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Thread: Looking for WD Hitch Clarification

  1. #1
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    Looking for WD Hitch Clarification

    I picked up my 25G trailer from the dealer this weekend.
    I was very happy with the whole process, but on the 5 hour drive home, I kept questioning myself about whether or not the WD Hitch setup is adequate.

    I was supposed to get a Class V 2 1/2" shank, but they didn't have one that worked for my truck, so they used a 2" shank and spacer.
    The GTW was fine for that 14,000 lbs. TW 1400 lbs. That's one of the things that worried me. The build sheet says TW 1290.
    Add to that 125 lbs. for the battery and propane, and I'm at 1415 lbs. At that point, I'm over the limit, and the trailer isn't even loaded yet.
    Adding 200 lbs. for clothes and tools in the front storage, and I'm at 1615 TW, well over the shank rating.
    And, that's if I don't put payload in the pickup.

    I don't know how much 90 gallons of water and full fridge affects TW because they are in the middle of the trailer.
    I do know that when my M/C (650 lbs.) is loaded in the back the TW will go down.
    How much, I'll see, but enough to get to a level safely below 1400 TW?
    Secondly, I won't have it the M/C half the time, and I don't want to drive around with 650 lbs. of sand bags to balance things out.
    Am I over thinking this or should I have them get me the class V shank they were originally supposed to?

    The next thing that drove me batty on the 5 hour trip home in the rain was the weight distributing bars.
    They are rated at 1200 lbs. They said that's the bars they use on that model. How they determined that I don't know.
    Everything I read said it should be rated for the max TW weight you will have.
    Even if I don't load it to max, the TW has to be around 15-1600 lbs.
    When I spoke with the Tech from the manufacturer yesterday, he said I should be using 1600 lb. bars.
    Again, am I over thinking this? Should I have them get me the heavier bars?

    I know just enough to get myself in trouble here and without a true weight, I have to use the numbers on the spec sheet.
    Because it's 5 hours back to the dealer, I ordered a TW scale, will load it up and go to the Truck stop to weight it before calling them back.
    We discussed this before I left there, and I surrendered to their expertise, but 5 hours in the rain gave me too much time to think.
    The ride home, it didn't bounce up and down too much, but this was my first heavy tow, and I really don't know what to expect.

    My wife drives also, and since I can't look her in the eye and tell her I think it's safe, I won't use the trailer until I figure this out.

  2. #2
    Site Sponsor NB Canada's Avatar
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    IMO I would only use a weigh-safe hitch if I were you

    Especially if your cargo is going to change

    Unfortunately toy haulers are built to haul so when they donít they can be difficult
    But like I said if it were me I would immediately order a weigh-safe wdh. You can adjust it on the fly depending on your cargo
    Good luck


    2021 Imagine 2400 BH
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  3. #3
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    My 1 experience when talking to the RV dealer about WDH was.....The most expensive unit is the best. They gave me 1000# bars for a GVWR of 5500#. In my opinion they had no idea how those bars work and that a way over/under sized bar will not be as effective. They should have sized your WDH for GVWR and at least a proportional TW.

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    @Rancher350 - At 5500 GVWR, 10-15% TW = 550- 825 lbs. 1000 lb. bars have a range from 500 - 1000 lbs. I don't see that as unacceptable.

    In my situation, I'm 100 lbs. over the max, and I haven't even loaded the trailer yet.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by deeuubee View Post
    @Rancher350 - At 5500 GVWR, 10-15% TW = 550- 825 lbs. 1000 lb. bars have a range from 500 - 1000 lbs. I don't see that as unacceptable.

    In my situation, I'm 100 lbs. over the max, and I haven't even loaded the trailer yet.
    I’ve got a 2019 BlueOx SwayPro 2000 with 2.5” shank and 2000 lb bars for sale. Depending on what your dealer does or doesn’t do for you and if you’re interested, I’ll send to you for just the shipping fee. (It’s heavy, so be forewarned.)
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by deeuubee View Post
    @Rancher350 - At 5500 GVWR, 10-15% TW = 550- 825 lbs. 1000 lb. bars have a range from 500 - 1000 lbs. I don't see that as unacceptable.

