2600rb exterior leak below shower

[Josh_gski]

Hi all. I did a walk around today and noticed a small drip from the side valance below the light by the sewer dump. Upon a closer look, it is coming from above the vapor barrier (not corroplast) along the very exterior wall edge. It is fresh, clean water so I can only assume it something from the shower. A look through the shower inspection cover doesnt show anything wet or leaking.
Is this a common leak place? I see no good way into it other than the shower being removed.
Also, from day 1, my shower surround blind rivets are loose in many places. Is it possible water is getting behind the surround, dripping down, and exiting through my leak?

Update - I can confirm that it must be a hose or fitting leak because I turned the supply off for the weekend and came back to zero pressure on my gauge, so it bled out instead of holding as it usually does. Based on the location, the toilet supply line could also be a very good candidate. I'm going to try and dissect some stuff. I've already looked at the HW tank and it is not leaking any advice on opening stuff up is appreciated. Dealership repairs are not an option at this time, I need to fix this now instead of 4 months out.

*If it seems like I'm just talking to myself, it's because I pulled this from another site that I posted to first, on accident. My intent was to ask this group instead.

Josh

2021 GD 2600rb

[FT4NOW]

Welcome to the forum.
Depending on your setup, your shower faucets are either mounted to a removable piece of plastic that comes off with 4 screws or there is an access panel on the reverse side. Either one of those should let you see behind the shower and get an idea of what is leaking. If you dont see anything leaking back there, then you can explore the toilet route. I don't know where your water pump is located, but if it's in the vicinity, sometimes the filter they install on the water pump leaks. I'm not familiar with your floorplan, so I dont have too much more advice other than follow all the water lines and see which one is the culprit.

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[Josh_gski]

Ok, no leak from the toilet line. I removed the shower knob plate and confirmed two of my fears.
1) the cold water connection is leaking at the threads, dripping down the interior paneling, pooling up and exiting the trailer.
2) the white blind rivets are going through the shower surround, and attaching through the 1/8" wood paneling. So water can (and is) leaking through them, and getting the paneling wet. I am blown away that Grand Design is building them this way.

So I can stop the leak and turn water back on, but now I've got some pretty major, and inaccessible, water damage concerns.

[NB Canada]

I wouldn’t worry about it
It will dry


2021 Imagine 2400 BH
2018 GMC Sierra 4x4 crew

[Ynot4me2]

Since you found and fix the leak (great on you), it might be a good idea to call GD and have it noted or filed or what ever its is they do just so if down the road (1 yr) from now if something arises from this you might be covered. I'd be tempted to lower part of the coroplast and take a look and maybe ventilate a bit.

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[Josh_gski]

Since you found and fix the leak (great on you), it might be a good idea to call GD and have it noted or filed or what ever its is they do just so if down the road (1 yr) from now if something arises from this you might be covered. I'd be tempted to lower part of the coroplast and take a look and maybe ventilate a bit.

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Thanks, I was thinking about calling them, but hadn't thought about it being documented. Coroplast section is dry. But the vapor barrier on the outside of the frame rail is wet, as is the wood. We're suppose to have to high 80's this week, so maybe it will just take care of itself.

[AZMike]

Ok, no leak from the toilet line. I removed the shower knob plate and confirmed two of my fears.
1) the cold water connection is leaking at the threads, dripping down the interior paneling, pooling up and exiting the trailer.
2) the white blind rivets are going through the shower surround, and attaching through the 1/8" wood paneling. So water can (and is) leaking through them, and getting the paneling wet. I am blown away that Grand Design is building them this way.

So I can stop the leak and turn water back on, but now I've got some pretty major, and inaccessible, water damage concerns.

I had my shower faucet plate off when I replaced my shower head, for the sole purpose of rotating the faucet 180 degrees so that the shower head hose exits from the bottom instead of the top. Why do they mount them like that? I also noticed that the hoses (yes, the cheap reinforced hoses) were cut to exact length to the faucet. There was barely enough length to remove them from the faucet and reattach them. Luckily, I have no leaks there. But another thing that concerned me is how much flex there is in the shower floor close to the drain. It can't be good for the drain pipe to be flexing like that every time you step near the drain. So I did the following mod. You can only see the support on the left side of the photo, but I did also glue one on the right side of the drain.

[SteveO]

If you wanted to seal the plastic push clips, you maybe able to pull them, and then add some sealant around the threads and the back of the head. Then simply push them back in, which should force the sealant into the joint and between the shower wall and the pin.

[Josh_gski]

I had my shower faucet plate off when I replaced my shower head, for the sole purpose of rotating the faucet 180 degrees so that the shower head hose exits from the bottom instead of the top. Why do they mount them like that? I also noticed that the hoses (yes, the cheap reinforced hoses) were cut to exact length to the faucet. There was barely enough length to remove them from the faucet and reattach them. Luckily, I have no leaks there. But another thing that concerned me is how much flex there is in the shower floor close to the drain. It can't be good for the drain pipe to be flexing like that every time you step near the drain. So I did the following mod. You can only see the support on the left side of the photo, but I did also glue one on the right side of the drain.

Mike, I did the same thing with the floor. I didn't like the movement either.

[Josh_gski]

If you wanted to seal the plastic push clips, you maybe able to pull them, and then add some sealant around the threads and the back of the head. Then simply push them back in, which should force the sealant into the joint and between the shower wall and the pin.

That's my plan, I dont feel good about leaving them as is