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  1. #21
    Rolling Along
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    The available power from a 50A shore power is 100A, not 50. It's 59A per leg.
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  2. #22
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobLandry View Post
    The available power from a 50A shore power is 100A, not 50. It's 59A per leg.
    I think you meant...50A per leg......not 59 per leg. Yea, I know, the 9 and the 0 are right next to each other on the keyboard!
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  3. #23
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    I think it was obvious it was a typo, but thanks anyway..
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  4. #24
    Setting Up Camp
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    Since you’re running such heavy gauge wire, and are planning future expansion. I would have a 200 amp panel installed near the pads and branch out from there. IMHO

  5. #25
    Fireside Member jungleb0y's Avatar
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    Option 2 would be what I would install at my location for that distance. Lightening or static will want to go through the ground at the panel and human shorts want to go back to the source.
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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by PappaJohn View Post
    I am not a licensed electrician but 4/0 cable is rather excessive....
    I am a licensed electrician and I can unequivocally say that 4/0 Aluminum is what I use for 200 amp service/entrance wiring to a home. According to National Electrical Code (NEC), 4/0, 4/0, 4/0, 2/0 copper cable is good for 260 Amps per phase!

    There are new rules for installing power pedestals for RV's, including the requirement for a 30 Amp-220 volt receptacle and a GFI-protected 20 amp-120 volt outlet.

    Your electrician 'may' have included a deration factor for the length of the run. The NEC also says that two pedestals with the same feeder can be de-rated to 90%.

    One other thing... The NEC considers a power pedestal to be a "feeder", not a branch circuit. Therefore, although the circuit 'may' technically be allowed to not carry a neutral (white) conductor, I would highly recommend that you insist on a 4-wire feeder: That is two blacks, one white, and one ground (two ungrounded conductors, one grounded conductor, and one grounding conductor). If something were to happen to go bad with the grounding rod connection your entire trailer would go 220 volts and bad things could happen...

    The grounding (ground) wire is allowed to be smaller than the rating of the ungrounded conductors (black wires) according to a table in the NEC.
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  7. #27
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fez111 View Post
    I am a licensed electrician and I can unequivocally say that 4/0 Aluminum is what I use for 200 amp service/entrance wiring to a home. According to National Electrical Code (NEC), 4/0, 4/0, 4/0, 2/0 copper cable is good for 260 Amps per phase!

    There are new rules for installing power pedestals for RV's, including the requirement for a 30 Amp-220 volt receptacle and a GFI-protected 20 amp-120 volt outlet.

    Your electrician 'may' have included a deration factor for the length of the run. The NEC also says that two pedestals with the same feeder can be de-rated to 90%.

    One other thing... The NEC considers a power pedestal to be a "feeder", not a branch circuit. Therefore, although the circuit 'may' technically be allowed to not carry a neutral (white) conductor, I would highly recommend that you insist on a 4-wire feeder: That is two blacks, one white, and one ground (two ungrounded conductors, one grounded conductor, and one grounding conductor). If something were to happen to go bad with the grounding rod connection your entire trailer would go 220 volts and bad things could happen...

    The grounding (ground) wire is allowed to be smaller than the rating of the ungrounded conductors (black wires) according to a table in the NEC.
    Why would the NEC require a 220v 30 amp outlet? The TT-30 connector is a 120 volt 30 amp outlet for the camper, any 220 volt 30 amp connector would just confuse the users.

    In one of my earlier posts I warned the OP about Electricians wanting to wire the 30 amp outlet as 220 volt and not understanding that the 30 amp outlet is only 120 volts.
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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogercwhite View Post
    Hi,

    New to the travel trailer world and am setting up my trailer as a "destination" camper at a partially improved campsite. We have city water, a sceptic system and I have power to an entry pole. I am going to have an electrician run power from the entry pole about 160 feet to 2 gravel pads that a buddy and I have made, and have asked him to hook up a standard 50A/30A/20AGFCI RV pedestal at each pad. I have solicited 3 bids, and they're very close in price, but I don't know what I don't know....and I know that I've always paid someone to deal with electricity because I don't want to get fried. Now I'm more concerned about frying my trailer... Two bids are using 4 strand 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 and one bid proposed 3 strand 4/0-4/0-2/0 with a ground rod at the trailer. I'm using a Progressive Industries 50A surge protector at the pedestal of my trailer. Questions:

    1. Which type of wire (4 or 3 strand) do I want and why?

    2. Even with a grounding wire in the supply line, do I need to run a grounding rod from the trailer frame?

    Thanks in advance!
    Ok first thing is I believe the electricians are telling you 3 or 4 CONDUCTOR wire not STRAND. The strands are what make up each conductor and multi conductors bundled together in a single outer jacket are what makes up a cable. I have to ask is there or will there be a panel with a main circuit breaker on the pole at the meter location? Hopefully the answer is "yes". Assuming that there is a panel with a main circuit breaker there is no way individual branch circuit breakers wether it be 50, 60, or 70 Amp has the capacity in lug size for a 4/0 conductor.... a #2AWG conductor would be the largest wire you could fit on those breakers. More info is needed as to what you already have on your pole... meter only, meter and main distribution panel, size of panel... and what equipment will the electrician be installing.
    Last edited by IBEW Sparky; 08-02-2021 at 04:42 AM.
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  9. #29
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    In fact I run it on a 14-30R, 30 amp 240 4-wire dryer outlet with a proper adapter at home when loading it for a trip. (You can’t do that on an obsolete 10-30R, 3 wire dryer outlet because it doesn’t have a ground where a 4-wire does)[/QUOTE]



    You are confusing a "grounding conductor" with a "grounded conductor". The obsolete 10-30R would still have a ground conductor (usually bare or green) but not a neutral (grounded conductor) which could be either white or bare.
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  10. #30
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    Is my 30amp wired wrong?

    [QUOTE=SolarPoweredRV;384292]One issue that is very common with 30a (TT-30) outlet installs is that they are wired incorrectly by Electricians. The TT-30 connector is the same/similar to a 240 volt residential dryer outlet. Many Electricians have ignored/not remembered that the TT-30 is actually a 120v outlet and not a 240v outlet.

    Please ensure your Electrician knows the TT-30 is to be wired as a 120v outlet and that that is specifically written into the contract (so they can't say later that you did not specify 120v [even though it is their responsibility]).

    Additionally, I think the responses in the above posts have eliminated one Electrician from your consideration.


    I have my 2970 (50amp) plugged into a 30amp outlet at home. My Power Watch Dog shows 120v on each leg. Does that mean my outlet is wired incorrectly? If it is what damage could happen and how would I correct it?
    Last edited by Tripleblessing; 08-03-2021 at 11:47 AM. Reason: Missing word

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