Next Question. Which Ford F-150?

[CWSWine]

I'm sure I will get a lot of comments on this statement. The Towing Capacity and the GCWR are based on SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) J2807 standard. The J2807 standard uses a 15% pin weight or 10% tongue weight using a basic work truck with the requirement of not exceed either the GVWR and or GAWR. So if the dealer tells you are good go if you are within towing capacity and GCWR they need to add to the with a pin weight at 15% or 10% tongues weight and higher pin weights percentages may reduce your towing capacity and GCWR to not exceeding the GVWR requirements of J2807 that the truck was tested under.
The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) J2807 States the exceed in GVWR is a reason to fail to tow test. (Par 5.4)
http://fifthwheelst.com/documents/to...ds-2016-02.pdf

[Tigger1]

@ASHLittle

Good feedback so far. To help a little more with learning about weights and capacities like GVWR, etc., I came across this guide some time ago that I found helpful. I’m not recommending the hitch but it might help you visualize things a little better. I’m a visual learner and find pictures/diagrams helpful.

https://www.curtmfg.com/towing-capacity

[Rhertzy]

Hi, I have a Ford F-150 Lariat with Max tow and 7000 pound GVWR. I tow an Imagine 2670MK with it. You should have plenty of capacity for your 7500 lb TT GVWR rating and dry tongue weight under 600 lbs. I am close to the limit on my 7000 lb GVWR, but Your trailer is much lighter than mine. Just remember that any after market add ons add to your GVWR. Your TV GVWR must include you, your passengers, a full tank of gas, anything else you load in the truck and your tongue weight. My engine is the 3.5 liter twin turbo eco boost with 3.55 gear ratio.

[attaboy]

Okkkkkkaayyyy. I've got it. Don't ask me why your explanation hit home. But I got it.
UNTIL YOUR LAST PARAGRAPH. LOL
What in the world do you mean?
° How much they can pull???
° They can all pull a lot???
° But many can't carry???
°. Many what can't carry what?
What does that mean? I'm serious. Trying hard.

Thanks to each of you. I'm dead serious about needing to understand all aspects of this. I never thought I'd look so dense. I've been making light of all of it, because I think if you cant laugh, you're already defeated. I can follow your explanation, so I was rejoicing. Then your last comment stopped me in my tracks.

Angie

Angie:
Most of us were in your position at one time. I would urge you to take the time to fully understand the "How much can it pull" Vs
The "How much can it carry". Not only is it necessary to understand you and your family's safety can depend on it.
Pulling it down the road is not the important thing. How much can your vehicle stop safely and handle in an emergency situation (an idiot cuts you off in heavy traffic).
There is a group of us (me included) who are members of the 3 truck club because I did not take the time to understand the dynamics.
Hope this helps:
Bob A.

[ronrichards]

We have a 2019 2250rk. My tow vehicle is a 2015 f-150 4x4 crew cab with the 3.5 ecoboost. Pulls this TT just fine. I did add airbags as an added convenience. Don’t really think I needed them but more piece of mind.
Had no issues in mountains to Lake Tahoe and to Oregon and California coast. Hope this info helps

[Heavy Half Ton]

If you are thinking F150 and rv in the same sentence, you would be remiss to not order up the hdpp. Payload is the first number to fall in tow math. My xlt 4X4 crew cab has a payload of 2500, plenty to bring a reasonable trailer, generator, groceries, and a few friends. More payload than any other half ton, titan included.
Keep in mind 2” receiver limitations. 1320 lbs and they are maxed out. There is a reason 3/4 tons have a larger receiver.

[MachWun]

.

The Cargo Carrying Capacity, or CCC, is the weight the tow vehicle can safely carry (the 30 lbs example). This does not include the weight of a full tank of fuel and all fluids,

Fyi, on my GMC, that rating INCLUDES all fluids and full tank of gas.

[MachWun]

Need to do the math.

Add all you passenger weights, your typical gear, any kayak racks, etc. that you will have in the truck (in the bed of truck, inside, on roof, ...). I would add a couple hundred pounds for buffer IMO. Assuming you have a specific RV in mind, you will have to include trailer tongue weight as well.

Now look at the RV Gross Vehicle Weight (the limit of the RV and everything you can put inside her / on her. That could be what you are towing.

Now you have payload capacity, and tow weight. Add those two together and you have the 3rd crucial number...gross combined Vehicle weight.

If you want to get into further detail there is axle load ratings, but that comes down to how you distribute the load. With the 3 above, you can go shopping.

IMO, I have a fair amount left in my capacity on each of the 3 ratings. At some point I might add something for a trip that needs to consume it. And I will travel some decent grades. I do not want to find out what it is like trying to slow down or stop fully loaded to the limit.

[Heavy Half Ton]

Fyi, on my GMC, that rating INCLUDES all fluids and full tank of gas.

The yellow payload compliance sticker on the drivers door jamb is federally mandated, the parameters to calculate it are the same for every manufacturer. Full fluids and nothing else in or on the vehicle. Basically, as it rolled out the factory door but with full fluids.

[Heavy Half Ton]

The math is really pretty simple.

Take the yellow payload sticker weight, and from that, subtract everyone and everything that will go in or on the truck. You, mate, dog, kids, wood, groceries, generator, 100lbs for a wd hitch. With the remainder left, divide by .13, and this will be super close to the max loaded weight of a trailer that you can tow without going overloaded.

Again, keep in mind 2” receiver limits. Some only allow 1000lbs tongue weight or less. If you order an hdpp, it comes with max tow included. You need max tow to get the stronger receiver hitch.