Washer/Dryer plumbing and venting woes - 377MBS

[BWSTGDS]

Pulling the W/D to clean up the connections/hoses/vent. Quite a bit of lint collected in the dryer and vent hose elbow, and the hose was partially crushed/ripped open where it entered the wall. Going to investigate how to improve the flow here.



Sliding out the washer, it's scary what was done to connect the drain hose, and where the dryer vent was installed. I can't really blame the previous owner who installed the vent, since Grand Design put their location sticker in that spot.



I've researched a 2018 and 2020 model of my fiver for dryer vent locations, and see it's in a better spot farther back in the closet vs what my 2019 had.



On this forum, I see some of you have run into this bad location sticker placement. I'd like to see your install pictures if you can point me to them. I'd like to salvage the existing vent location if possible, and route a new vent hose back where it needs to go.

I really like how traveldawg did his install, pulling the back of the closet out to gain more direct vent placement, but don't want to drill a second hole in the side of the camper.



https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...o-Washer-Dryer

[Calbar]

Thanks for posting this. I don't have a solution for your problem but appreciate the post since it may help me avoid a similar issue when I put a W/D in my 378MBS at some point.

Rob

[Second Chance]

Yeah, the very experienced techs at our dealership didn't install the vent where the factory sticker was. I guess they learned from experience and put it in a better place. (We have the same W/D closet you do.) Thanks for posting for others - especially the pics.

Rob

[BWSTGDS]

I appreciate the feedback. This gets more interesting. Removed the drain pipe and see the guts of the Hepvo waterless trap pulled up into it. The washer drain hose was tucked inside it. Guessing they had trouble initially with the drain working, and solved it this way.



Not sure I can get it working again properly, but will give it a try. If I clean it up and push the bladder back into place, will it still seal? I'm not sure it will.

A replacement Hepvo trap is about $40 on amazon - might just do that.

[traveldawg]

I've been following your thread over on the Ford forum too.

What a shame that whoever installed that W/D did such a butcher job.

Part of the reason for us putting in a combo unit was to allow access to the water controls (after I raised them). I had serious considered moving the water valves to the empty area to the right of the closet in a way I could access them from the front of that area. It would have required a bit of wood work, but nothing serious; maybe put them behind a door to conceal them. It was important to me that they could actually be used and turned off when not washing cloths.

You can consider raising that drain pipe so the washer's drain tube doesn't stick into the valve.

oh - I also replaced all the flex hose from the basement up with PEX and replaced the valves GD used. I should have put in a drain point down there too but it isn't so important since we never have to winterize.

[BWSTGDS]

Trying to gather the thoughts of both forums on this journey - thank you for taking a peek over at FTE. The content will be somewhat duplicated here and there.

That is tempting to put the valves facing the bedroom behind a door of some sort, but I think I will leave them, and just extend the drain pipe up to the outlet box like you mentioned to clear the trap. I'm staining a piece of paneling right now to cover that jagged cutout.

I have these valves in the basement to cut off water to the W/D if need be.

[BWSTGDS]

Continuing to tear into this W/D closet. Pulled the back off to extend the dryer vent hose slot as far as possible. Slot is cut and ready.

One batt of insulation has moved out of place - should be hugging the front cap. @traveldawg, How did you secure it?



A new cover is cut, stained and ready to install, once the drain is extended from the trap to the outlet box, and a new vent hose installed.

[BWSTGDS]

Went with traveldawg's method of insulation retention - used bailing wire to prevent it from falling too far if it does move.



I could not get my nailer to attach the rear panel to the aluminum frame. Ended up screwing it in place, just at the top. The bottom friction/rug is holding it tightly.

Also removed the outlet trim plates, for use on more visible outlets in the rig. The tabs are pretty fragile on these. Another reason to replace the outlets with standard ones as necessary.

Vent hose



Just enough clearance now with the newly cut vent slot to allow it to pass behind the dryer without being partially crushed. I did not need the restrictive 90 degree vent fitting that I removed previously from the dryer itself - there's plenty of room on the left side of the closet for the vent hose to curve away from the dryer.

I should have inverted the upper electrical receptacle, so that the dryer plug is oriented with the cord downward. Wondering why Splendide crafted the dryer plug opposite the washer plug - maybe in case the two plugs share the same outlet?



Much better flow from the outside vent. Noted the closet door does not quite shut now - the inside door handle touches the washer, due to the washer being as far forward as it can be for vent hose room - I need to find a lower profile inside handle.

[BWSTGDS]

Ended up removing the inside knob. On this passage handleset, the inside knob can be deleted by removing a snap ring, and then cutting back the latch actuator.



Good enough for an RV closet.

[Mechanic Bob]

Ended up removing the inside knob.

Just wanted to THANK YOU for providing a very informative thread.