Novice question, ref new Reflection 337RLS and how to hook up to city water

[Cowboychincs]

Sorry for a novice question... I looked at the Owners Manual on the Nautilus control panel and see the warning message shown below.
I am assuming that this means that there is some sort of "check valve" within the fresh water hose connection port??? If not, where is it?
I am also assuming that if I have all of the levers in the proper placement for "city water" hook up, and the fresh water hose connected to the park or home hydrant, that I can just turn on the water at the hydrant and that the city water pressure will furnish water to all of the inside places, sink, shower, toilet....

Am I correct?

I also purchased a adjustable water pressure gauge that I can hook up to the park/home faucet to make sure it is set to the proper pressure....

The new 337RLS has dump valves below the Nautilus... and if I read correctly, pulling it out opens the dump valves and pushing them in closes them... correct?

Anything else I need to be aware of plumbing related?

[MoonShadow_1911]

Sorry for a novice question... I looked at the Owners Manual on the Nautilus control panel and see the warning message shown below.
I am assuming that this means that there is some sort of "check valve" within the fresh water hose connection port??? If not, where is it?
I am also assuming that if I have all of the levers in the proper placement for "city water" hook up, and the fresh water hose connected to the park or home hydrant, that I can just turn on the water at the hydrant and that the city water pressure will furnish water to all of the inside places, sink, shower, toilet....

Am I correct?

No need to apologize! We've all been there!

You are correct!

I also purchased a adjustable water pressure gauge that I can hook up to the park/home faucet to make sure it is set to the proper pressure....

Good job! That is something that will keep your plumbing intact! I say mine no higher than 40 PSI, although you can do up to 60 PSI.

The new 337RLS has dump valves below the Nautilus... and if I read correctly, pulling it out opens the dump valves and pushing them in closes them... correct?

Again, you are correct, however, NEVER open the dump valve unless you are connected to a dunno station, or the sewer connection at a park. Unless you really, really, REALLY, want to clean up a nasty biohazard spill. Unless you are absolutely sure the tank(s) are empty.

Also, make sure you open the black tank first, let it drain completely, then flush the tank via the black tank flush port on the panel; then do the grey tank. Try to remember not to do it the other way due to potential toilet waste water entering the grey system, even though it's just your sinks and shower waste water tank, it could be bad; why take the chance.

Just remember, "B (black) comes before G (grey) in the alphabet".

Anything else I need to be aware of plumbing related?

You will need to lube the dump cables and dump gates occasionally.

I recommend buying an assortment of PEX connectors, either plastic or brass; elbows, straight ones, Ts, etc. Also pick up some PEX tubing in red and blue. I have 5' of each right now. Oh, if you do the barbed connectors (instead of the Shark Bite connectors, you will want a crimp tool and PEX crimp rings as well. All 1/2 inch.

I'm sure others will chime in here as well.

Sent from my phone using Tapatalk

[Cowboychincs]

Wonderful!!! Thanks so much for the affirmations and the extra hints on what comes first, etc....
Can you please elaborate on why I may need to get some red/blue PEX tubing and connectors???

Again... a lot of help... thanks for helping this 'new kid on the block"

[Cowboychincs]

OK Folks... another beginner question...

Took the 337RLS out for a trial run for 3 days... put my water pressure regulator on the park hose bib. I then placed an on/off valve on the outflow side of the water pressure regulator, turned the water on, the gauge showed 45 PSI... so I adjusted it down to 40 PSI before I opened the on/off valve to the RV. I noticed that once the on/off valve was open to the coach, that the PSI on the gauge dropped to around 25-30 PSI...

Soooo, the question is, did I approach it correctly, or should I adjust the water pressure "after" I open the on/off valve to the RV? I am not sure which way makes the most sense... if I was measuring my home water pressure, I would just attach a gauge (with no outflow) to a hose bib and turn on the the water to see what my home water pressure is...

It seems that in the approach I took at the park, that my water pressure was pretty low inside the RV... so how best to measure the correct water pressure?

Thanks for any advice!

[bfs673]

OK Folks... another beginner question...

Took the 337RLS out for a trial run for 3 days... put my water pressure regulator on the park hose bib. I then placed an on/off valve on the outflow side of the water pressure regulator, turned the water on, the gauge showed 45 PSI... so I adjusted it down to 40 PSI before I opened the on/off valve to the RV. I noticed that once the on/off valve was open to the coach, that the PSI on the gauge dropped to around 25-30 PSI...

Soooo, the question is, did I approach it correctly, or should I adjust the water pressure "after" I open the on/off valve to the RV? I am not sure which way makes the most sense... if I was measuring my home water pressure, I would just attach a gauge (with no outflow) to a hose bib and turn on the the water to see what my home water pressure is...

It seems that in the approach I took at the park, that my water pressure was pretty low inside the RV... so how best to measure the correct water pressure?

Thanks for any advice!

Your method works just fine. Pressure will drop once there is flow; this is normal. Some regulators are better compensating for this than others. You want to protect the trailer from the max pressure.
Your plumbing is rated for 80psi MAX. Do NOT run at 80 PSI; but you can generally run at 50 MAX without drama.


Additionally, and there are numerous posts on this site about this, the plumping used is a mixture of 1/2" PEX and 1/2" flex tubing (NOT PEX). All fittings (elbows, T's, etc.) are PEX. The flex line does not fit the PEX fittings properly, and is susceptible to leaks. This is not something to create anxiety, but be aware and monitor. Some (myself included), re-plumbed the trailer to use 100% PEX.

[Cowboychincs]

Your method works just fine. Pressure will drop once there is flow; this is normal. Some regulators are better compensating for this than others. You want to protect the trailer from the max pressure.
Your plumbing is rated for 80psi MAX. Do NOT run at 80 PSI; but you can generally run at 50 MAX without drama.


Additionally, and there are numerous posts on this site about this, the plumping used is a mixture of 1/2" PEX and 1/2" flex tubing (NOT PEX). All fittings (elbows, T's, etc.) are PEX. The flex line does not fit the PEX fittings properly, and is susceptible to leaks. This is not something to create anxiety, but be aware and monitor. Some (myself included), re-plumbed the trailer to use 100% PEX.

Thanks tons... I started out at 40 PSI... thus far, that is as high as I have used. My Furrion tankless water heater is acting funny... and someone suggested that I may need to increase the PSI a tad (like 45-50) to see if that helps the heater function better... so I thought I would check with folks and see what the "norm" is and then not to exceed that value...

Again, thanks for the help... glad I am using the pressure control valve the correct way...

[bfs673]

One other note; there is a check-valve just behind the city water inlet hose connection. I know on a standard water heater, there is another check valve.
These are VERY cheap check valves, but never really noted them to reduce flow much.

[SGT ROC]

Remember, the tankless water heaters require pretty much full flow to work properly, and then a bit to fill the lines with hot water.