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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickLight View Post
    I'd love to see some references on this.

    My charger is very simple it outputs 14.6VDC constantly and forever. Everything else is up to the BMS.

    My understanding is that standard converters output 13.6VDC max. LFP reaches that voltage at a low state of charge so they will never reach their 14.4VDC full state. Check your specific batteries for their charge curve. There are other complexities like equalization that can make things worse. This is the best article I've found on the topic.
    https://glider-battery.eu/post4-1/
    Most good converters put out 14.4-14.7V until the current falls, then they reduce the voltage to something in the mid 13V range.
    Last edited by jkwilson; 03-01-2021 at 09:31 PM.
    John & Kathy
    2014 F250 Lariat FX4 6.2L SBCC
    2014 Reflection 303RLS
    SW Indiana

  2. #12
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    Your best advice would be to not cut corners. Wait until you can afford complete systems when you upgrade and if you don't how to install something hire someone who does. This will go a long way for safely enjoying your trailer.

    Red
    Location - Wherever the road takes us...Full-timers
    2015 Momentum 380
    2019 Ram Dually

  3. #13
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    I've been reading the forum for two years, but this is my first post. I can speak directly to your question from experience.
    When I bought our 303 in Apr 2019, Had the dealer install a Lion Energy UT 1200 (for the Will Prowse devotees out there, I know), a Zamp 170W solar panel and a Zamp 30A PWM (again, I know) charge controller. We're still using the stock WFCO converter. I don't have a shunt battery monitor, so this info is all voltage based.
    We store the trailer near Capitol Reef NP and visit every couple of weeks from April to November. When we use the trailer it's connected to 30A service, but in between visits it's closed up and disconnected.
    Because the charge controller is set for LiFePO, the solar panel can charge the battery to 14.4V, but it takes several days of full sun.
    Most of the time when we open the trailer the charge controller reads 14.4V but sometimes it is less. When I connect to AC the controller immediately displays 13.6V. The battery BMS display (5 percentage LEDs) shows 100% at this point (the battery is in the stock battery box, so I rarely check it).
    Now for the rest of the story.
    A month ago, we went to check on the trailer, flipped a light switch and... nothing. Thermostat blank, no power to the roof fan, awnings wouldn't move. Checked the battery, 22V. Disconnected the battery (I know), 13.8V. BMS 100%. Hmmmm. As it was 20 degrees and blowing 20 mph, I didn't troubleshoot, just closed the trailer and took the battery home with me.
    In retrospect, I think I may have fallen prey to the dreaded Red Key Syndrome and bumped the disconnect switch in the pass thru when winterizing in November. Fingers crossed that it's that simple! Guess I'll find out in April.
    When I got home I connected the battery to a 500W inverter and a heat gun and discharged it at 35A for about 90 min. The battery voltage was 13.6V and the BMS was displaying 80%. I recharged the battery wth a NOCO 3A lithium charger. It took about 36 hours for the charger to shut off. The battery reads 14.4V and the BMS is at 100%. The battery seems fine.
    So, from my experience, there is no reason not to use a LiFePO battery with a lead acid charger. Is it the most efficient way to go? No, but it won't hurt the battery.
    Of course there might be a Progressive Dynamics charger, a Victron Smart shunt and a Hughes 50A EPO in my Amazon cart. Damn this forum can be expensive.
    MB, Ab and Ufki (under foot kitty)
    '18 RAM Laramie Cummins HO
    '19 303RLS

  4. #14
    Seasoned Camper Extreme's Avatar
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    Awesome thanks.

  5. #15
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    I would not mount the battery on the outside. Just left for Florida on Wednesday and my battery had been stolen. Cost me $200 for a deep cycle GEL battery. Not as bad a losing a lithium, but I still felt the sting.

  6. #16
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    Hide Battery

    Quote Originally Posted by BigSam View Post
    I would not mount the battery on the outside. Just left for Florida on Wednesday and my battery had been stolen. Cost me $200 for a deep cycle GEL battery. Not as bad a losing a lithium, but I still felt the sting.
    What about mounting the battery in the pass-through that’s in front of the trailer? Like in the 2500RL....but not on the hitch area as they currently are mounted?

  7. #17
    Site Sponsor Biery-Bullock's Avatar
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    FWIW... WFCO now makes power centers that can charge both lead acid and lithium batteries with the flip of a switch, and they appear to have exactly the same form factor and dimensions as the standard power centers, which should make for a fairly straightforward swap.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biery-Bullock View Post
    FWIW... WFCO now makes power centers that can charge both lead acid and lithium batteries with the flip of a switch, and they appear to have exactly the same form factor and dimensions as the standard power centers, which should make for a fairly straightforward swap.
    I’m not familiar with this manufacturer....do you have an email address or the formal name of the company?

  9. #19
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    You can mount lithium batteries in the pass through because they don’t emit gases. Do not mount lead acid batteries in an inclosed area.

  10. #20
    Site Sponsor Biery-Bullock's Avatar
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    Sorry for any confusion. Our XLS 21BHE came with a WFCO power control, and I just ******-U-MEd that yours did, as well. If it does, here a link... https://wfcoelectronics.com/lithium-solutions/

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