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  1. #1
    Setting Up Camp nateritter's Avatar
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    Question Black water / flush hose: why a garden hose?

    I've had this question since starting to research buying a rig and found no answers yet.

    In our purchase, we were given a garden hose that has some kinks in it from being stored in too small of a black water container. It's quite an old hose anyway, so I was thinking of replacing it.

    But why does everyone use a standard garden hose for the black water? It's big and bulky and typically less flexible than, say, a Zero-G. Is it the cost? Or will the Zero-G blow if you don't put the regulator on it in some cases (I assume you don't keep your regulator on when you attach your black water hose, right?)?

    Second, I see RhinoFLEX advertised heavily but I also hear they are a pain to work with because it's not flexible when cold. I assume this is why the typical garden hose is used compared to RhinoFLEX.

    All this begs the question, what's your recommendation for black water/flush hoses and why?
    Last edited by nateritter; 06-23-2021 at 11:13 PM. Reason: adding clarification
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  2. #2
    Site Sponsor avf100's Avatar
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    You can use whatever hose you want, but have 2 hoses. 1 designated for the black tank flush, and 1 for the fresh water. There is a possibility that the black tank hose could get contaminated and so you don't want to use that same hose for the fresh water.
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  3. #3
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    What he said, keep two separate hoses, one for black tank flush and one for fresh water. A lot of people usually get the cheapest hose they can for the black tank flush and yes they can be a pain. A lot of people get a better expandable hose for black tank flush like the Zero-G or bullet, they shrink up and are easier to stow away. Using the black flush I do not use a regulator. I use a cheaper expandable hose for the flush like the zero-G or bullet.
    If the water connection has two taps I leave the fresh water line turned on, attach the black tank flush hose to the other tap and use full water pressure. Of course if you only have one tap I either use a "Y" or just disconnect the fresh line, connect the black flush and get it done, then switch back. I never leave the black tank flush hose attached. It is always stow away until needed.
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    Seasoned Camper Sportsdad60's Avatar
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    After flushing, when you shut the water off and disconnect the hose, some water actually comes OUT of the black water flush inlet.
    That alone is why you should use a dedicated black water hose for flushing.
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    Paid my dues 😁 FT4NOW's Avatar
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    The water that comes back out is actually clean water, it comes out because of the vacuum breaker/back flow preventer in the system that is installed at a higher location than the tank. The only real chance for contamination is if you leave the hose connected and then the water doesnt drain out at all since the vacuum breaker cant work properly. I use one hose, but I dont use it to spray out the inside of my sewer hoses, I have sewer hose twist on caps, I dont need the inside of it sprayed out.

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    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    As for a Zero-G hose "blowing," there is very little pressure in the black tank flush system since the sprayer is always open on the terminal end. I always kept two hoses to run all the way from the park water connection but, this past year, changed my ways. Inside the utility bay I've always had a water pressure regulator and a 90-degree elbow to reduce stress on the city water inlet fitting. I've recently added a lead-free brass Y just before the pressure regulator and got a 3' "metal flex" hose to run from the Y to the black tank flush inlet. I disconnect and drain this short hose at the black flush inlet after each use so, as @FT4NOW said, nothing gets contaminated. It takes me less time now and I don't have to mess with a second long hose. It's especially nice during cold/freezing weather. I'm a happier camper.

    Rob
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  7. #7
    Setting Up Camp nateritter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    As for a Zero-G hose "blowing," there is very little pressure in the black tank flush system since the sprayer is always open on the terminal end. I always kept two hoses to run all the way from the park water connection but, this past year, changed my ways. Inside the utility bay I've always had a water pressure regulator and a 90-degree elbow to reduce stress on the city water inlet fitting. I've recently added a lead-free brass Y just before the pressure regulator and got a 3' "metal flex" hose to run from the Y to the black tank flush inlet. I disconnect and drain this short hose at the black flush inlet after each use so, as @FT4NOW said, nothing gets contaminated. It takes me less time now and I don't have to mess with a second long hose. It's especially nice during cold/freezing weather. I'm a happier camper.

    Rob
    I like this method with the Y and regulator.

    I understand the disconnecting of the flush hose and reason for 2 hoses as mentioned by others.

    Thank you for explaining the pressure situation in the flush hose. Makes sense.

    It’s always interesting to hear the reasoning people have for connecting the regulator where they do. Some at the spigot, others in the bay. Same for filters. Have you had any problems with pressure in the filter breaking it if it’s prior to the regulator?

    So for your setup, let me make sure I understand this. Let me know if I have this right.

    City water inlet > elbow > regulator > filter > Y > hose > source

    Black flush inlet > metal flex hose (disconnected when not in use) > Y > hose > source

    And the Y > hose > source is shared and knobs flipped according to whether you’re flushing or getting fresh water.

    I’m guessing on the filter location and of course skipping smaller hoses that might connect some parts. But is that about right?

    Would it make sense to maybe add to this brass quick connect adapter to the places that need connecting/disconnecting often like the flush inlet / metal flex hose?
    Last edited by nateritter; 06-24-2021 at 09:54 AM.

  8. #8
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nateritter View Post
    I like this method with the Y and regulator.

    I understand the disconnecting of the flush hose and reason for 2 hoses as mentioned by others.

    Thank you for explaining the pressure situation in the flush hose. Makes sense.

    It’s always interesting to hear the reasoning people have for connecting the regulator where they do. Some at the spigot, others in the bay. Same for filters. Have you had any problems with pressure in the filter breaking it if it’s prior to the regulator?

    So for your setup, let me make sure I understand this. Let me know if I have this right.

    City water inlet > elbow > regulator > filter > Y > hose > source

    Black flush inlet > metal flex hose (disconnected when not in use) > Y > hose > source

    And the Y > hose > source is shared and knobs flipped according to whether you’re flushing or getting fresh water.

    I’m guessing on the filter location and of course skipping smaller hoses that might connect some parts. But is that about right?

    Would it make sense to maybe add to this brass quick connect adapter to the places that need connecting/disconnecting often like the flush inlet / metal flex hose?
    Almost got it, but not quite. I keep the pressure regulator and Y inside the utility bay to prevent freezing in the winter (the heated hose will not protect those components outside). The Solitudes and Momentums have a whole-house water filter (standard residential cartridge) inside the utility bay after the city water inlet. I'm going to do my "flow chart" in the direction the water flows:

    Park water connection -> hose (heavy-duty and will withstand the pressure) -> (the rest of this is inside the heated utility bay) Y with valves on each output -> water pressure regulator -> 90 degree elbow -> city water inlet -> whole-house filter -> house

    This way, the water for the black tank flush does not go through the pressure regulator nor the water filter (no need for either).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Rob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20210624_120620 (Medium).jpg  
    Last edited by Second Chance; 06-24-2021 at 10:15 AM. Reason: Trying to get image oriented properly!
    U.S. Army Retired
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  9. #9
    Setting Up Camp nateritter's Avatar
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    I'm going to do my "flow chart" in the direction the water flows:
    Yea, I realized I botched that after I posted. Heh. Thanks for seeing past it.

    Got it. Thanks for the pic too.

    I really like this setup. Less to buy, less to do, same effect. Super nice setup. This is so very helpful.

    Out of curiosity, why not use the Zero G for the water to the park water connection?
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  10. #10
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nateritter View Post
    ...Out of curiosity, why not use the Zero G for the water to the park water connection?
    I already had two good high-pressure hoses (heated and non-heated). I don't know how the Zero-G hoses hold up to sun, either. I might try one if/when my non-heated hose gives out. Whatever you get for your regular water hookup, make sure it's approved for potable/drinking water.

    Rob
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    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
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