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  1. #1
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    Latches for Exterior Trailer Storage and

    The handles/latches for the exterior storage doors on my new travel trailer don't seem to be effective. Thankfully, nothing has been stolen, but I noticed that the second I brought my trailer home, I could just pull the doors open while the latches were locked and with no additional force when pulling. After spending stupid amounts of time examining the problem, I believe that it is because the strike plate is too low for the latch to sufficiently seat itself into the grove. With some further thought (imagine smoke escaping from my ears!), I figure that I can fix the problem by raising the strike plate by installing spacers underneath (though this would mess with the rubber gasket that surrounds the compartment opening). Would this be an effective fix, or should I choose another course of action?

    Second, the Step Above step system at the rear door of my trailer... I determined that it is the reason why I have to slam the outside door with a great deal of force in order to get it to shut when the stair are down. When the stairs are down, the flat metal piece that holds the stairs and is bent at a 90 degree angle over the door stop protrudes from the outside wall of the trailer by about a quarter of an inch. This, in turn, is causing the bottom lip of the outside door to bend (in order to compensate for the added space the exists when the stairs are deployed). I have an idea on how to fix it, but I wanted to check in with people smarter than me to gather any additional recommendations. My idea is to move the portion of the hinge to the stairs that is butted up against the door's threshold and move it back (also understanding that adjustments need to be made to the latch the meets up in the door frame to lock the stairs in place during travel).

    Thanks everyone. I look forward to any advice/insight that you may be able to provide.

  2. #2
    Site Sponsor JCR GD's Avatar
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    Both of your solutions should do the trick. A word of caution with the slam latch catches... be sure to seal really well after installing spacer and rubber (caulk well under catch plate - don't trust the rubber gasket thingy completely) other wise water will find it's way through the plate notch into the floor of the compartment.
    Jim (& Sharon)
    2015 GD Momentum 385TH - SOLD
    For Sale - 2015 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 Lariat w/ AirLift bags, Titan 65 gal. OEM replacement fuel tank.
    The toy:
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  3. #3
    Rolling Along OurNewEra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleeparound View Post
    The handles/latches for the exterior storage doors on my new travel trailer don't seem to be effective. Thankfully, nothing has been stolen, but I noticed that the second I brought my trailer home, I could just pull the doors open while the latches were locked and with no additional force when pulling. After spending stupid amounts of time examining the problem, I believe that it is because the strike plate is too low for the latch to sufficiently seat itself into the grove. With some further thought (imagine smoke escaping from my ears!), I figure that I can fix the problem by raising the strike plate by installing spacers underneath (though this would mess with the rubber gasket that surrounds the compartment opening). Would this be an effective fix, or should I choose another course of action?

    Thanks everyone. I look forward to any advice/insight that you may be able to provide.
    I have one passthrough door that works as designed and one that does not. As you described, with the latch 'locked' I can pull on the handle and it opens. My solution is the same as yours. I am going to cut a metal spacer plate from some aluminum and put it under the strike plate and then seal with silicone. Another option would be to score the sealant around the door opening, remove all the screws inside the bottom of the frame, then shim on the inside the door frame to raise it up. Seems to me to be more work and I don't want to mess with the sealant around the door frame. I believe I saw a post where someone did the fix this way.

    Oh, and by the way, once you and I both do this work . . . the slam latches are still not secure. You can slide a thin metal object in the gap between the door to door frame behind the latch and rotate the object to lift the latch up. Slam latches can be 'slammed' because the latch is never locked. The lock only locks the handle. The 'latch' always moves freely. Therefore it can be pried up from behind and the door pulled open. There is nothing secure about an RV. But being able to just pull a door open doesn't sit well with me so I will be making the fix for that. I may even try to fabricate the spacer so it protects the back of the latch from being pried open. That, however may be a bit tricky. May be a job for a 3D printer and my son.

    Your description of the step problem sounds like two potential issues. 1) the steps were mounted in the wrong spot on the floor and need to be moved inward - which is what I think your solution is. 2) your steps when down are two high. Need to retract the extendable legs/feet to allow the plate at the top of the steps that goes over the threshold to sit down a little further. Sometimes the legs/feet on my steps are 'in between' settings and I have to use some small blocks under each foot to get them to sit low enough and allow for easy closing of the door.
    Mike & Lisa
    Central Florida
    2021 Imagine 2970RL
    1996 Chevy K3500 Crew SRW 7.4L Gas

  4. #4
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    Thank you both for your recommendations. I did end up going to ACE and buying a strip of brass that I cut so it would fit under the strike plate. I have noticed the lack of effectiveness of lock overall as the hole cut for the door is large enough for a size able gap that would allow anybody with a butter knife to open it as described. But, any lock is only ever meant to be a deterrent.

    Unfortunately, it’s 110 degrees here daily and my ability to work outside is limited by how much sweat I am willing to lose. I did dry fit the raised strike plate and it seems to do the trick. Is there any specific type of caulk anybody would recommend as I complete the install?

  5. #5
    Rolling Along OurNewEra's Avatar
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    Good exterior clear silicone caulking will work. I usually get GE brand.
    Mike & Lisa
    Central Florida
    2021 Imagine 2970RL
    1996 Chevy K3500 Crew SRW 7.4L Gas

  6. #6
    Site Sponsor JCR GD's Avatar
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    ^^^^ same here.
    Jim (& Sharon)
    2015 GD Momentum 385TH - SOLD
    For Sale - 2015 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 Lariat w/ AirLift bags, Titan 65 gal. OEM replacement fuel tank.
    The toy:
    2017 RZR XP 1000 EPS SE

  7. #7
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleeparound View Post
    The handles/latches for the exterior storage doors on my new travel trailer don't seem to be effective...... I believe that it is because the strike plate is too low for the latch to sufficiently seat itself into the grove.
    .
    I had the same with my 22mle. It turns out the latches were installed backwards ! Use a screwdriver to remove and then flip the latch. That should fix that issue. I cannot speak to your second issue.
    Mitch and Alisa Frank
    2020 Imagine XLS 22 MLE
    2020 RAM 2500 Diesel

  8. #8
    Rolling Along OurNewEra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrffrank440 View Post
    I had the same with my 22mle. It turns out the latches were installed backwards ! Use a screwdriver to remove and then flip the latch. That should fix that issue. I cannot speak to your second issue.
    In this instance , or at least mine, the problem is not caused by the latches being installed backwards. The problem is caused because the gap between the door and the door frame is too large. With the door frame being too low the latch barely catches the strike plate. There is enough 'play' in the handle that pulling on it WHEN IT IS LOCKED causes the latch to lift up a bit. Enough to come out of the strike plate and the door opens.

    The root cause is that the bottom of the door frame was screwed down too far when it was installed at the factory. There is at least a quarter inch difference in the bottom-of-door to door frame gap between the two doors. I have one pass through door that has no problems and the other one does have this problem.
    Mike & Lisa
    Central Florida
    2021 Imagine 2970RL
    1996 Chevy K3500 Crew SRW 7.4L Gas

  9. #9
    Rolling Along OurNewEra's Avatar
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    I got around to fixing my slam latch that could be pulled open when locked. I cut a shim out off 1/8" aluminum as shown in my picture.

    I put black butyl between the pieces and the frame as well as the screw holes. I replaced the very tiny OEM screws with the larger ones. Also moved them out so they went into the wall tubing shown in the other picture. All worked out well.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mike & Lisa
    Central Florida
    2021 Imagine 2970RL
    1996 Chevy K3500 Crew SRW 7.4L Gas

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