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Thread: What could this hurt?
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03-06-2021, 03:10 PM #21
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This is essentially a direct swap for my 35A on the 21bhe. I believe it is made by the same company, just rebranded for etrailer.com. It has lithium charge capabilities. I would imagine if you can take the old out, you should have no trouble putting new back in. Not a bad price either. If youre going to spend hundreds on a battery, why not through in the extra $150 to get full cababiities.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Converte...s/PD4135K.htmlLast edited by rmaly76; 03-06-2021 at 03:13 PM.
-Rob M
2021 Imagine XLS 21BHE "Wanda Travelmor"
Everything we wanted in a trailer, nothing we didn't.
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03-06-2021, 03:13 PM #22
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1st 5er- 2006 titanium 32/37. current 5er-2021 Solitude 310GKR
1st camper-2001 Lance slide in
1st truck-2001 chevy silverado 2500 HD 8.1 vortec-Allison trans. current truck-2011 chevy silverado HD duramax, allison LTZ
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03-06-2021, 04:11 PM #23
Time to start reading and educating yourself of electrical power or your spend mire than you have too or potentially mismatch components. Plus added you be able to trouble shoot effectively with knowledge , and that will come in handy and again prevent you from being taken advantage of or be able to fix something simple.
It’s not rocket science and easy to read .
To answer your question in general terms, there are some components of the trailer which are 110 ( shorepower) and others which are DV ( 12 volt) . You can read your manuals to figure which appliances are which.
To run 12 volt you need sufficient battery capacity. Much less if you are hooked to shorepower as it’s recharging the battery as you are removing the power. Batteries are charged by 1- a very cheap suspect converter supplied by GD, though shore power , 2 - solar panels, 3- generator ( external or built in ) . Also a little by your truck through the 7 pin but not enough to count usually.
Batteries are something you should read on and their care and upkeep. There are a few kinds of lead. And then lithium . Read , read read on this as you can spend many thousands and mismatch charging and destroy them . Remember I said you converter is cheap and really ineffective. In lead batteries you MUST have a three stage charger or risk burning them up. Read read read. Get a real charger. Get a good one, it’s worth it.
So to the guts of your question you can run everything off your batteries save the air conditioner, even if it has a plug. DC battery power can be converted to AC 110 power through an inverter. You can buy a simple inverter with a 110 outlet or you can make every outlet on your trailer capable of running off the batteries with a robust converter.
So we have an interesting charger/ inverter. It automatically switches EVERY outlet from AC to the batter generated AC. It’s a 3000 watt inverter . All you equipment has watt info. You can’t go over the 3000 but quite frankly that would take a lot as we have a lot. That same inverter charger is a robust 120 amp 4 stage charger. It charges our batteries very quickly . And like I mentioned has an automatic transfer switch as opposed to doing it manually. It also has some other cool features. Price $1200. As cheap as the components bought individually. Maker : Victron . A well know great company. I have a 35 ft sailboat also and use the same company as do many boater ( Victron) . You get what you pay for so don’t cheap out here.
To use this kind of inverter / charger you need sufficient battery power. That’s an investment too. But really get educated here. Lithium is very expensive. There are cheap knock of Costco’s or Chinese but they have issues . Again you get what you put sy for. Go for a reliable company. Personally I don’t have lithium. Not against it I just like what we use. Firefly Oasis Carbon Foam AGM which has all the best properties of Lithium ( except the weight) and they cost 1/2 as much. I’m not against the good lithium, but at $1000 a piece and you’ll need at least 2 that’s a chunk.
Lastly solar is in your future. It’s a good way to renew your batteries but I’ve given you enough.
Read, read , read. You can’t find all the parameters on here with just questions., Feel free to PM me with any issues or questions.
Good luck with the 2500rl we are happy with ours
Read, read, read
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03-06-2021, 05:37 PM #24
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I have heard you will significantly lower the life of Lithium batteries by not giving it a full charge. But the easy solution is to add a solar panel and set the controller to lithium (make sure the controller support lithium, most do). It will charge the battery to full, which is probably 14.4. Depending on where you live you might need to pull the Lithium in the winter and store it indoors, they don't charge below 32 degrees, and most quit taking one till they get a reset signal.
Dan, Ponderosa Park, CO
2021 Imagine XLS 22MLE (SOLD)
2023 Hiker Mid Range Deluxe 5x9 (Due Oct 2023)
2018 Nissan Titan Crew
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03-06-2021, 06:24 PM #25
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I put one of these in. 170Ah and no additional converters etc required. Works like a charm, direct drop in replacement. Lots of power. https://bigbattery.com/products/12v-...70ah-2-176kwh/
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03-06-2021, 07:47 PM #262021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
Two bathrooms, no waiting 155 fresh, 104 black, 104 grey 1860 watts solar.
800AH BattleBorn Batteries No campgrounds 100% boondocking
2020 Silverado High Country 3500 dually crewcab Duramax Allison
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03-06-2021, 09:21 PM #27
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Yes that will work. You are correct the converter would have to be changed to one rated for Lithium voltage in order to get full charge. But 85 % is much better than a Lead/acid battery can provide.
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03-06-2021, 09:24 PM #28
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03-06-2021, 09:25 PM #29
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03-06-2021, 09:39 PM #30
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I have a 2020 303rls it came with a WFCO Converter that charged the Lead/Acid batteries just fine but when I went to Lithium I had to change to a WFCO that would charge the Lithium to full. The original WFCO would only charge the Lithium to 80%-85%. So just check the WFCO model # and see if its ready for Lithium if you wish to fully charge the Lithium. Best to ALL
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