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  1. #1
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    Dometic model DM2882RBFX no power or operation on 110 or propane

    We took our new trailer out for the first time and our Dometic fridge was working on shore power and propane prior to leaving. When we arrived at our campsite the fridge wasnít working.

    Iíve checked:

    - all fuses and breaker in the black box inside the trailer
    - both 3 amp and 5 amp fuses on the back of the fridge.
    - ensured propane tank is full and also plugged into shore power with no operation
    - the check function on the fridge isnít working when holding the power button in the off position for 3 seconds then in the on position for 1 second.
    - the light doesnít turn on when opening the fridge door as well as the control panel on the bottom edge of the freezer has no lights showing that itís operating

    Iím thinking a faulty control board as the trailer is level and no lights are on in the fridge or on the control panel

  2. #2
    Site Sponsor
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    I have the same problem with our new 1 week old Reflection. Checked out everything same as you. Took it to the dealer and they say the fridge venting was not installed properly at the factory. This was causing it to over heat and causing it to lock out. They dealer is pulling the fridge and reworking the vent. We haven't even had the camper out on its first trip!

  3. #3
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    SE MI for a bit, wanderlust will kick in soon !
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    It would be nice to know what trailers both of you have, could indicate a production issue.

    To quote another site team member - Rob (Second Chance)

    " You can create a signature by going to:

    Forum Actions (on menu bar) -> Edit Profile -> Edit Signature (under My Settings on the left) "
    Marcy & Gary
    2014 Grand Design - Reflection 303RLS
    2015 GMC Denali 3500 Duramax Longbed SRW
    2003 F350 - retired
    Michigan
    We're in trouble now, the dog are bloggin'!
    https://3dogsandatrailer.wordpress.com/


  4. #4
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    I have a 2021 Reflection 150 Series 295RL

  5. #5
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    Welcome to my first post. Regarding the power problem with Dometic fridge, DM2882RBFX, I just experienced a similar problem on our third night out in our 2021 travel trailer, model 17MKE. As mentioned in previous posts, all the electrical current fuses were working. I found a thermal fuse had gone open. There are a number of thermal protection devices on the schematic posted on the panel near the refrigeration module. At least one is a type that resets itself. The one that failed is sacrificial type, like a common electrical fuse that once it blows, it must be replaced. It was located near the heating unit. Tough to find this kind of replacement part online. I found what appears to be a Dometic assembly which includes stuff I don't need for $50. I found individual fuses online, 5 for $6.80. But you would need to be a little handy with component level electronics repair to tackle it on your own. I temporarily bypassed the thermal fuse to verify this was the fix. What is especially curious is within several days of this failure, my water heater totally stopped working. It too was a blown thermal fuse. Bypassing it cured the problem. The two appliances are mounted side by side at the back of the trailer. The daytime temperature was 90ish and we were parked where the afternoon sun was hitting both appliances. Interesting coincidence.
    Caution: I do NOT plan on operating either of these appliances with the thermal fuses bypassed on other than closely monitored test conditions. This would be unsafe and I do not recommend it. I already have an appointment to take the trailer to my dealer for certified repair.
    Last edited by Mark_Retired; 06-05-2021 at 10:17 PM. Reason: Safety related info.

  6. #6
    Left The Driveway
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    OP did you ever get this squared away? I have the exact same issue in my 31MB.

  7. #7
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    Actually, no. As of this writing I have not yet taken the trailer in for my repair appointment two days from now. Further closely monitored testing with the open thermal fuse bypassed revealed that the freezer is cooling normally but the refrigerator section is not cooling. I may not have a chance to look into this before the trailer goes back to the dealer. Expect an update once I know more.

  8. #8
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    I have a 2021 Imagine 2400BH. The dealer accidentally sent me the wrong control board so I hope to have the new one before Friday when we are going on our next camping trip so we donít have to use coolers.

    I hope it isnít the venting for the fridge. If that is the case and it locks out after overheating it wonít respond at all on the control panel inside the freezer door?

    Just curious if there is any more trouble shooting I can do to rule out improper venting or I just need to install a new control board to rule out.

    Thanks,
    Nathan

  9. #9
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    If your refrigerator is model DM2882RBFX, and the battery is connected to the trailer, be sure there is +12 VDC at J4 on the controller board. Start by checking for +12 VDC at the white two terminal screw terminal strip located at the center bottom of the fridge access opening. The terminal with the red wire is +12DC, the other (black) is GND. If +12 is present, check for +12 at J4 on the controller board using the same GND reference as in the previous measurement. You will need to remove the board cover.
    If +12 is not present, trace the red wire from the terminal strip to your right over to the burner assembly. you will want to remove the burner assembly cover plate (3 Philips head sheet metal screws). It first connects to a thermal snap switch on the heater stack. You should read +12V on both terminals if the switch is good and not actively overheated. This type of device opens when in over temp, and closes when it cools off. Continue tracing the red wire to a black sheath that is attached to the rear panel by tabs of bent sheet metal. Inside is the thermal fuse that is a one time fail device.
    DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. Free the black sheath with red wire from its bindings and you can slide the sheath one way or the other on the wire to expose the thermal fuse. It is crimped to the wires. The output wire (red) from the thermal fuse goes to J4 of the controller board. Measure the resistance across the fuse. It should be zero ohms. If it measures open, it must be replaced. It is a Microtemp G4A00 with TF 152C (fails at 152 degrees C) I purchased a pack of 5 on Amazon for about $7 to have as emergency spares. I spoke with several service groups describing my operating symptoms before I found the bad fuse and they both felt it was the controller board. Only changing the board will not repair the blown fuse. The thermal fuse could have blown due to another failure. So it could still need the controller board. Alas, I am still waiting on my dealer's service group to perform their diagnosis. Hope this helps.

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