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  1. #1
    Seasoned Camper chemist308's Avatar
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    Component Sizing for 600AH Lithium

    I'm getting the components for a 600 amp hour LiFePO4 parallel battery bank install with a 12V 4000 Watt Giandel inverter. I need some help sizing other components. Specifically, how large of a shunt will I need for my battery monitor? Also, how large of a catastrophic fuse will I need? It may help to know that my inverter will have a 4000 watt nominal and a 8000 watt surge capacity.

    My install will be done in 2 phases. Phase 1 will be the setup of a battery bank and inverter system. If you want to critique any other sizing as it related to the battery bank, so far I am planning to use:

    • 3 x 200AH LiFePO4 batteries (Ampere time)
    • 1 4000W Pure Sine Inverter (Giandel)
    • 1 TRC 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch
    • 1 Progressive Dynamics 50 Amp Lithium Battery Charger
    • 1 BONATECH 600A 12V-48V High Current Battery Switch
    • 1 bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter
    • 1 shunt (will I need a 500 amp or will a smaller one work?)
    • 1 catastrophic fuse (will 500 amp work here or should I go higher given the inverter and battery bank?)
    • 2 AWG Gauge Wire
    • 4 AWG Gauge Wire
    2018 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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    old: 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by chemist308 View Post
    I'm getting the components for a 600 amp hour LiFePO4 parallel battery bank install with a 12V 4000 Watt Giandel inverter. I need some help sizing other components. Specifically, how large of a shunt will I need for my battery monitor? Also, how large of a catastrophic fuse will I need? It may help to know that my inverter will have a 4000 watt nominal and a 8000 watt surge capacity.

    My install will be done in 2 phases. Phase 1 will be the setup of a battery bank and inverter system. If you want to critique any other sizing as it related to the battery bank, so far I am planning to use:

    • 3 x 200AH LiFePO4 batteries (Ampere time)
    • 1 4000W Pure Sine Inverter (Giandel)
    • 1 TRC 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch
    • 1 Progressive Dynamics 50 Amp Lithium Battery Charger
    • 1 BONATECH 600A 12V-48V High Current Battery Switch
    • 1 bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter
    • 1 shunt (will I need a 500 amp or will a smaller one work?)
    • 1 catastrophic fuse (will 500 amp work here or should I go higher given the inverter and battery bank?)
    • 2 AWG Gauge Wire
    • 4 AWG Gauge Wire
    For battery wiring and wire to your inverter you will need 4/0 not 4awg or bigger. I also would use the 4/0 to wire the battery's in parallel. Look at your inverter specifications for fuse sizing and wire sizing to it. My 3000 watt Go Power says to use 400 amp fuse and 4/0 wire. Your probably in 600 amp fuse range or more.
    Here is a handy link with wire sizing chart.
    https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437

    Hope this helps
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 6.0 Diesel King Ranch dually, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus and Solar

  3. #3
    Seasoned Camper chemist308's Avatar
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    Thanks @powerscol for the tip on the 4/0 wire. You're probably right about the fuse. Finding a 600 amp 12 volt is a bit of a challenge--they're all rated at 32. At the worst, I might have try the 500, since it would take drawing about 7000 watts at 14V to blow it. I'll keep looking for a 12V 600amp fuse. I didn't see it called out in the inverter manual. But one question still I have is how to size the shunt for a battery monitor.
    2018 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
    2019 Ram 3500 DRW
    old: 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD
    https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7803/4...56f2161a_m.jpg

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by chemist308 View Post
    Thanks @powerscol for the tip on the 4/0 wire. You're probably right about the fuse. Finding a 600 amp 12 volt is a bit of a challenge--they're all rated at 32. At the worst, I might have try the 500, since it would take drawing about 7000 watts at 14V to blow it. I'll keep looking for a 12V 600amp fuse. I didn't see it called out in the inverter manual. But one question still I have is how to size the shunt for a battery monitor.
    Any supplier of inverters and solar stores will have what you need https://www.continuousresources.com/ https://invertersrus.com/

    Both of these places have great customer service and can set up up with what you need. Ask about he fuse being 12V as I don't think it needs to be.
    There is also a good Solar forum on the GD site, and a solar page for GD folks on Facebook.

    As for the battery monitor email the meter manufacturer to see what they recommend. However I know the folks at https://www.continuousresources.com/ can answer your question. I am not an expert by any means. BTW - what inverter are you using?

    On edit - Is it this one? https://www.giandel.com.au/product/g...s-4000qar-12v/ It supposedly comes with battery cables. I would contact them to find out what fuse to use. I'm surprised they don't post their user or install manuals. Makes me wonder.

    Second edit - Found the user manual and I am not thrilled. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1j4dKFa7lL.pdf Page 4 (2. connect to battery) indicates they are using 1/0 wire and want a 400 amp fuse for a 4000W inverter. That must be some magical wire. Its 1M long. An whoever wrote the manual, English is not one of their strong points as its tough to read and understand. Here is an example

    Notice: (1) The table above is only for your reference. In practice, the thick wire can be replaced by two thin parallel wires if only the total cross-sectional area of the wire meets the requirements.(2) In high current, the input DC wire may produce voltage drop, therefore, the operatingvoltage should be subject to the value on the terminals. If the voltage drop is too large, youcan increase the cross-sectional area or reduce the length of the lead.(3) Connect cathode wire of the battery to the cathode terminal (black) on the rear panel of inverter and then connect the anode wire of the battery to the anode terminal (red) on the inverter, and fix them


    I strongly advise talking to an expert before proceeding. You should never ever do what recommended in note (1)
    Hope this helps
    Last edited by powerscol; 02-27-2021 at 10:23 AM.
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 6.0 Diesel King Ranch dually, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus and Solar

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by chemist308 View Post
    Thanks @powerscol for the tip on the 4/0 wire. You're probably right about the fuse. Finding a 600 amp 12 volt is a bit of a challenge--they're all rated at 32. At the worst, I might have try the 500, since it would take drawing about 7000 watts at 14V to blow it. I'll keep looking for a 12V 600amp fuse. I didn't see it called out in the inverter manual. But one question still I have is how to size the shunt for a battery monitor.
    On the fuse voltage rating, you can go higher than needed without any problem. If you have a 12V system (typically charges up to 14.6V) you can use any fuse rated above 15V. 32V, 50V, 500V would be just fine, maybe overkill and cost a little more, but it will work fine. Please note that this is for fuse voltage rating and does not apply to the current rating. The current should be just a little higher than your maximum expected current and should not exceed the current rating of your wire(s).

    Chris
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
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