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  1. #11
    Site Sponsor Malco1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoffnCheri View Post
    If relatively level here is our sequence
    1. Chock wheels
    2. Lower front jacks about 6 holes
    3. Ground front jacks
    4. Unlock hitch
    5. Raise trailer to take pressure off of hitch
    6. Open/release hitch
    7. Raise trailer slightly so about 1/8th to 1/4" above hitch plate
    8. Pull truck out.
    9. Plug in 50 amp
    10. Push auto level
    Don't forget to lower the tailgate.
    Mal & Helen
    With Mitzi our Yorkie
    2021 Solitude 310GK-R
    2020 Reflection 303RLS Sold
    2020 Ford F250 Lariat Super Duty 4WD 6.7 Diesel Short Bed
    B&W Companion Slider
    Amateur Radio Call sign WA2TWA


  2. #12
    Setting Up Camp north channel novels's Avatar
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    Unhitching before plugging in?

    Quote Originally Posted by livinthelife View Post
    When unhitching, we eyeball how level it is. It's best to be pretty close to level when you start out. We pull in, check for level, then place landing pads under where the legs will be. Turn on auto level control and scroll down to "drop landing gear", hit "enter" and the front gear then drops and takes a bit of the weight off the truck. When display shows "ready", I lower front legs to raise rig off truck. When the truck stops moving up, we unhitch and pull truck forward. Then hit "auto level". When auto level completes, we start moving in, husband does electrical/water connections, and I go in and put out slides.

    Basically do it all in reverse for hitching up. Husband disconnects power/water (after dumping), and I close up slides and lock the door.

    If the ground just isn't level, we use leveling boards to raise low side to even things up side to side before starting leveling process.
    I am curious to know why a number of you plug in only after leveling, rather than before? We often do, but it isn't etched in stone, and I figure that if I've already disconnected power from the truck, hooking up to the 30 amp campground system will save a little wear and tear on the battery. Again, just askin'.
    2000 Jayco Eagle 243RKS 1992 Dodge 250 5.9 Cummins (retired)
    2013 Puma 253FBS 2003 Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins (Moved on)
    2018 Reflection 230RL 2015 Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins (Current)

  3. #13
    Site Sponsor GeoffnCheri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malco1 View Post
    Don't forget to lower the tailgate.
    Yep, for us it lives between step 3 and 4
    Geoff and Cheri
    2011 F250 CC 6.7L
    Firestone Ride Rite Airbags
    Pull Rite 16k SuperGlide
    2018 Reflection 303RLS, Build date 9/2017
    USMC-Retired
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  4. #14
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    Thanks all for the information.

    "I am curious to know why a number of you plug in only after leveling, rather than before? We often do, but it isn't etched in stone, and I figure that if I've already disconnected power from the truck, hooking up to the 30 amp campground system will save a little wear and tear on the battery. Again, just askin'."

    I was wondering that as well. Isn't it safer to use shore power rather than your battery. Doesn't that put a lot of strain on your batteries?

  5. #15
    Site Sponsor Richter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoffnCheri View Post
    If relatively level here is our sequence
    1. Chock wheels
    2. Lower front jacks about 6 holes
    3. Ground front jacks
    4. Unlock hitch
    5. Raise trailer to take pressure off of hitch
    6. Open/release hitch
    7. Raise trailer slightly so about 1/8th to 1/4" above hitch plate
    8. Pull truck out.
    9. Plug in 50 amp
    10. Push auto level
    In addition to lowering the tailgate, you’ll also want to disconnect the break-away and light cables. If you have an Andersen hitch with chains, they need to be unhooked as well.

    I take one last look before I move the truck, ensuring that I see light everywhere between the truck and trailer. That way, nothing is still hooked up. I call it my “all-clear” check.
    Tom and Janice (known as Tom in PGH on the “other” forum)

    First came the 18' Comfort bumper-pull, was great for 20 years.
    Now a 2019 Reflection 303RLS, second air, double glass, table and chairs
    2019 F350 Lariat (Diesel) 4x4 Crewcab with lots of goodies
    Andersen aluminum with the puck system holding it all together
    Cranberry Twp. PA, about 30 miles north of Pittsburgh

  6. #16
    Site Sponsor livinthelife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by north channel novels View Post
    I am curious to know why a number of you plug in only after leveling, rather than before? We often do, but it isn't etched in stone, and I figure that if I've already disconnected power from the truck, hooking up to the 30 amp campground system will save a little wear and tear on the battery. Again, just askin'.
    It's just when it fits into the routine. I help unhitch, my husband drives the truck away/parks it, and I hit the auto level button. Then he hooks up power & water, I unload the truck into the rig and put out slides.

    2017 Reflection 26RL "Mili"
    2016 Ford F250 Extended Cab Gas Engine "Buck" (the truck)

  7. #17
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    Just a quick note regarding how high to raise the rig off the truck when unhitching. It will separate much easier if you will raise the rig until you can see a gap between the plate on the hitch and the rig. That will eliminate any binding.
    First thing I do when I get trailer where we want to setup is plug in the surge protector at the power pole. Ours does a system scan that takes a few minutes and will turn green once it completes it test. I begin the unhitching sequence next and by the time I'm ready for shore power it is green and ready to go.
    Otherwise all good advice.

  8. #18
    Site Sponsor livinthelife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RVingwithJessandChris View Post
    Just a quick note regarding how high to raise the rig off the truck when unhitching. It will separate much easier if you will raise the rig until you can see a gap between the plate on the hitch and the rig. That will eliminate any binding.
    First thing I do when I get trailer where we want to setup is plug in the surge protector at the power pole. Ours does a system scan that takes a few minutes and will turn green once it completes it test. I begin the unhitching sequence next and by the time I'm ready for shore power it is green and ready to go.
    Otherwise all good advice.
    I drop the landing gear until the truck stops moving up.

    2017 Reflection 26RL "Mili"
    2016 Ford F250 Extended Cab Gas Engine "Buck" (the truck)

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by livinthelife View Post
    I drop the landing gear until the truck stops moving up.
    With the B&W Companion that isn't high enough for the jaws to open. You need the gap and then when you swing the arm the rig will unload on its on so all you have to do is remove the trailer plug and pull away. Otherwise the arm will feel like it's disconnected and not open the jaws.

  10. #20
    Site Sponsor livinthelife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RVingwithJessandChris View Post
    With the B&W Companion that isn't high enough for the jaws to open. You need the gap and then when you swing the arm the rig will unload on its on so all you have to do is remove the trailer plug and pull away. Otherwise the arm will feel like it's disconnected and not open the jaws.
    Well, it works for us. We don't have B&W.

    2017 Reflection 26RL "Mili"
    2016 Ford F250 Extended Cab Gas Engine "Buck" (the truck)

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