User Tag List
Thanks: 0
Results 21 to 22 of 22
Thread: AC Ducts blocked??
-
04-18-2021, 05:22 AM #21
- Join Date
- Apr 2021
- Posts
- 10
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Thank you. For starters I can remove the supply grills and check them. The rest I will have to get some help. My husband is home 250 miles away. But between my warranty (go anywhere) and the extended coverage I added on for on site service) this will get me started. Thank you. In the end, I am very happy with my 2250RK. I just keep everything in perspective. It’s a traveling home. Not made like my real home. I’m thankful to be camping in the peace and quiet everyday after working 12 hours. Not many have that luxury. Thanks again for your help and guidance.
-
04-27-2021, 01:28 PM #22
- Join Date
- Feb 2021
- Location
- Star, ID
- Posts
- 291
- Mentioned
- 6 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
I also have the 2250RK with the Furrion A/c unit. Part of your problem is that Furrion monitors the temperature of the air up inside the AC unit and not at the wall thermostat. This is why you see such a variance in the thermostat temperature and the standalone measured temperature. As others have stated, you have cold "conditioned"'' air leaking into the return air side of the AC unit where the "room sensor" is located and is causing it to shut off prematurely. You have a few options to address this. One is to do what several others have done and just have the room sensor poke thru the inlet filter into the room and it will greatly improve the accuracy of the reported temperature on the thermostat. Another option is to relocate the room sensor by extending the wiring and placing it in a location that is more central to the room and it will improve the accuracy even more.
To address the short cycling due to conditioned air bleeding into the return air side of the AC unit, you will need to drop the register from the ceiling and do some sealing using some aluminum duct tape. Here are some pictures of mine after I removed the control box, and the sticky backed foam padding that is used to seal the area. When it was installed it was not done very well and left several very large gaps for the forced conditioned air to blow back into the return air side. with the control box and foam padding removed, you can clearly see all of the leak points. Take your time and seal them all up using the foil tape. I then reused the sticky backed foam padding but had to do some trimming to make it sit properly. I also taped around the air duct (i.e race track") on the forced air side to seal any gaps that would allow the air to blow into the ceiling (Sorry, I didn't get any pictures of that work). After doing this, I noticed a huge increase in the amount of air volume coming out of the roof vents since all of the air is now forced to enter the ducting and not bleed off into the roof or back into the return air side.
Last edited by Heavysledz; 04-27-2021 at 01:31 PM.
Jeff and Debbie
2021 Imagine 2250RK
2015 Ram2500 Laramie CC 6.7 Cummins Diesel w/air-ride auto leveling
USMC Veteran
Freezer Opens on Travel Day?
Today, 03:46 PM in Appliances