Locked out twice...what's up with the lock?

[DECelt]

We're not new at this, but this is a new one on me. Twice in two days our exterior door locked itself and locked one of us out. It was in the unlocked position...is there an issue that I don't know about. This is a first in 15 years of Raving!

Could it be slamming the door that causes the lock to engage?

Thanks.

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[AZMike]

We're not new at this, but this is a new one on me. Twice in two days our exterior door locked itself and locked one of us out. It was in the unlocked position...is there an issue that I don't know about. This is a first in 15 years of Raving!

Could it be slamming the door that causes the lock to engage?

Thanks.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

I have never had that happen to my in all my years of RVing, and I never lock the latch. I use only the deadbolt.

[Fsalmy]

We're not new at this, but this is a new one on me. Twice in two days our exterior door locked itself and locked one of us out. It was in the unlocked position...is there an issue that I don't know about. This is a first in 15 years of Raving!

Could it be slamming the door that causes the lock to engage?

Thanks.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

This has happened to us once on our 2022 378. Fortunately, we had the extra key in the truck. We have to slam our door to get it to close (see more on that below) and we suspect that caused the lock to engage.

On day 1 after picking it up from dealer and towing to a nearby campground, I found myself locked inside after doing a few mods on the outside and then going inside to check something. The deadbolt was not engaged, but I could not get the door to open. I could move the latch handle about half the normal opening distance. I was afraid I was going to break it if I tried to force it further. I was by myself at the campground and didn't see anyone around. My tool bag was sitting on the outside steps, but fortunately, I had brought one screwdriver inside with me. I removed the interior side of door lock and was able to get my screwdriver between the strike plate and the latch and with the other hand, force the door open. A strike plate screw had backed out of it's stripped hole and the head caught the door lock. Fortunately, I didn't have to try one of the emergency exits.

Upon close examination, not only was one of the strike plate mounting holes in the jamb/frame stripped, but the both the strike plate and door jamb were bent/dented. When leveled, the door is very difficult to close and the deadbolt latch tends to partially engage when slamming the door shut. Bot the dealer and I have adjusted as best as possible, but in the end, we had to end up ordering an entire new entry door and frame under warranty. Looking at the reveal around the outside of the door, it is clearly installed at an angle. The door jamb at the strike plate had to be hammered inward to allow the door to close. Over a month later and we are still waiting on parts delivery. In the meantime, closing the door has become more and more difficult to the point where I have had to remove the strike plate in order to get the door closed. It was either that or Gorilla tape. Moral of the long story, check your strike plate and door alignment.

By the way, we had the rig professionally inspected before we took delivery and then I did a 4-5 hour PDI. This was not evident to the professional inspector, the senior RV tech or me. Could towing it 50 miles have caused something to shift? The rig was level at the dealer during the PDI, but we have found if hitched and not leveled, the door seems to open just fine. Jamb/frame and strike plate are all still bent and dealer believes it likely came from the factory that way. It really takes close examination to see the bends/dents in the door frame.

[DECelt]

I have never had that happen to my in all my years of RVing, and I never lock the latch. I use only the deadbolt.

Us too!

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[DECelt]

This has happened to us once on our 2022 378. Fortunately, we had the extra key in the truck. We have to slam our door to get it to close (see more on that below) and we suspect that caused the lock to engage.

On day 1 after picking it up from dealer and towing to a nearby campground, I found myself locked inside after doing a few mods on the outside and then going inside to check something. The deadbolt was not engaged, but I could not get the door to open. I could move the latch handle about half the normal opening distance. I was afraid I was going to break it if I tried to force it further. I was by myself at the campground and didn't see anyone around. My tool bag was sitting on the outside steps, but fortunately, I had brought one screwdriver inside with me. I removed the interior side of door lock and was able to get my screwdriver between the strike plate and the latch and with the other hand, force the door open. A strike plate screw had backed out of it's stripped hole and the head caught the door lock. Fortunately, I didn't have to try one of the emergency exits.

Upon close examination, not only was one of the strike plate mounting holes in the jamb/frame stripped, but the both the strike plate and door jamb were bent/dented. When leveled, the door is very difficult to close and the deadbolt latch tends to partially engage when slamming the door shut. Bot the dealer and I have adjusted as best as possible, but in the end, we had to end up ordering an entire new entry door and frame under warranty. Looking at the reveal around the outside of the door, it is clearly installed at an angle. The door jamb at the strike plate had to be hammered inward to allow the door to close. Over a month later and we are still waiting on parts delivery. In the meantime, closing the door has become more and more difficult to the point where I have had to remove the strike plate in order to get the door closed. It was either that or Gorilla tape. Moral of the long story, check your strike plate and door alignment.

