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04-13-2021, 10:37 AM #11
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- Dec 2020
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- Alpharetta, GA
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Hi,
Many thanks for all of your insight and shared experiences.
I think I will bring water test tabs and see the quality of the campground water. I am almost afraid to see the results.
Mitch Frank
22MLE
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04-13-2021, 10:40 AM #12
- Join Date
- Sep 2018
- Location
- Woodstock
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2021 Imagine 2400 BH
2018 GMC Sierra 4x4 Crew 1840lb payload
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04-13-2021, 01:47 PM #13
- Join Date
- Mar 2019
- Location
- N Central PA
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- 1,584
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Bob (retired) & Vicki
Scuba Diver
US ARMY Vet (Go Cav!)
2019 Reflection 31MB
2019 Chevy 2500HD LT Crew Cab Gasser
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04-13-2021, 02:58 PM #14
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
- Location
- Henderson NV
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- 895
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OOPS...Double Tap.
2018 Silverado LTZ 3500HD CC LB 4X4 DRW Duramax/Allison
2019 Momentum 381M w/Full Body Paint
2016 Can Am Spyder F3 Limited Special Series
2017 Can Am Outlander 1000 XT-P
2016 Wrangler Hard Rock Unlimited
1997 Bayliner Capri 1950 affectionately named Skinnydipper
MSgt, USAF (Ret)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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04-13-2021, 02:58 PM #15
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
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- Henderson NV
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Leave it to @Second Chance to throw a wrench in the gears... :-) I sanitize my water system with bleach. Having said that, last season we developed a rotten egg smell when using hot water. After struggling with this for a couple of trips, I was advised not to use a solid aluminum anode rod as this promotes a certain bacterial growth that gives off a rotten egg smell. I was told to change the anode to an aluminum/magnesium(?) rod to prevent this from occurring. I was also advised to sanitize the water heater tank (by itself) using hydrogen peroxide, as chlorine is (mildly) caustic and could damage the tank. After changing the anode and sanitizing (maybe cleaning is a better term) the water heater tank with hydrogen peroxide, the smell was gone and has never returned.
John2018 Silverado LTZ 3500HD CC LB 4X4 DRW Duramax/Allison
2019 Momentum 381M w/Full Body Paint
2016 Can Am Spyder F3 Limited Special Series
2017 Can Am Outlander 1000 XT-P
2016 Wrangler Hard Rock Unlimited
1997 Bayliner Capri 1950 affectionately named Skinnydipper
MSgt, USAF (Ret)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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04-13-2021, 07:08 PM #16
- Join Date
- Apr 2020
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I don't think I've ever read about sanitizing water hoses. I have a hose I use when at full hookup sites and a couple of 100 ft. Zero G hoses I use strictly for filling my fresh tank at State Parks where the community spigot might be a distance from my RV. Every spring, mid summer and again in the fall, I put my hoses in a large storage tote with a water/bleach mix and let them soak overnight. Bacteria can grow in the hoses too.
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04-13-2021, 07:28 PM #17
Unless you have access to lab-grade hydrogen peroxide, it does not make sense to shock the water heater with it. What you smell is hydrogen sulfide vapor produced from sulfate-reducing bacteria, and you receive this from well water (disinfection processes of public water supply kill the bacteria) which is something we know well having well water. One thing that was incorrect advice - does not matter if your anode is all-aluminum or magnesium-aluminum when either corrodes the reaction with the sulfates in the water ensues. If you can find a zinc anode rod, that is the ticket and they are out there for RV water heaters but generally an order-in affair.
The bacteria is killed readily with chlorine. In fact, the pro shock process is to use chlorine, but hydrogen peroxide works but if you cannot lay hands on industrial (i.e., 90%+) strength you my find it ineffective because household strength goes to water quickly as the other Rob pointed out.
If you are not full-timing and constantly running water through your freshwater system, the best piece of advice I can share to maintain freshness is that when you get home from every trip, flush ALL of your freshwater system with water of known quality. FWIW, many States offer free yearly testing, or testing at a small fee, of your home's water.Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN
Mountains of Pennsylvania
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04-13-2021, 07:48 PM #18
Absolutely! However, you want to make sure your hose is completely filled and have displaced all air with the bleach solution. I link all of our hose together, and put an old twist nozzle on one end and pump the solution in the other. When it's flowing out the nozzle steady, close the nozzle and the other end the demand pump stops. Disconnect the pump, cap the end and let it sit and flush well. Nice a fresh thereafter.
Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN
Mountains of Pennsylvania
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04-14-2021, 07:25 AM #19
- Join Date
- Feb 2017
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- White Bear Lake, MN
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I wish I had a way to pump the sanitizing water into my hose. Also wish I had a better way to put the chlorine into the RV fresh tank than by using a funnel in the gravity fill port....
(This on an Imagine 2670MK with the non-nautilus control panel)
Has anyone seen a fitting that can plug into the outside spray port, and then connect a hose? That would fix the first issue for me.2017 Imagine 2670MK
2012 F-150 SCrew, Eco, 4x4 6.5 box
Max. Tow, HD Payload, Airbags, ProPride hitch
(Previous: Jayco 26.5RLS Fifth, Revolution Pinbox)
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04-14-2021, 08:01 AM #20
Broken leafspring. Another….
Today, 05:26 AM in Axles, Brakes, and Suspension