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  1. #11
    Setting Up Camp
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    Thanks for the replies clarifying the wood should be there and to keep it there!! Also on suggestions on the additional fan installation. I'll run these by the other half and probably come back with more specific questions. I'll definitely add some sort of insulation to the back and top of the interior pantry walls.

    Much appreciated!!
    2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali
    2021 Reflection 260RD Fifth wheel
    Solar 800 watt 400 ah

  2. #12
    Site Sponsor JCR GD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmeliaKD View Post
    Thanks! I wonder how the foam board would compare the the reflective bubble material.
    JFWIW, The stuff I used had the foil stuff on one side.
    Jim (& Sharon)
    2015 GD Momentum 385TH - SOLD
    For Sale - 2015 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 Lariat w/ AirLift bags, Titan 65 gal. OEM replacement fuel tank.
    The toy:
    2017 RZR XP 1000 EPS SE

  3. #13
    Site Sponsor
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    We also noticed the warm pantry next to the fridge on the 260 RD, will follow the thread and try the insulation. New to have limited what we store in the compartment
    Tom & Ellen McHugh
    Weldon Spring MO

    2021 F350 Crewcab SB 7.3 gas
    GD 150 RD260

  4. #14
    Fireside Member
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    Feb 2021
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    Replacing fans in the fridge......

    We use the upper pantry as a coat closet. There is a coat rack in the top of my 260RD. Can you give me specifics on replacing the noisy fan with the 2 more efficient ones as you did? Thanks in advance.


    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    The needed air flow on these units is from the bottom vent, where it draws in cooler outside air, then upward and across the heat exchanger and out the top vent. If the plywood is removed, it allows that cooler air, that comes in at the bottom to flow upward, but it then goes out the upper vent BEFORE it has a chance to move across the upper coil/heat exchanger......basically bypassing the heat exchanger and not doing what it was designed to do. When the plywood is in place, where it is supposed to be, it FORCES that cooler air to flow across the upper coil/heat exchanger and removed the build up of heat in that coil. Removing the plywood is asking for trouble and it WILL cause the refrigerator to operate LESS efficient than it should. Think about your Air Conditioner at your house. When it is running, the outdoor coil/condensor unit has the high pressure hot gas flowing through the coils out there. There is a fan that is running that circulates the outside air across those coils and that airflow absorbs and dissipates some of the heat from those coils, which in turn Condenses the hot gas and turns it back into a liquid.....for the cycle to start all over again. If the heat cannot be removed out there, trust me, you will be calling an A/C repair guy to come and work on it...or if you are handy enough, you will replace the motor and get it running yourself. The refrigerator in the trailer is basically the same thing....the heat from that upper coil has to be dissipated and if you remove the plywood and change the airflow path, you have effectively caused it to NOT be able to do it's job, which is removing as much heat from the coil/refrigerant as possible. Hope this helps explain why it is there .....and why it SHOULD be there.

    Now a little discussion about the upper fans. On the Norcold units, those upper fans have a couple of issues pertaining to them. First, they really don't move enough air...they are too small for the job, especially when the outside temperatures start getting hotter during the summertime. Think CFM....or that lack of it. Secondly, the thermostat/thermodisc that turns both of those fans on, is set to operate at 130 degrees, which again, is set too high, in my opinion. Many, many folks have added additional fans in that upper vent area to help with increased air flow across the heat exchanger.....but in order for even that to be able to work, the PLYWOOD must be left in place. The twin fans that I installed on mine have their own thermostat, that is mounted inside the trailer but with the temperature sensor mounted in the area where the upper coil is located. The sensor will turn the aux. fans on at 68 degrees.....and that is a huge difference between the inefficient factor thermostat (130 degree setpoint) with the undersized factory fans. After installing my set of fans on the upper vent, the fridge now operates a lot better and actually works a lot more like it should. Before installing the fans, my setpoint on the fridge was always at either 8 or 9 (9 being the coldest setting available on the Norcold) and the fridge would sometimes only get into the lower 40s inside the fridge. WITH the fans installed and running, I can now use a setting of 3 or 4 on the Norcold settings, and even on days when the outside temperatures are in the 90s. The fridge temperatures will hover about 33-35 degrees in the food compartment and anywhere from maybe 2-8 degrees in the freezer.

  5. #15
    Big Traveler Grandesigner's Avatar
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    We also use the top half as a closet and the bottom half is not used for food storage, so we have never even noticed if it gets too hot in the pantry. Sometimes ignorance is bliss, lol
    Dan and Rita
    2021 Reflection150 260RD, built June 2020, w/400W solar + 2 size 31 AGMs, added 2" lift blocks to match the
    2022 F350 SCSB 7.3 GdZa 4x4, 10 Sp w/4.30s - Lariat Sport in Atlas Blue

  6. #16
    Fireside Member
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    I would like details on the dual fans you installed. I have a 260RD with the double wide Norcold and it does make alot of noise.

  7. #17
    Long Hauler
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thpose View Post
    I would like details on the dual fans you installed. I have a 260RD with the double wide Norcold and it does make alot of noise.
    See this thread: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...-With-a-Twist!

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
    Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
    Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
    Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel

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