By the way, we had the rig professionally inspected before we took delivery and then I did a 4-5 hour PDI. This was not evident to the professional inspector, the senior RV tech or me. Could towing it 50 miles have caused something to shift? The rig was level at the dealer during the PDI, but we have found if hitched and not leveled, the door seems to open just fine. Jamb/frame and strike plate are all still bent and dealer believes it likely came from the factory that way. It really takes close examination to see the bends/dents in the door frame.

Thanks. I'll be back to the rig this afternoon and can play around with it. If this is the worst of my problems I'm going gooda

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[TXkmpr]

You can lock the top door handle lock and open the door from the inside. If outside and you close the door, you are locked out.

This can happen if you have two doors and you usually keep one of the doors closed andboth the deadbolt and door handle lock engaged. For some reason if inside the trailer and you want to go out the double locked door you unlatch the deadbolt go outside and close the door and your locked out.

[Fsalmy]

You can lock the top door handle lock and open the door from the inside. If outside and you close the door, you are locked out.

This can happen if you have two doors and you usually keep one of the doors closed andboth the deadbolt and door handle lock engaged. For some reason if inside the trailer and you want to go out the double locked door you unlatch the deadbolt go outside and close the door and your locked out.

I should add that it was the deadbolt that engaged on our door when we slammed it shut. Because of the door misalignment, the deadbolt only engages about half way, even when trying to lock it from the inside. But, that half-way is enough to keep us from opening the door. I have an RV Lock that I tried to install recently to see if that would help while we wait on our new door. After messing with it for an hour or so, I couldn't get the door closed with the RV Lock, so put the original back on.

[DennisK]

This has happened to us once on our 2022 378. Fortunately, we had the extra key in the truck. We have to slam our door to get it to close (see more on that below) and we suspect that caused the lock to engage.

On day 1 after picking it up from dealer and towing to a nearby campground, I found myself locked inside after doing a few mods on the outside and then going inside to check something. The deadbolt was not engaged, but I could not get the door to open. I could move the latch handle about half the normal opening distance. I was afraid I was going to break it if I tried to force it further. I was by myself at the campground and didn't see anyone around. My tool bag was sitting on the outside steps, but fortunately, I had brought one screwdriver inside with me. I removed the interior side of door lock and was able to get my screwdriver between the strike plate and the latch and with the other hand, force the door open. A strike plate screw had backed out of it's stripped hole and the head caught the door lock. Fortunately, I didn't have to try one of the emergency exits.

Upon close examination, not only was one of the strike plate mounting holes in the jamb/frame stripped, but the both the strike plate and door jamb were bent/dented. When leveled, the door is very difficult to close and the deadbolt latch tends to partially engage when slamming the door shut. Bot the dealer and I have adjusted as best as possible, but in the end, we had to end up ordering an entire new entry door and frame under warranty. Looking at the reveal around the outside of the door, it is clearly installed at an angle. The door jamb at the strike plate had to be hammered inward to allow the door to close. Over a month later and we are still waiting on parts delivery. In the meantime, closing the door has become more and more difficult to the point where I have had to remove the strike plate in order to get the door closed. It was either that or Gorilla tape. Moral of the long story, check your strike plate and door alignment.

By the way, we had the rig professionally inspected before we took delivery and then I did a 4-5 hour PDI. This was not evident to the professional inspector, the senior RV tech or me. Could towing it 50 miles have caused something to shift? The rig was level at the dealer during the PDI, but we have found if hitched and not leveled, the door seems to open just fine. Jamb/frame and strike plate are all still bent and dealer believes it likely came from the factory that way. It really takes close examination to see the bends/dents in the door frame.

Same issue with our 377mbs. The door was hard to close, so I had the dealer adjust it. One day after setting up and leveling, the door wouldn’t open. It was jammed with the strike plate. I removed the strike plate and the door functions properly. Other than protecting the paint, is there a reason not to go without a strike plate?

[DECelt]

Same issue with our 377mbs. The door was hard to close, so I had the dealer adjust it. One day after setting up and leveling, the door wouldn’t open. It was jammed with the strike plate. I removed the strike plate and the door functions properly. Other than protecting the paint, is there a reason not to go without a strike plate?

In theory it provides more security, and I would think protects the door frame a bit. I tried some plumbers grease on the latch. So far, so good.

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[DRRVSERVICES]

Actually I have seen this several time, and you should NEVER have to slam a door. Period! I've had over 20 years working with locks for RVs and have see such poor alignment and non square doors it would shock you. There are easy little tricks, and yes please use striker and jamb plates. They are installed to keep the door secured, not just to protect paint. The door frames are only aluminum, the plates are steel for a reason. No different than a standard house lock, sure the frame is just wood, but the plates are metal for durability and security reasons. The plate may have to be adjusted vertically or horizontally to insure alignment. Too many times this is very poor on finished unit from most manufacturers. The doors are built and shipped, then installed on to a rolling earthquake so they may not be square. Adjustment of the plate cures almost all issues. Photos help if you can send some I'll surly try to give more direction.