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Thread: No Brakes

  1. #21
    Fireside Member
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    I had the problem on my 337 where my truck, while idling, would pull the camper forward with the brakes on full power. Turns out the brakes on the front axle were working, some what, and the brakes on the rear axle would not engage. I don't believe the brake shoes ever touched the hubs,----which leads me to my advice because it ultimately solved my problem.

    First, using an amp meter, ohm meter, and other available tools, trace down the electrical problem that's likely located somewhere between the junction box and the magnets. Make a written note of where you found the problem.

    Second, shytcan the electric brakes along with the written note mentioned above and install electric/hydraulic disc brakes.
    Last edited by grassmaster; 04-29-2021 at 07:36 PM.

  2. #22
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by FT4NOW View Post
    The trailer wiring fault message on a Ford means there is a short on the trailer brake circuit and will not apply power to the brakes in that case.
    When we bought our "new to us" 2006 F250 we had the same problem. We had been pulling our Layton travel trailer since 1988 with many different vehicles with no issues. When we got our F250 we immediately got the error and no brakes...

    Ultimately, after a couple of hours troubleshooting in a blizzard, I found that the polarity of the trailer brakes was reversed. I swapped the polarity in the J-box where the light/brake cable connected to the trailer...No more fault and lots of brakes.

    I'm an electrician and I cannot explain why this was so, unless there were surge suppressing diodes in the circuit, but I don't think so?
    Frank and Char + Maya, Newport, Michigan. 2016 Solitude 379FL/2006 F250 6.0 diesel w/dually conversion. 4th rain-sense roof vent, two ceiling fans, Kodiak disc brakes, Carlisle G 14-ply tires, Water Miser x2, final dump valve, water header tank, fridge cond fan switch, outside range exhaust, elec hot water anode, filtered drinking water, triple battery box,

  3. #23
    Left The Driveway
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    Quote Originally Posted by fez111 View Post
    When we bought our "new to us" 2006 F250 we had the same problem. We had been pulling our Layton travel trailer since 1988 with many different vehicles with no issues. When we got our F250 we immediately got the error and no brakes...

    Ultimately, after a couple of hours troubleshooting in a blizzard, I found that the polarity of the trailer brakes was reversed. I swapped the polarity in the J-box where the light/brake cable connected to the trailer...No more fault and lots of brakes.

    I'm an electrician and I cannot explain why this was so, unless there were surge suppressing diodes in the circuit, but I don't think so?
    At a rally a few days ago, I worked on a new RV that had no breaks. There was a short on the hot side of the brakes. Turned out the factory installed a ground from the frame to the brake magnet wires on the left side of the front axle. Then they hooked up the wires to the trailer connector with that grounded side on the brake pin. Had it been reversed, it would have worked fine.

    And, I agree with another comment: Dump the magnets and get electric/over hydraulic disc. Works so much better.
    Last edited by Beekeeper; 04-29-2021 at 07:55 AM.

  4. #24
    Left The Driveway
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    It took awhile but I finally discovered what my problem was. First, thanks again for all he comments and help that was offered. When I took it in to a different shop, they discovered that when the dealership installed the weight distribution hitch, they installed the clamps that go on the trailer over the brake wires. This grounded out the wires resulting in no breaks. The wires were on the underside of the frame so you couldn't see them. Once they reconnected the wires, I had breaks. Sometimes the simple problems are the most difficult to solve.

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