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  1. #21
    Setting Up Camp
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    How far away is your dealer, campground or repair center? I ask because it would be great to test your setup on a known good source. I have read where some have trouble at the RV connector. While I would not think it would have passed PID with a fault, it is worth checking. If you are comfortable with electric DIY, you could remove the screws and pull the connector out of the RV. Using alligator clips on your voltmeter, turn your power back on and check your voltage at the back side of the connector. Those wires being loose or dirty would cause what you are seeing. RV Works on YouTube has videos on the Mach 8, but not sure they relate to your exact issue.
    2016 29RS
    2008 2500 Chevy Duramax Diesel CC LTZ
    Prev 5er 2010 Outback 321FRL
    1994 Chevy 6.5TD 2500 ext Cab
    25ft Coachman Catalina TT
    Skamper Pop UP
    Various tents
    ALL great memories:D

  2. #22
    Fireside Member jungleb0y's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lfytsmith View Post
    How far away is your dealer, campground or repair center? I ask because it would be great to test your setup on a known good source.

    FYI original post third line
    "Had it professionally inspected - on 50A shore power both AC's worked fine, cooled rapidly no issues."
    The only thing that works on a RV is the owner...
    Jared - 315RLTS - 2500HD

  3. #23
    Setting Up Camp
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    Did you or would it be possible to test with the dog bones you are using to take the 50 amp cord to 30 amp? Then you could eliminate your cords and leave only the new 30 amp house connection.
    2016 29RS
    2008 2500 Chevy Duramax Diesel CC LTZ
    Prev 5er 2010 Outback 321FRL
    1994 Chevy 6.5TD 2500 ext Cab
    25ft Coachman Catalina TT
    Skamper Pop UP
    Various tents
    ALL great memories:D

  4. #24
    Rolling Along
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    Having read all of these posts I see that no one ever asked what size wire was run to the 30 amp receptacle and how far it was run. The code book says a 30 amp circuit requires a minimum of #10 wire. However, if is is run a long distance the wire needs to go up at least one size. With minimum load like lights the current is minimal and the length is not so much an issue. But when the load is near the max ampacity of the wire there is a very pronounced and dangerous voltage drop that will havoc with any inductive load (motors).

    I have wired many swimming pools. The same rules apply. Most swimming pool pumps are rated for a 20 amp circuit. When the pump is more than 40 or 50 feet from the source I always jump from #12 to #10 wire so as to keep the voltage drop minimal so the pump won't burn up.
    Frank and Char + Maya, Newport, Michigan. 2016 Solitude 379FL/2006 F250 6.0 diesel w/dually conversion. 4th rain-sense roof vent, two ceiling fans, Kodiak disc brakes, Carlisle G 14-ply tires, Water Miser x2, final dump valve, water header tank, fridge cond fan switch, outside range exhaust, elec hot water anode, filtered drinking water, triple battery box,

  5. #25
    Site Sponsor
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    Quote Originally Posted by PharmaDoc View Post
    Setup is 30Amp service on separate breaker in house. Connected with 25' cord, whether 30Amp or 50Amp with 30A adapter.
    As I understand it, 50Amp RV service is simply 2 30Amp legs and the internal wiring feeds off individual legs - would 50Amp service make a difference?

    Short of a generator, any way to rectify?

    How do you handle this in a park with crappy power?
    No,you are mistaken about a 50amp RV service just being two 30amp legs! A 50amp service is TWO 50 Amp legs at 120 volts providing you with much more available wattage.
    30Amps x 120Volts = 3600Watts
    and
    50Amps x 120Volts = 6000 Watts
    6000Watts x 2 legs = 12000 Watts

    Therefore if it were simply two 30Amp legs you would only have 7200 total Watts available instead of the 12,000Watts available on a 50Amp RV service.
    Last edited by IBEW Sparky; 07-13-2021 at 11:44 PM.
    Bill & Colleen ~ Schwenksville, Pa
    2019 Reflection 337RLS
    2006 GMC Sierra 3500 8.1L V-8
    Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags
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    Rear Anti Sway Bar

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by PharmaDoc View Post
    Setup is 30Amp service on separate breaker in house. Connected with 25' cord, whether 30Amp or 50Amp with 30A adapter.
    As I understand it, 50Amp RV service is simply 2 30Amp legs and the internal wiring feeds off individual legs - would 50Amp service make a difference?

    Short of a generator, any way to rectify?

    How do you handle this in a park with crappy power?
    https://www.amazon.com/Hughes-Autofo...577544606&th=1

    Something like this will boost voltage by 10%. This doesn't work with GFCI outlets. I just have the 30A surge and brownout protector. My permanent site has decent power, but I might get one if we run into issues on the road. I don't work for Hughes. Get whatever you like, but keep the voltage up. Low voltage kills A/C compressor motors. Eventually the motor will start to overheat, pull more amps, and then the breaker starts tripping. It really starts to go downhill then.

  7. #27
    Site Sponsor Petrovsky's Avatar
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    Wondering if this has been resolved. I have heard electricians wiring a 30A 120V correctly as this is ok for a 30A RV but somewhere the 30A outlet was wired as a 30A 220V and it caused all kinds of damage as you can imagine.

    Not familiar with your set-up but I would check how that 30A plug was wired at the electrical box and exactly how much amperage you can draw on each leg (l1 & l2). Is it possible that you can only draw 15A or less on each leg. This may cause you issues.

    In a 30A RV you get the full 30A on one leg minus amperage draw from the convertor, lights, and other items.

    I have a 20A conventional plug with adapter to 30A RV cable. I have no issues running the AC on old Jayco (Coleman) and the Furrion on the Imagine each without a soft start.
    Pierre & Tara

    2021 Imagine 2600RB
    2020 GMC Sierra SLE 1500
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  8. #28
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    My center A/C would only run about 60 seconds and then trip the breaker just like the OP bedroom A/C. My two other A/C's would run fine, no issues. Found out that the center A/C was wired with 14 ga wire and a 15 amp circuit from the factory, whereas the other two are 12 ga wire and 20 amp circuits. Stumped GD techs at the Rally. All A/Cs are 15,000 BTU units. Dealer is replacing the center A/C under warranty. They said the 15 amp wiring wasn't the root cause. I get this done early March so will see if this really fixes the problem or not. Mine tripped breakers at multiple RV parks so not an external power issue. Perhaps the OP's problem is a bad unit.
    New: 2021 Solitude 380FL
    Prior: 2016 Alpine 3600RS
    Tow: 2017 F350 Diesel Dually

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