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  1. #11
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grand Master IceMan View Post
    Certainly; that said: What was said that was incorrect or just possibly misleading?
    It was all very cautionary as far as I can tell.
    But should be my "takeaway from this" in order to know what to do in my situation?
    Thanks.
    Nothing you said. My point was, when you ask a question on the internet, the two most critical subjects being electrical and propane, you will usually get a variety of responses ranging from absurd to dangerous. I've been on RV forums for going on 10 years, and I assure you, I have read it all, or at lest most of it, some comments being just an uninformed ower thinking he was being helpful to outright dangerous suggestions. You would do well, and I'm not saying that you don't, but research as many responses as you can. It's an ongoing learning experience.
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  2. #12
    Commercial Member huntr70's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobLandry View Post
    50A is 220V.
    Yes, but it is wired differently than a welder plug or home dryer.

    It is 2 legs of 110, 4 wire.
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  3. #13
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntr70 View Post
    Yes, but it is wired differently than a welder plug or home dryer.

    It is 2 legs of 110, 4 wire.
    huntr70....I agree. Maybe a better way for it to be phrased would be like this....the 50A welder plug is 240V.....and it is ONLY 240V. The RV plug (NEMA 14-50) is also 240V, but it functions as two 120V circuits because of the way the breaker panel is made in the RV.
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  4. #14
    Commercial Member huntr70's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    huntr70....I agree. Maybe a better way for it to be phrased would be like this....the 50A welder plug is 240V.....and it is ONLY 240V. The RV plug (NEMA 14-50) is also 240V, but it functions as two 120V circuits because of the way the breaker panel is made in the RV.
    Yeah, probably.

    Biggest lesson to learn here is to not adapt electricity unless you know what you are doing.
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  5. #15
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    huntr70....I agree. Maybe a better way for it to be phrased would be like this....the 50A welder plug is 240V.....and it is ONLY 240V. The RV plug (NEMA 14-50) is also 240V, but it functions as two 120V circuits because of the way the breaker panel is made in the RV.
    That's correct.240 enters the trailer as two out of phase(180degrees) and whatever type of panel it goes to splits it into the two110 legs. Also, while it's called 50A service, it's actually 100A because both legs can carry 50A.
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  6. #16
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobLandry View Post
    That's correct.240 enters the trailer as two out of phase(180degrees) and whatever type of panel it goes to splits it into the two110 legs. Also, while it's called 50A service, it's actually 100A because both legs can carry 50A.
    Yes Sir, I learned that stuff way back in the late 70's when I went through the Electrical Apprenticeship program. I've been a Journeyman since 1980.....although I'm retired as of last April.
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  7. #17
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    Hello All, and thanks for everyone's suggestions and comments.

    Well, after telling my brother-in-law everything y'all have been saying on here, he got some advice from his (real) electrician.
    ...As a reminder, we had already changed the Box from a 3-prong to a 4-prong.
    But then the electrician directed him to take that connection and create a 'Jumper from the Ground to the Neutral' to solve it.

    That "seems" to have worked; my Watchdog Power Protector did NOT light up red this time; and I finally have full electricity.
    ...But I'm curious if any of you have comments about this one way or the other..?

    Thanks.

  8. #18
    Seasoned Camper Tgunter5's Avatar
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    Curious about this as well!!! As a newbie, I use alot of this info to make educated decisions all the time! I was under the impression that there really isn't a difference in "wiring" when comparing dryer/welder to a 50A RV. Yes the receptacle may be different but as far as wiring, its a 3-conductor wire (2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground) or a 2-conductor (2 hots, 1 ground) like the OP has. One of the biggest mistake's is when someone tries to make a 240V 2-conductor circuit and wire that into a 30A receptacle. YOU WILL FRY YOUR TRAILER if you do this. Just extra information for other readers along the way. My apologies if I overstepped in any way.
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  9. #19
    Seasoned Camper Chewwi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grand Master IceMan View Post
    Hello All, and thanks for everyone's suggestions and comments.

    Well, after telling my brother-in-law everything y'all have been saying on here, he got some advice from his (real) electrician.
    ...As a reminder, we had already changed the Box from a 3-prong to a 4-prong.
    But then the electrician directed him to take that connection and create a 'Jumper from the Ground to the Neutral' to solve it.

    That "seems" to have worked; my Watchdog Power Protector did NOT light up red this time; and I finally have full electricity.
    ...But I'm curious if any of you have comments about this one way or the other..?

    Thanks.
    Connecting the neutral to the ground will work electrically since the ground and neutral are bonded at the main service panel. It can create an electrical shock hazard under some conditions.


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  10. #20
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewwi View Post
    Connecting the neutral to the ground will work electrically since the ground and neutral are bonded at the main service panel. It can create an electrical shock hazard under some conditions.


    2020 2600RB,
    2017 Silverado Crew Cab 1500, 6.2L
    ...Thanks, but can you tell me what "shock hazard conditions" you are referring to?

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