RVLock Fit Problems on 2023 Momentum

[ldb20151]

All,

We wanted to add keyless entry to our new Momentum. The reviews for RVLocks seemed great so I ordered 2 -- one for each of our entry doors. Unfortunately I've discovered a fit issue. Using their online selection guide, we purchased the new V4, standard model (not compact). When installed, there's a substantial gap at the top of the lock on both doors as shown in the attached picture. At first I suspected the door latch cutout/openings were oversized or not the proper rectangular shape (3.75"x 2.75"x1.5") but that's not the case. Both cutouts are correct. I spent most of the last 2-3 days trying various adjustments to "close the gap", but the picture below was the best I could do. At start the gap was a bit over 1/4" at its widest point, now its still just a bit under 1/4" at the widest point (as you can see its kinda triangular shaped).

So, I contacted RVLocks customer support for help. I had a lot of trouble contacting them. After a bunch of time on hold, I finally gave up and sent them an email. I received the following response from Maddie on the RVLocks customer support team:

"Thank you for reaching out to RVLock, my name is Maddie and I would be happy to help you today!
I apologize for this issue! We usually recommend using some silicone caulking around the edges for further water resistance and it looks like that will also fix the gap issue for you!
Let me know if you have anymore questions/concerns.
Thank you!
Maddie
Customer Experience Associate"

So basically -- they want me to ignore the fact that this doesn't fit properly and just caulk it! I know it doesn't show up well in the photo but this is a big gap. I can see into the lock mechanism. I could easily cut the wires on the electronic lock with a knife and a bit of effort. It probably wouldn't let a thief into my RV but I doubt I'd get in afterward either. A big blob of caulk, while water tight for now, isn't going to have the look I expect from a new RV and $400 in new locks. As you can probably tell, I'm disappointed by their response/solution.

Now that I have that off my chest, the real question is: has anyone else seen this problem? Anyone know of a better solution than just slathering caulk around the new locks? To their credit, RVLocks has agreed to allow me to return the locks for a refund (although they're making me pay ~$26 in fees, shipping etc). If there's a solution, I'd like to try it before I send them back. I have considered making a backing plate to cover the gap but I'm unsure if I have the tools to make a durable backplate. It would need to be very thin to work with this lock assembly.

If no professional, durable fix is available I will need to find another brand lock that will fit. Something closer to the original lock shape would be more likely to fit (squarish). Anyone know of a good numerical lock that might do the job?

Thank you in advance for any info you can provide.

v/r,
-Larry

[trailrydr]

What lock did you have originally and how good did it fit? Where there any significant gaps? Does the gap also appear on the interior side as well?

There are other rectangular replacement locks which could fit and take up the gap. Unfortunately most aftermarket locks with that same shape (as the RVLock) may end up fiting the same way as the RVlock when aligned with the hole. If so and wanting to change out the locks may need to have a thin aluminum plate cut to take up any gaps at a local machine shop. A machine shop should be able to cut out the plate to take up the gap and follow the same pattern as the inner/outer edge of the lock but maybe a bit bigger all the way around.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Well I think they have this issue frequently seeing as Maddie says they "usually" say to use caulking to fill the gap. I don't think you will have any way of filling/covering that gap that will look like a properly finished product. I would return the unit and while there is no lock on the door, measure the hole so you can determine what lock will properly cover the hole.
What comes to my mind seeing that gap is a less than upstanding individual could get a pry bar tip in there and pry open the lock assy.

[Rudiger]

Carmtek makes a square shaped lock that should cover the gap. Here's a YT review. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcEU...Bsb2Nrcw%3D%3D

[SolarPoweredRV]

Had the same problem, I returned the RV locks and still haven't gotten around to getting another lock.

I did see that Bauer makes an electronic lock. Bauer is the maker of the OEM lock on my coach, and probably 99% of all others, so I would hope for a better fit.

Please let us know if you buy the Bauer locks and how they fit.

