Black water tank valve replacement

[Always Learning]

Thanks Sparky and Gronk for the input. As Sparky mentioned, I opened up the underbelly on the door side just enough to get a flashlight in there and to see where the valve is. It doesn't look to difficult to roll back the chloroplast from the front to the axles as Sparky mentioned. Interesting that the GD site shows the camper needing a 96" cable but doesn't say for which tank. My guess is that the front gray and black both take a 72" cable and the 96" goes to the rear gray tank for the kitchen sink. I ordered one of each so should be good to go.


My only concern is wedging in the new valve after taking the old one out. Doesn't look like there's alot of "give" in the black plastic pipe.

While you are down there make sure that the set screws that hold the cables to the valves are all tight. I replaced the kitchen gray valve then about a week later the bath gray cable pulled loose at the set screw so I had to take everything apart again.

[IBEW Sparky]

Thanks Sparky and Gronk for the input. As Sparky mentioned, I opened up the underbelly on the door side just enough to get a flashlight in there and to see where the valve is. It doesn't look to difficult to roll back the chloroplast from the front to the axles as Sparky mentioned. Interesting that the GD site shows the camper needing a 96" cable but doesn't say for which tank. My guess is that the front gray and black both take a 72" cable and the 96" goes to the rear gray tank for the kitchen sink. I ordered one of each so should be good to go.

My only concern is wedging in the new valve after taking the old one out. Doesn't look like there's alot of "give" in the black plastic pipe.

You're welcome! Keep us posted on your progress and please take plenty of pictures to share with others... knowledge is important to all of us and helps keep repair costs to a minimum.
I only had my chloroplast open for about an hour but neglected to take any pictures... I've got to get better at documentation with some photos.

[timlisajax]

Will do. Plan to do this later next week.

[timlisajax]

Finished the black tank valve project about a week ago. I went a different route than replacing cables and valves. Research showed that some folks have success with the installation of a zerk fitting on the valve and putting grease into the cavity where the valve gate opens and closes. Before I did the mod, it took a level of effort of about 9 to open and close the gate valve on the black tank. After installation of the zerk and putting grease in, the level of effort is now about a 4. So I'm going to ride this out and see how it goes. I may regret going this route, but its all about learning and saving others from the same mistakes. Time will tell if this was a good idea or not.

I did order a 3" Valterra valve, a 1.5" valve and a 72" and 96" cable. Those will now travel with us along with a 4' section of chloroplast.

It was quite an eyeopener lowering the chloroplast. There were quite a few wires just resting on the chloroplast which I zip tied out of the way. Some of them were resting on cross-members, so I put them in a loom and secured them. The worst part of all of this was getting the chloroplast re-installed. Of course it came off easy and I took it loose all the way to the tires. Getting it back on required my wifes help and kind of lifting it up as I put a screw back in from side to side. The frame is upside down when they install the chloroplast at the factory and when it's right side up, gravity takes over., and for me, made putting it back on pretty difficult. If I do this again, I will cut out a 3' section and when finished will overlap a new piece of chloroplast and tape it up. Will figure out the best way to secure it later.

First thing I did was give the tank a good rinse. Then I lowered the front to make sure all the water was in the tank. Then I raised the front to empty the tank. The tanks are mounted front to rear with the low point of the black tank being in the rear. Access to everything was good. All the pulls were run cleanly with no binds or kinks and secured at the valve. There were no leaks or anything hence the decision to leave well enough alone and go the zerk fitting route.

Sorry about the pictures. I tried everything to get them right side up (turned every pic 90 degrees) but no luck. Got annoyed so it is what it is.

Here's a pic with the chloroplast dropped and the underside of the foil. Quite a mess with the wiring.


Cleaned up the wiring


Here's a pic of the 3 pull cables behind the easily removable wall in the basement.


Another picture of the pulls to the tanks.


Lubed all the cables

[timlisajax]

Was limited to 5 pictures, so here we go.


This is the gate valve to the black tank before I put in the zerk.

Attachment 37971




And after the zerk.

Attachment 37972



Last thing I decided to do was to put in a piece of plexiglass so I could see behind the water center. That foil pan has a little alarm in it that will go off it something starts to leak.



Attachment 37969


That's it. Looking forward to any thoughts - negative or positive.Attachment 37970

[timlisajax]

Ok Another attempt with the pictures.

Before the zerk.


Zerk Installed.



Plexiglass panel to see behind water center.

[IBEW Sparky]

@timlisajax

Glad you got it all repaired and back together. I read on another forum that the best way to temporarily hold up the coroplast was to slide a 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" plywood under it and work it up with an automotive floor jack. Still don't think that would be a one man job!

Also, to make sure your pictures post correctly try editing them slightly before posting them. Rotating them doesn't count as editing them... try resizing (trimming) them just the least little bit and then save the pictures. It works every time.

[timlisajax]

@timlisajax

Glad you got it all repaired and back together. I read on another forum that the best way to temporarily hold up the coroplast was to slide a 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" plywood under it and work it up with an automotive floor jack. Still don't think that would be a one man job!

Also, to make sure your pictures post correctly try editing them slightly before posting them. Rotating them doesn't count as editing them... try resizing (trimming) them just the least little bit and then save the pictures. It works every time.

Excellent advice on the pics. I rotated them 90 degrees, saved them, another 90 degrees, etc. and nothing worked. I will try trimming them down next time. Would've never thought of that. Thanks.