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  1. #1
    Rolling Along
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    Disabling OE converter

    So, I thought I would be smart and disable my OE converter (WFCO, not lithium capable) and use a separate charger. But my plans have been foiled momentarily, for it turns out that the "CONV" breaker does not just supply the converter, it also supplies several receptacles throughout the trailer, including the one in the storage compartment where I plug in the charger.

    Any ideas on an elegant way of disabling the converter without ripping it out altogether? It seems annoyed to be connected at the same time as the Victron charger, and it beeps once or twice and stops supplying juice on its own (until power is cut and then restored), but that doesn't seem like a good solution.
    Current: 2021 Transcend 261BH, 2019 Ford F250 SRW SWB CC 6.2 - Picture
    Previous: 2016 Jayco X213, 2014 F150 EB 3.5

  2. #2
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    I guess this is pretty standard, based on a bit of research. Hrmph.
    Current: 2021 Transcend 261BH, 2019 Ford F250 SRW SWB CC 6.2 - Picture
    Previous: 2016 Jayco X213, 2014 F150 EB 3.5

  3. #3
    Long Hauler
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    Quote Originally Posted by rootusrootus View Post
    I guess this is pretty standard, based on a bit of research. Hrmph.
    Yup, the converter is the heart of the power paths in the coach... It takes 110VAC in and charges the battery(ies) and provides 110VAC to the 15 amp outlets in the coach. The only way to "bypass" it is not really elegant.

    I'm not advocating, or even suggesting this, just merely providing a hypothetical discussion...

    You COULD bypass the converter, use a residential rework junction box to provide the 110VAC power to the outlets in the coach. Using conduit to enclose the Romex that one would use to run to the outlets, that way there wouldn't be as big of a possibility that it rubs through the insulation somewhere and shorts out, causing a potential fire hazard; similar to residential or commercial wiring in exposed locations.

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
    Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
    Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoonShadow_1911 View Post
    Yup, the converter is the heart of the power paths in the coach... It takes 110VAC in and charges the battery(ies) and provides 110VAC to the 15 amp outlets in the coach. The only way to "bypass" it is not really elegant.

    I'm not advocating, or even suggesting this, just merely providing a hypothetical discussion...

    You COULD bypass the converter, use a residential rework junction box to provide the 110VAC power to the outlets in the coach. Using conduit to enclose the Romex that one would use to run to the outlets, that way there wouldn't be as big of a possibility that it rubs through the insulation somewhere and shorts out, causing a potential fire hazard; similar to residential or commercial wiring in exposed locations.

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
    AFAIK the converter is just the AC>DC module in the bottom of the power distribution enclosure. The left half is A/C circuit panel, the right half has a fuse board for the 12V system, and at the bottom is the converter. It takes power from a breaker like anything else, converts to DC and feeds the DC fuse panel.

    If the converter was the only thing on the "CONV" circuit, disabling it would be as simple as throwing the breaker. But in my case (and apparently others, based on my research), the breaker has unrelated receptacles wired to it, crimped together with the lead to the converter. So disabling the converter with the breaker also cuts power to those receptacles.

    The ghetto solution is to disconnect the converter's neutral from the bar, and cap it. That leaves the hot connected, but the converter should be nonfunctional. But I don't like leaving the hot connected. Disconnecting that will require cutting off the crimp cap and directly connecting the receptacle circuit to the breaker. I'll do it, but wish there was a more elegant, trivially reversible way to go about this.

    Oh well. I guess I'll cut the crimp cap and replace it with a wago, so it'd be easy to reenable the converter with a few minutes effort.

  5. #5
    Paid my dues 😁 FT4NOW's Avatar
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    I'm not sure which power distribution center you have, but some of the converters are actually plugged in to the breaker box on the back side with a standard outlet. If that's not the case, and its hardwired, you could just remove the fuses or disconnect the 12v wires from the converter output.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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  6. #6
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    So why not disconnect the shore power and clip the wire hot feed to to the converter at the crimp connector?
    2019 F-250 Supercab
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  7. #7
    Seasoned Camper
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    Why not just remove the WFCO converter and replace with a converter that is capable of charging the new bayteries.

  8. #8
    Site Sponsor JCR GD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viper02 View Post
    Why not just remove the WFCO converter and replace with a converter that is capable of charging the new bayteries.
    Some of the smaller amperage WFCO converters are integrated into the power distribution panel. Not so easy to bypass or just replace.
    Jim (& Sharon)
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  9. #9
    Seasoned Camper Flip94ta's Avatar
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    I disconnected my converter wire and capped it just over a year ago. I’m not a certified electrician, is there something ghetto about this that I’m missing?

    2018 F-250 6.7L Leveled, 35’s.
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  10. #10
    Long Hauler Paul & Deb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rootusrootus View Post
    So, I thought I would be smart and disable my OE converter (WFCO, not lithium capable) and use a separate charger. But my plans have been foiled momentarily, for it turns out that the "CONV" breaker does not just supply the converter, it also supplies several receptacles throughout the trailer, including the one in the storage compartment where I plug in the charger.

    Any ideas on an elegant way of disabling the converter without ripping it out altogether? It seems annoyed to be connected at the same time as the Victron charger, and it beeps once or twice and stops supplying juice on its own (until power is cut and then restored), but that doesn't seem like a good solution.
    In my wee 17MKE (30 amp unit) the converter is built in to the power center. I also needed to shut it down when I plug the trailer in to my inverter. I also discovered that the converter was wired to the same breaker as the trailer's GFI outlets. I merely pulled it off the GFI breaker and added it to the W/H (water heater) breaker. Perfect resolution since the W/H would never be used when running the trailer off the 2,000 watt inverter.
    Paul "Poppy" and Deb Cervone
    2022 Imagine XLS 22MLE
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