PS: If you decide to keep the RV locks, I would recommend using Stainless Steel as a backer plate instead of aluminum.

[ldb20151]

What lock did you have originally and how good did it fit? Where there any significant gaps? Does the gap also appear on the interior side as well?

There are other rectangular replacement locks which could fit and take up the gap. Unfortunately most aftermarket locks with that same shape (as the RVLock) may end up fiting the same way as the RVlock when aligned with the hole. If so and wanting to change out the locks may need to have a thin aluminum plate cut to take up any gaps at a local machine shop. A machine shop should be able to cut out the plate to take up the gap and follow the same pattern as the inner/outer edge of the lock but maybe a bit bigger all the way around.

Hi trailrydr,
The original lock was whatever came standard on our Momentum. Of course, that lock fits perfectly. The door cutout is exactly 2.75" x 3.75" as specified by RVLock. I think the issue might be that on some doors, mine included, the latch cutout in the edge of the door where it meets the striker plate is offset in the downward direction; perhaps as much as 1/2". As a result, the RVLock is not centered over the cutout. Due to the shape of the RVLock, there's very little room for error in that regard. Any off center amount (up or down direction) risks uncovering the cutout at the edge of the lock as is happening to me. As you note, the original lock is very tolerant of this because its nearly the same shape as the cutout; thus overlaps by a very large margin on all sides.

I also considered using a backplate to solve this problem. I spent most of the day today cutting one from some scrap Aluminum I had available. It's not as easy to shape and cut as I hoped -- the RVLock is an unusual shape vs a simple geometric profile. I'm pretty happy with the final product and will let you know how it works after I try installing it. I'm a bit concerned that although its thin aluminum, it may still adversely affect the fit of the latch. Since the gap I need to fix is on the outside of the door (no gap at all on the inside) and the RVLock outside half is one-piece with the latch/deadbolt mechanism any backplate will act as a "shim" pulling the latch/deadbolt mechanism outward. This may prevent latching in the striker plate. There's some adjustment in that area, but I'm not sure how much. I don't think I can go with a thinner plate without having it bend with simple finger pressure. In my experience fingernails tend to catch on things when they shouldn't. I'm hoping I can find the sweet spot-- back plate thickness vs strength vs coverage.
I'll post results and pics as soon as I finish installation this week.

Thanks again for your suggestions.

v/r,
-Larry

[ldb20151]

Well I think they have this issue frequently seeing as Maddie says they "usually" say to use caulking to fill the gap. I don't think you will have any way of filling/covering that gap that will look like a properly finished product. I would return the unit and while there is no lock on the door, measure the hole so you can determine what lock will properly cover the hole.
What comes to my mind seeing that gap is a less than upstanding individual could get a pry bar tip in there and pry open the lock assy.

Scott'n'Wendy,
That was exactly my concern. In fact, a regular screw driver fits very nicely in the gap I have and I think it would be very easy to pries open the gap, enlarge it and access the lock mechanism directly. After all, the door is just made from thin aluminum clad foam! At least that's all there is in this area of my door. I'm quite sure it would be possible to use this method to pop my door open in about 2-min; caulk or no-caulk. Knowing what I do now about the way these locks fit and how they're built, I really question how secure they are. True -- its an RV, so how secure can it be? Still, the reason I'm spending $400 is to make it more secure, not less. I would bet the top area is a weak spot with all of these RVLock entry door installations. If people measured, I'd venture to say that -- at least with this V4 model -- even if there's no gap on a person's RV door lock, there's likely very little aluminum material under the top edge (about 1/2 way left to right). It wouldn't take much effort to pop a screwdriver in at that point and pop the lock. They really need to reinforce these locks to prevent tampering where unscrupulous individuals literally "go around" our high end digital door locks. As with sophisticated car ignition systems, manufacturers have discovered a low-tech screwdriver often trumps a high end lock or security system.

I have an amateur machine shot so will take a run at making a suitable back plate. I'll let folks know if it works.

v/r,
-Larry

[ldb20151]

Had the same problem, I returned the RV locks and still haven't gotten around to getting another lock.

