball is "tight to the cable". Mine was loose when shipped. The only other thing I can think of is way over torque on the VUH bolts. Way over torque. More likely it is slack in the total system and someone having to over torque to try and fix it. All this IMO. Benny
    RV: 2020 Solitude 310GK - FB Paint, 300W Solar, Onan 5500 Gen, DP Windows, Samsung R-Frig, Splendide Stacked W/D.
    Tow Vehicle: 2020 3500 Silverado, DRW, HC Pkg., D-Max 6.6L Diesel, 10 Spd. Allison Trans.
    Hitch: Andersen 3220 Ult 2 With Safety Chain Package.
    Satellite: Winegard Pathway X2/Wally Rec. RV Tow Camera Rear: Furrion Sharkfin 7" Monitor.
    Autoformer/Surge Protect: Hughes 50 AMP

  4. #24
    Seasoned Camper MooManChu's Avatar
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    Lots of great advice here. First thing I saw was deformity from over torque. Also. Didn’t see the comment in Any of the lengthy responses regarding tightening the lock bolts only under load.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2020 Grand Design Momentum 320G
    2017 Ford F350 King Ranch 6.7 PSD Super Duty

  5. #25
    Left The Driveway
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    Bob, I might have an explanation that applies to you. I have had my hitch for a few years with no problems. Release cable broke recently and I replaced it while the RV was at the repair shop. The shop had to have me remove the Anderson from the RV as they only had the ability to attach to a regular hockey puke 5th wheel hitch to be able to move it. Upon picking up the RV, I reinstalled the Anderson and headed down the road. About 100 miles later I tried to unhitch the 5ver and the unit would not lift off the ball as the cable was binding and would not release. After a great deal of attempts with no luck I raised the 5ver using the front legs until the truck unloaded and raised slightly. Jumping up and down in the bed caused the disconnect to occur. I then noticed the 4 set screws holding the block on to the receiver were not tight letting the aluminum block to be able to twist and move which of course it is not supposed to do. Inspecting the inside of the aluminum block I saw some aluminum particles inside the receiver and causing the slide bar to be stuck. I had to lub the slide and work it until I could get a screwdriver behind the slide and force it out of the block. Using some sandpaper and smail files I cleaned up the unit and put it back together and verified it works. I them saw that the ball have some nicks and scrapes on it that were not previously there and I smoothed them out with the files, etc. I inspected everything else and came to the conclusion that the problem was caused by the 4 set screws becoming loose which allowed the block to be able to move around and causing wear. Lesson learned, verify the set screws are torqued along with the 3 bolts on the frame.

  6. #26
    Site Sponsor Jerryr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobKilmer View Post
    After seeing your question I checked and I realize now I have been over torquing the coupler tube bolts. I have been going to 60 foot pounds versus the 40 in the spec. I ordered a new coupler tube and will make sure to stay at 40 foot pounds. Hopefully that solves the coupler issue.

    I am still completely puzzled by the wear on the gooseneck ball. I am wondering if the dealer put a worn ball in when I bought the hitch. I paid for a new one, but the only way I can see that type of wear happening is if the ball had previously been installed in a different application. I purchased the Andersen Bed Shaft so I won’t know for sure if it wears differently now.
    Interesting that Andersen now recommends all 3 bolts torqued to 60 ft-lbs. See section 2 of installation instructions.

    http://download1412.mediafire.com/it...20_Low+Res.pdf

    I always set side coupler bolts finger tight, set the top bolt to 60 ft-lbs, mount the trailer and reset the top bolt to 60 ft-lbs again with the trailer weight on the hitch. Then I torque the 2 coupler bolts to 40 ft-lbs. I’ve never had an issue so I’ll keep the same procedure.

    Last edited by Jerryr; 02-20-2021 at 11:21 PM.
    Jerry & Linda
    Emma & Abby our Mini Golden Doodles & JR our Amazon Parrot
    2017 Reflection 337RLS, Build Date 01/2017, Titan Disk Brakes, Goodyear G614s 235/85/16 G Rated tires
    2022 F-450 King Ranch Ultimate, 4,868 lb Payload, Bedrug Bedliner, Andersen Ultimate II Aluminum 5th wheel hitch
    http://visitedstatesmap.com/image/FLGANCSCsm.jpg

  7. #27
    Fireside Member DragonDriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobKilmer View Post
    After seeing your question I checked and I realize now I have been over torquing the coupler tube bolts. I have been going to 60 foot pounds versus the 40 in the spec. I ordered a new coupler tube and will make sure to stay at 40 foot pounds. Hopefully that solves the coupler issue.

    I am still completely puzzled by the wear on the gooseneck ball. I am wondering if the dealer put a worn ball in when I bought the hitch. I paid for a new one, but the only way I can see that type of wear happening is if the ball had previously been installed in a different application. I purchased the Andersen Bed Shaft so I won’t know for sure if it wears differently now.
    Sorry to hear about your issues ... I'm the biggest cause of problems just when say something like, "No, dear, I don't hafta look at the instructions - I've been doing this for years."
    On the ball hitch, maybe you were "under-torquing" the top top, allowing the tube to turn during maneuvers?? Just a guess ... I haven't seen anything like that either.
    Pam and Doug
    2017 F350 (the Dragon) with 2015 GD Ref 337RLS (the Dragon's Tail)

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by DragonDriver View Post
    Sorry to hear about your issues ... I'm the biggest cause of problems just when say something like, "No, dear, I don't hafta look at the instructions - I've been doing this for years."
    On the ball hitch, maybe you were "under-torquing" the top top, allowing the tube to turn during maneuvers?? Just a guess ... I haven't seen anything like that either.
    Any time your other half says something like that, you are jinxed! "Is the front door locked?" Yes, I locked it three times, but I'll get up and go check. "Did you unplug the toaster?" ... turn around and check, although you just know you did. "Weren't you supposed to turn left?"... better pull over and check.
    John Wood and Pat Shackelford
    Corpus Christi, Texas
    2016 F250 KR FX4
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    2020 Grand Design Imagine 3000QB
    2 Australian Shepherds and looking forward to retirement...

  9. #29
    Left The Driveway
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    One thing to check.
    Insert the square ball tube into the main frame. Push it All The Way Inside to where it hits the top of the main frame socket. You can also screw in the top bolt that torques to 60 ft lb. Now part of the ball square tube will be showing at the bottom. Make a referance mark with a sharpie at the bottom edge of the main hitch frame.
    Now, mount the truck ball in the bed socket and then mount the entire Andersen hitch, but loosen the top bolt, insert the ball cross pin. Right now you should still see your reference mark below the main frame. Now, while watching your reference mark, start tightening the top bolt until the ball cross pin gets loaded tight on the ball.
    Now, that reference mark should Still be below the bottom of the main frame square tube. Try to make the entire hitch frame move by kicking it. If it moves fairly easily, that is telling you that the ball tube is hitting the top of the main frame square tube and not fully loading/locking onto the truck ball & ball pin.
    My tube was just hitting inside when I tightened the top bolt and not fully loading up on the ball. I laid a 1/2" thick of hard rubber belting. That raises the main frame up 1/2" so now there is about 1/2" of clearance before the ball tube hits inside the top after I torque the top bolt and now fully loaded on the truck ball and hitch pin.

  10. #30
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