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  1. #21
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkwilson View Post
    In my perfect world, when you bought an RV you’d stay a couple of nights right at my dealership. The salesman and a tech would be at your beck and call during that time so you’d have a little time to absorb all of the new information and to fix problems.

    12.1V is very low. Are you plugged in to shore power?
    Welcome to Fantasy Island...


    "De RV, De RV"
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  2. #22
    Seasoned Camper J Maguire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkwilson View Post
    In my perfect world, when you bought an RV you’d stay a couple of nights right at my dealership. The salesman and a tech would be at your beck and call during that time so you’d have a little time to absorb all of the new information and to fix problems.

    12.1V is very low. Are you plugged in to shore power?
    We're dry camping; that low voltage was coming from no power all night. Generator took care of that. Cheers!
    2021 GD Reflection (150) 5th Wheel 268BH
    2019 F250 Gas 6.2L V8 FX4 Crew Cab
    PullRite 2100 20K Hitch w/ LOCKED OUT Turning Point
    2x Honda EU2200i Generators & 1UP Bike Rack & Roll-N-Lock Bed Cover
    Previous Setup:
    2017 Outdoors RV 23BHS
    2017 F150 Sport 3.5L V6 EcoBoost

  3. #23
    Rolling Along jjbbrewer's Avatar
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    I tested the power connector to the trailer when wiring up my TPMS repeater.

    The truck senses the trailer being connected when there is a load on the lights (signal/brake and running). I plugged in a 7-4 pin adapter with lights on it and it triggered the "trailer connected" message. You don't need to have a trailer with electric brakes connected.

    After that, shut the driver's door and press the brake pedal (any amount of time). Then the power will go on to the trailer connector. If you open the driver's door, it will cut off until you close the door and press the pedal again. The truck doesn't have to be in gear.

    You can open or close any other door and the power will remain on.

    That's how it works on my 2020 F-450
    Last edited by jjbbrewer; 03-13-2021 at 03:44 PM.
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  4. #24
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjbbrewer View Post
    I tested the power connector to the trailer when wiring up my TPMS repeater.

    The truck senses the trailer being connected when there is a load on the lights (signal/brake and running). I plugged in a 7-4 pin adapter with lights on it and it triggered the "trailer connected" message. You don't need to have a trailer with electric brakes connected.

    After that, shut the driver's door and press the brake pedal (any amount of time). Then the power will go on to the trailer connector. If you open the driver's door, it will cut off until you close the door and press the pedal again. The truck doesn't have to be in gear.

    You can open or close any other door and the power will remain on.

    That's how it works on my 2020 F-450
    This is why I wired up a separate 7-pin connector with just 12v and ground, and tied it into one of my up-fitter switches. Now I have 12v on demand regardless of whether or not the truck is running.

    I wired my Viair Compressor with a 7-pin connector so I would not need to open the hood and attach it to the battery terminals.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  5. #25
    Left The Driveway
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    I have added a battery monitor to my trailer and with the truck connected the power from the truck just about equals the draw from the trailer. The fridge is the biggest energy hog especially when it’s hot and the fans kick on then I’m negative energy even with the truck charging. I have a Ram 2500 but I’d bet the charging voltage is pretty similar.

  6. #26
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoffnCheri View Post
    Tow vehicles are generally inefficient at charging batteries while driving. Can you give more information on what the battery charge was at the beginning of the trip and where they were at 5 hours later?
    I didn't see what year F250 was mentioned, but our 2006 Super Duty has two batteries, two alternators, and a 40 amp fuse protecting the RV power circuit which I believe has a #10 AWG wire. On the 2006 there is a relay that turns that circuit on when the ignition is on...which I jumpered it out so it is hot all the time.

    Possibly the RV wiring is not connected to that particular pin in the plug?
    Last edited by fez111; 03-13-2021 at 08:42 PM.
    Frank and Char + Maya, Newport, Michigan. 2016 Solitude 379FL/2006 F250 6.0 diesel w/dually conversion. 4th rain-sense roof vent, two ceiling fans, Kodiak disc brakes, Carlisle G 14-ply tires, Water Miser x2, final dump valve, water header tank, fridge cond fan switch, outside range exhaust, elec hot water anode, filtered drinking water, triple battery box,

  7. #27
    Left The Driveway
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	trailer12VDC aux circuit loss.png 
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ID:	32750
    I am an electronics tech and I do a lot of RV work. The whole problem with the 12V system is voltage loss through the system. I have attached a drawing (I hope) that I explain why any numbers of batteries or alternators in the TV will not charge the battery system in the trailer. I tow with a Volvo VNL 660 Road Tractor with a 160 amp alternator and 4 very large batteries and it will not fix the problem.

