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  1. #1
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    Water pump won't shut off and there is air in the lines

    Just bought a used 2020 GD 310 GK and started to operate the water system in my driveway before we head out camping. I first sanitized the FW tank. I pumped the solution into the FW tank then filled the tank. This is where I think I screwed up. I probably should have filled the tank first with the Nautilus in the "Power Fill Tank" settings till almost full then pumped the chlorine solution. When I filled the tank with city water I had the Nautilus valves in the "Sanitized" position. It took longer than I thought it should and now after I found plumbing diagrams on this site i realized that I pushed 80 gal of water through the pump while it was turned off. When I started the pump in the "Dry Camping" valve positions to clear the lines of antifreeze and push the chlorine solution through all the fixtures I found that the pump runs continuously and there is air in the line that won't purge....did I damage the pump by filling the fresh water tank in the "Sanitize" valve position? I have read many posts on this site and have confirmed there are no air leaks in the lines and have also installed a shut off valve on the inlet of the city water connection in case the check valve was defective. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2
    Left The Driveway
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    Water pump won't shut off and there is air in the lines

    Quote Originally Posted by Parkerga View Post
    Just bought a used 2020 GD 310 GK and started to operate the water system in my driveway before we head out camping. I first sanitized the FW tank. I pumped the solution into the FW tank then filled the tank. This is where I think I screwed up. I probably should have filled the tank first with the Nautilus in the "Power Fill Tank" settings till almost full then pumped the chlorine solution. When I filled the tank with city water I had the Nautilus valves in the "Sanitized" position. It took longer than I thought it should and now after I found plumbing diagrams on this site i realized that I pushed 80 gal of water through the pump while it was turned off. When I started the pump in the "Dry Camping" valve positions to clear the lines of antifreeze and push the chlorine solution through all the fixtures I found that the pump runs continuously and there is air in the line that won't purge....did I damage the pump by filling the fresh water tank in the "Sanitize" valve position? I have read many posts on this site and have confirmed there are no air leaks in the lines and have also installed a shut off valve on the inlet of the city water connection in case the check valve was defective. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
    If your water pump keeps turning on when all of your valves (faucets) are shutoff then you are losing water pressure somewhere. Most likely there is a leak in the water lines or your check valve in the pump is bad. Make sure you double check for any leaks (my low point drains were leaking because I didn’t re tight en the plugs tight enough). Also, what do you mean there is still air in the lines? Are you saying that no matter how long you leave the faucet open air is still coming out?


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    Last edited by DW1976; 05-11-2021 at 06:05 PM.
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  3. #3
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    That's correct, there is still air in the lines, all faucets, no matter how long I leave them open. Which again, points to a leak somewhere, I just can't find it.

  4. #4
    Site Sponsor NB Canada's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parkerga View Post
    That's correct, there is still air in the lines, all faucets, no matter how long I leave them open. Which again, points to a leak somewhere, I just can't find it.
    I have no idea how the “nautilus” system works but where does it draw in antifreeze?
    Is it possible this line is open and it is sucking in air?


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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parkerga View Post
    That's correct, there is still air in the lines, all faucets, no matter how long I leave them open. Which again, points to a leak somewhere, I just can't find it.
    With NO pressure in the system;

    1) Open and close your low point drains. Make sure they are closed
    2) Cycle ALL valves on the Nautilus panel (turn each valve fully one way then the other). Do they all "feel" the same (same drag, same solid stop, etc.)? Not unheard of to have an internal O ring get knocked out of position - typically valve will bind up or turn very easily.
    3) Check the fresh (city) water inlet. There should be a cone shaped filter screen washer. Make sure the cone is facing out. If it is facing inward, that will depress the check valve and let air enter. Make sure the cap is on the inlet fitting.
    4) Make sure the outside shower handles are turned off (on Nautilus panel) and the spray port (in front of main entrance door) sealed (nothing plugged in - maybe plug in and remove hose a few times).
    5) Make sure the anode rod is installed and sealed in the water heater. Is there sealant (tape or dope) on the threads?
    6) Pull the angled panel behind the Nautilus panel (from inside the basement/pass through). You will find the water pump there. Check all the lines and fitting to and from the water pump. Any leaks/drips? Same for the connects on the rear of the Nautilus panel. Also check the screen filter on the inlet of the water pump. They have a tendency to crack and let air into the system.
    7) Check that all faucets are closed. With system on and pressurized and all faucets closed (off), check each faucet, shower and toilet for any leaks (look for drips, listen, use a paper towel under each to see water drips, etc.).

    Good luck and let us know what you find.

    Chris
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
    2018 Solitude 310GK

  6. #6
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    Thanks CoChris, I found the leak. It's on the 90 degree elbow that is threaded into the black handled Kantleak valve on the Nautilis panel. The elbow is a male thread, valve body is female, it's leaking at the threads. It looks like I will have to unscrew the valve from the panel so I can make enough room to rotate the fitting 360 degrees to tighten it, then it will line back up with the PEX fitting the 90 is plumbed to. I'm not familiar with these valves and don't know how they seal to the 90 degree elbow, o-ring? I don't see any teflon tape on any of them. Please reply if you know how these seal and if my plan of just tightening one rotation will seal the leak. Thanks

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parkerga View Post
    Thanks CoChris, I found the leak. It's on the 90 degree elbow that is threaded into the black handled Kantleak valve on the Nautilis panel. The elbow is a male thread, valve body is female, it's leaking at the threads. It looks like I will have to unscrew the valve from the panel so I can make enough room to rotate the fitting 360 degrees to tighten it, then it will line back up with the PEX fitting the 90 is plumbed to. I'm not familiar with these valves and don't know how they seal to the 90 degree elbow, o-ring? I don't see any teflon tape on any of them. Please reply if you know how these seal and if my plan of just tightening one rotation will seal the leak. Thanks
    Sorry, I do not know how those fitting seal, but others on here have reworked their valves. Hopefully someone can chime in with the answer. I have been fortunate and not had any leaks (knock on wood) and honestly, been afraid to touch anything for fear of starting a leak.

    Again, I wish you the best of luck.

    Chris
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
    2018 Solitude 310GK

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