I did see that Bauer makes an electronic lock. Bauer is the maker of the OEM lock on my coach, and probably 99% of all others, so I would hope for a better fit.

Please let us know if you buy the Bauer locks and how they fit.

PS: If you decide to keep the RV locks, I would recommend using Stainless Steel as a backer plate instead of aluminum.

Thanks for the great Alternate lock recos. I'll check them out. I am going to try this back plate I made but I'm unsure if it will work for reasons described above. The impact on security of the lock is the biggest concern. I may still return them. I'll definitely let people know.

BTW, why the concern about Aluminum backplate? Strength? I considered Stainless but it was harder to work with and unless you get marine grade stainless it will still rust, so I would need to find a high quality marine SAE 316 sheet stainless. I can order it but It'll take time to get.
Is there something I'm overlooking? If the Aluminum backplate works and looks good I may keep it unless there's an issue I'm overlooking.

v/r,
-Larry

[Bungy]

All,

We wanted to add keyless entry to our new Momentum. The reviews for RVLocks seemed great so I ordered 2 -- one for each of our entry doors. Unfortunately I've discovered a fit issue. Using their online selection guide, we purchased the new V4, standard model (not compact). When installed, there's a substantial gap at the top of the lock on both doors as shown in the attached picture. At first I suspected the door latch cutout/openings were oversized or not the proper rectangular shape (3.75"x 2.75"x1.5") but that's not the case. Both cutouts are correct. I spent most of the last 2-3 days trying various adjustments to "close the gap", but the picture below was the best I could do. At start the gap was a bit over 1/4" at its widest point, now its still just a bit under 1/4" at the widest point (as you can see its kinda triangular shaped).

So, I contacted RVLocks customer support for help. I had a lot of trouble contacting them. After a bunch of time on hold, I finally gave up and sent them an email. I received the following response from Maddie on the RVLocks customer support team:

"[FONT="]Thank you for reaching out to RVLock, my name is Maddie and I would be happy to help you today![/FONT]
[FONT="]I apologize for this issue! We usually recommend using some silicone caulking around the edges for further water resistance and it looks like that will also fix the gap issue for you![/FONT]
[FONT="]Let me know if you have anymore questions/concerns. [/FONT]
[FONT="]Thank you![/FONT]
[FONT="]Maddie[/FONT]
[FONT="]Customer Experience Associate"
[/FONT]

So basically -- they want me to ignore the fact that this doesn't fit properly and just caulk it! I know it doesn't show up well in the photo but this is a big gap. I can see into the lock mechanism. I could easily cut the wires on the electronic lock with a knife and a bit of effort. It probably wouldn't let a thief into my RV but I doubt I'd get in afterward either. A big blob of caulk, while water tight for now, isn't going to have the look I expect from a new RV and $400 in new locks. As you can probably tell, I'm disappointed by their response/solution.

Now that I have that off my chest, the real question is: has anyone else seen this problem? Anyone know of a better solution than just slathering caulk around the new locks? To their credit, RVLocks has agreed to allow me to return the locks for a refund (although they're making me pay ~$26 in fees, shipping etc). If there's a solution, I'd like to try it before I send them back. I have considered making a backing plate to cover the gap but I'm unsure if I have the tools to make a durable backplate. It would need to be very thin to work with this lock assembly.

If no professional, durable fix is available I will need to find another brand lock that will fit. Something closer to the original lock shape would be more likely to fit (squarish). Anyone know of a good numerical lock that might do the job?

Thank you in advance for any info you can provide.

v/r,
-Larry

Sounds like you bought the wrong lock for your trailer.

[trailrydr]

On using Stainless vs Aluminum, I do agree that stainless maybe a better choice especially if going to go the machine shop route. Either way, would still use a fairly thin guaged material as both should hold up well to being painted (black?) and used as a backing plate for the lock. Would not think either would dimple with the fitment being so close to the correct size of using the OPs RVLock.