    If you really want to charge the batteries, you will have to do it via larger cables and connectors between the two vehicles. Run a pair of 2AWG wires from the TV battery to the back. Run 2AWG wires from the front of the trailer to the battery. Fuse the positive lead of BOTH ends as close to their batteries as possible at 30 amps( to prevent fires is case of a short). Then, to keep the trailer batteries from being used to start the TV, put a Forward Silicon Power Rectifier Diode (on an insulated heat sync) near the fuse on the trailer end. Be sure the Anode end (that triangle part of the diode symbol) is towards the TV and the cathode (the bar looking thing on the diode symbol) is towards the trailer batteries. Run the two cables inside a protective sheath. They will not heat up enough at 30 amps to matter. Use Battery Quick Connector Kit 175A 1/0AWG to connect the vehicles.

  8. #28
    Seasoned Camper
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    I had a similar problem when I put a lithium battery in, which requires a higher voltage than lead acid. I opted to install a DC to DC charger https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...50-400W-EN.pdf . I chose the 12/12 - 18 model because I did not want to do any modifications to the TV. If you opt for a more powerful model, you will likely need to run larger cables, use Andersen connectors, and do some work. I was too lazy to go to that much work for one battery. My setup will eventually bring the battery up to charge, and keep it charged while towing.

    On my Ram, the charge circuit is protected by a 30A fuse. When the this unit is charging at max capacity, the output voltage is 14.2 (working from memory) and the input from the truck drops to 8.2V. I was putting out 18 amps from the unit to the battery, and I was pulling ~25 amps from the truck charging wire.

    Do a search on dc to dc chargers and I bet you will find many posts.

  9. #29
    Seasoned Camper J Maguire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoffnCheri View Post
    No experience with the 2019 however, if 5 hours later the state of the batteries is the same charge as when you began the trip, I would accept this as a win. Your batteries are supplying the refer control board and other parasitic draws. With a single/standard alternator truck, breaking even is often as good as it gets. If other folks are experiencing a better charge rate from a single/standard alternator I would also be anxious to hear of it. If you have not already, I would consider installing a battery monitor to see the actual voltage rate or putting a voltmeter on the battery before the trip and upon arrival to determine if you are losing and charge and to what degree.
    I started this thread originally so I thought I'd follow up. Hooked up voltage monitor today and drove six hours. Didn't gain or lose and that's with the fridge on and the slide out being used several times, etc., so it's definitely charging just not getting ahead or falling behind. Thanks for all the helpful feedback here.
    2021 GD Reflection (150) 5th Wheel 268BH
    2019 F250 Gas 6.2L V8 FX4 Crew Cab
    PullRite 2100 20K Hitch w/ LOCKED OUT Turning Point
    2x Honda EU2200i Generators & 1UP Bike Rack & Roll-N-Lock Bed Cover
    Previous Setup:
    2017 Outdoors RV 23BHS
    2017 F150 Sport 3.5L V6 EcoBoost

  10. #30
    Left The Driveway
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    Quote Originally Posted by John303 View Post
    I had a similar problem when I put a lithium battery in, which requires a higher voltage than lead acid. I opted to install a DC to DC charger https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...50-400W-EN.pdf . I chose the 12/12 - 18 model because I did not want to do any modifications to the TV. If you opt for a more powerful model, you will likely need to run larger cables, use Andersen connectors, and do some work. I was too lazy to go to that much work for one battery. My setup will eventually bring the battery up to charge, and keep it charged while towing.

    On my Ram, the charge circuit is protected by a 30A fuse. When the this unit is charging at max capacity, the output voltage is 14.2 (working from memory) and the input from the truck drops to 8.2V. I was putting out 18 amps from the unit to the battery, and I was pulling ~25 amps from the truck charging wire.

    Do a search on dc to dc chargers and I bet you will find many posts.
    Thanks for sharing. To put that into work with my previous post, your are dropping 6 volts (14.2 - 8.2). Resistance = volts/current. Therefore, your circuit resistance is .24 ohms. Not bad. Probably most of it in your trailer plug. Interesting about your DC-DC charger. I wonder which fix is the least expensive, the DC charger or larger cables/connectors. ?? No experience with the DC Charger.

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