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  1. #11
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grammy&Grandad View Post
    Titan fan kit is the way to go. You won't regret it. Wire them to the 12v supply direct. They have their own controller, and it is set to come on at 113 degrees F. Turns off at 68 degrees. I actually installed 2 sets. I don't know that my OEM fans ever come on at all anymore - and I really don't care. Have been trouble free for 9 months straight and the fridge cools to low 30s routinely.
    Maybe they make different models of the Titan, but on mine, when in auto operation, the fans come ON at 68 degrees wherever the temperature probe is located, and then at around 113-115 degrees, the fans will be at their top speed.....again, if they are set to auto, not manual.
    2016 F350 CrewCab Dually
    2018 Momentum 394M...Heavily Modded!
    2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000 GT+
    Excessive Payload is a Wonderful Thing

    "If it ain't fast....It ain't Fun"

  2. #12
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lewber View Post
    We have a 2021 Momentum 397 with the dreaded Norcold 2118sst refrigerator.

    We were boon docking for the last 2 weeks and running the fridge off of propane. The day before we left the fridge wasn't working, long story short.... the burner would ignite and run for about 10-15 minutes. The compartment would get hot and when the fans kicked on, the 5a fuse on the control panel (back of the fridge) would blow. After going through several fuses, we gave up on it.
    We are now back on a full hookup site. Thew fridge ran fine on AC power for 3 days until yesterday....the same 5a fuse started blowing again.
    Im wondering, bad control board AND bad fans??
    Anyways, I switched the 5a fuse to a 7.5a fuse and it has been 24 hours (knock on wood) without the fuse blowing.

    We are in the Northern upper peninsula of Michigan, on our way to Montana next week.
    The closest RV tech is 2.5 hours away, so I am wondering what my fellow Grand Designers think?!

    Thanks!
    I agree with most that have posted here about the fans being the cause of the blown 5 amp fuse. Those fans pull almost 5 amps and if any of them start getting to the point where the bearing are getting bad.....or even if your battery voltage is a little low (that causes them to pull more amperage), the 5 amp fuse will blow. Norcold says that it is perfectly fine to put a 7 1/2 amp fuse in there instead of the 5 amp, and if that solves your issue, don't sweat the 7 1/2 instead of the 5 amp....it OK to do.
    2016 F350 CrewCab Dually
    2018 Momentum 394M...Heavily Modded!
    2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000 GT+
    Excessive Payload is a Wonderful Thing

    "If it ain't fast....It ain't Fun"

  3. #13
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lewber View Post
    We are in the Northern upper peninsula of Michigan, on our way to Montana next week.
    The closest RV tech is 2.5 hours away, so I am wondering what my fellow Grand Designers think?!

    Thanks!
    Interesting. I'm in MT headed to the UP in a week. :-)

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    Maybe they make different models of the Titan, but on mine, when in auto operation, the fans come ON at 68 degrees wherever the temperature probe is located, and then at around 113-115 degrees, the fans will be at their top speed.....again, if they are set to auto, not manual.
    I agree the Titans are the way to go. My 2118 was also blowing the fuses even after going to 7.5 amps. With the original fans disconnected, I installed two sets of the 120mm Titans, one in each vent cover (bottom drawing air in and upper blowing it out) and wired them into the connections on the controller board. Refrigerator runs perfectly now.
    Dennis, Pat, Prince and the Lady - Western New York
    2018 Solitude 310GK- 2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW - Blue Ox Super Ride

  5. #15
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    Had the same problem, switched to a 7.5 amp fuse...problem solved

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