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  1. #1
    Seasoned Camper
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    Is this cable broken?

    I am having trouble with my black tank. It is very hard to open the valve, and the actuation feels "mushy". When I opened everything up to take a look, I see that the black outer sheath has come loose from the handle assembly. In the picture the white arrow points to the black tank cable, and you can see that the other cables have the outer sheath firmly inside the body of the handle assembly. When I pull the black tank handle the outer sheath gets pulled into the body of handle assembly, but when I push the handle the outer sheath pushes out as you see in the picture. Another symptom is that even when the handle is pushed in, there is still leakage past the valve. I may have two problems, but first...is my cable broken?
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  2. #2
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    It looks like the sheath is no longer crimped in the fitting. If this is causing play, it could be part of your valve issue.

    Rob
    U.S. Army Retired
    2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
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  3. #3
    Seasoned Camper
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    I talked to a couple of rv mobile mechanics, but neither was willing to tackle this type of problem at a campground. What do other full-timers do for this kind of issue?

  4. #4
    Site Sponsor NB Canada's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John303 View Post
    I talked to a couple of rv mobile mechanics, but neither was willing to tackle this type of problem at a campground. What do other full-timers do for this kind of issue?
    Not much of a “mobile tech” if they are not mobile


    2021 Imagine 2400 BH
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  5. #5
    Seasoned Camper
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    Yeah, the one did not want any liability in case some of the black stuff got onto the site. The other had concerns about dropping the belly and having to cut into piping to fix things. For now I am depending on the extra valve I put at the end, but I do not like having that handle accessible to any passer by.

  6. #6
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John303 View Post
    I talked to a couple of rv mobile mechanics, but neither was willing to tackle this type of problem at a campground. What do other full-timers do for this kind of issue?
    The vast majority of things that have needed doing, I've done myself. Most recently, I replaced the convection/microwave and the hydraulic manifold for the big slides (GD/Furrion/LCI supplied the parts under warranty). Dropping the underbelly would be a PITA, though.

    Rob
    U.S. Army Retired
    2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
    Full time since 08/2015

  7. #7
    Site Sponsor NB Canada's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    The vast majority of things that have needed doing, I've done myself. Most recently, I replaced the convection/microwave and the hydraulic manifold for the big slides (GD/Furrion/LCI supplied the parts under warranty). Dropping the underbelly would be a PITA, though.

    Rob
    I would be tempted to just slice it open where needed and tape it up with gorilla tape

    This is my first trailer with an underbelly
    Can’t say I am a fan. We don’t camp in the off season so heating of tanks is unnecessary
    I like the idea of easy access to everything


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  8. #8
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Now that @NB Canada mentions it, I cut an access flap in the underbelly on our Reflection to insulate some water lines and repair the heating ducts. I repaired it with underbelly repair tape designed for mobile homes... worked well. The issue is pinpointing where the gate valve is located before you cut.

    Rob
    U.S. Army Retired
    2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
    Full time since 08/2015

  9. #9
    Paid my dues 😁 FT4NOW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John303 View Post
    Yeah, the one did not want any liability in case some of the black stuff got onto the site. The other had concerns about dropping the belly and having to cut into piping to fix things. For now I am depending on the extra valve I put at the end, but I do not like having that handle accessible to any passer by.
    Not a very good mobile tech, I replaced a black and gray valve in our Momentum while we were living in it at a campground. As long as you take proper precautions, it's not a big deal. I drained the tanks as best I could, laid out tarps and then laid out plastic over the tarp with absorbent on top of that. Once the initial spillage occurs, wrap up the absorbent and plastic and the tarp is still in place while the repair is made.

    Depending on which valves you have will determine the repair. Valterra valve cables can be replaced without removing the valve. On my Momentum, they had LaSalle Bristol valves which requires the entire valve to be removed for cable replacement. I used Valterra valves for the replacements.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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  10. #10
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by FT4NOW View Post
    Not a very good mobile tech, I replaced a black and gray valve in our Momentum while we were living in it at a campground. As long as you take proper precautions, it's not a big deal. I drained the tanks as best I could, laid out tarps and then laid out plastic over the tarp with absorbent on top of that. Once the initial spillage occurs, wrap up the absorbent and plastic and the tarp is still in place while the repair is made.

    Depending on which valves you have will determine the repair. Valterra valve cables can be replaced without removing the valve. On my Momentum, they had LaSalle Bristol valves which requires the entire valve to be removed for cable replacement. I used Valterra valves for the replacements.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    I see 2 items on the GD parts website related to valves. Any idea how to tell what goes where? One kind for black and one kind for gray? The first one is a bristol valve? They look like they are glued on, so to replace them do you have to cut them off and splice other pieces in?

    I do like your description on how you handled working on things. I may resort to that if the mobile mechanic route does not pan out.

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