    In my situation, I'm 100 lbs. over the max, and I haven't even loaded the trailer yet.
    I was commenting toward your question and predicament. The dealer gave you a set up that wouldn't support the GVWR of your rig. Based on your comment back to me and its "typed" tone would indicate you should have known they fouled up, with the items they gave. Every rig is different and must be analyzed accordingly. Now for my experience. For my hitch bars come in sizes typically in 200# increments. I was given 1000# bars for a UVW or 3900 and GVWR of 5500. Starting tongue weight of 390 add 2 tanks and 1 battery. No storage up front, large storage all the way aft and with black and grey tanks behind the axels at 64 gallons and fresh at 60 gallons just forward of the axels. My tongue weight had no way of ever really crossing much beyond 550# especially since i rarely go far with full tanks. I contacted the manufacturer and they agreed and recommended 600# bars. The ride improved greatly!

  7. #7
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    @Rancher350 -My apologies if I came across sarcastic, it wasn't my intention.
    Sometimes in an attempt to be brief, things don't come out like I intended.

    I can see the point on your trailer. My brain thinks every trailer is a toyhauler with heavier tongue weights.
    .
    No doubt my situation is of my own doing.
    Cancelling the trip I was going on right from the dealer, and then another 10 hour round trip back and forth to the dealer another day weakened my good judgement. I'm in no way blaming the dealer for this. They say they use that set up for that trailer all the time.
    Maybe after I set up and weight this weekend, I'll feel the same way. Best case scenario, I'm wrong and apologize again.
    Worst case, I'm right and have to get different equipment.

  8. #8
    Site Sponsor Redapple63's Avatar
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    Deeuubee,

    I have a Reflection 315RLTS with a 10995 GVWR and a 9400 empty weight. I use Equalizer 4pt wdh with 1600 pound bars and a class v 2 1/2 receiver.

    My most recent weigh came in at 10770 lbs with TW of about 1520.

    I agree with your assessment.

    Good Luck!


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  9. #9
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    No worries, text has no soul. I still believe they short changed you by not supplying a wdh that didn't meet gvwr. I am curious in change of tw with and without the machine loaded. Yes forums try to expunge advice but unless person knows exactly what's needed they will get all sorts of advice. Luckily I am a practicle nerd of an engineer. Good luck.

  10. #10
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    Welcome to the fabulous world of becoming a load master to safely run a toy hauler both in empty and loaded configurations, its a fine art.

    I have been hauling this rig setup for 10 years, and it was mind blowing to see the shifting TW when empty, empty plus water, RZR loaded, gas tanks full vs empty, etc.... stunning to to see 600lbs TW shifting around depending on load configuration. I am further hindered by the fact I can not a find Class V receiver manufactured for my application and have to balance my TW to 1200lbs.

    By all means yes....... Get those idiots to get you a 2.5in shank or give you your money back and get one on your own. As for the bars once you become accustom to loading weight to rear of unit the 1400lb bars will likely be fine, but if you can get 1600lb bars swapped from the dealer then have them make it happen. The axle position on the trailer you mention is positioned to where when your gas tank is filled up and you MC is loaded you should see a substantial amount of weight come off the TW, a few hundred pounds.

    To get my TW under control when pulling it empty I fill up the gas tanks and load a bunch of heavy weight items directly against my back ramp to include tool box, 3.5ton jack, 2kwatt portable genny, cases of drinks, camp chef, charcoal, etc... When hauling the RZR I load that stuff equally balanced along the side walls from the ramp forward, although I have no slides and full flat floor which leaves me room.

    It will certainly take some playing around at the scales and a Sherline, but that piece of mind will have your nerves well settled when you know how your load pattern ultimately get you to the most comfortable tow.

    Click image for larger version. 

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