Small nick in gas line — quick fix for weekend?

[BobLandry]

The double barb fittings and clamps will work fine and would probably be good for permanent repair.
I can not understand why GD used rubber for the gas lines.
I suppose I need to keep a couple of barb fittings on hand just in case.

Let us know what size fittings fit the ID of the gas hose.
I would go to an electrical supply house and get some loom to cover the hoses. It's used to contain and protect electrical wiring and would also protect the hoses from damage by road debris.

Even on my Outback, on which Keystone left no corner uncut, the gas lines were black pipe.

[Hoopy Frood]

The double barb fittings and clamps will work fine and would probably be good for permanent repair.
I can not understand why GD used rubber for the gas lines.
I suppose I need to keep a couple of barb fittings on hand just in case.

Let us know what size fittings fit the ID of the gas hose.

Even on my Outback, on which Keystone left no corner uncut, the gas lines were black pipe.

Wow, glad to hear that. I had assumed that all long runs of propane were black iron. I had no idea that some were rubber. Nice to know I'm not
the only one.

[TheGreatAdventure]

Wrapped the line in Gas Thread tape before taping down with silicone tape. Worked well for the 5-6 times we used it over weekend.

Used 1/2" barbed fittings and clamps when I got back and going to ride with that for a while. Feels and looks secure. The job of replacing the full line seems its a little more complicated.

The only actual repair video I found online of someone replacing line on Imagine said GD recommends replacing all the gas lines if one is damaged because of how difficult/impossible it is to remove lines from the lp manifold. Apparently they use a sealer that almost welds it to the block. Instead of even attempting to dislodge and just make my problem bigger I decided to use the 1/2" fittings and clamps and call it a day.

Thanks for all the tips!

[geotex1]

Wrapped the line in Gas Thread tape before taping down with silicone tape. Worked well for the 5-6 times we used it over weekend.

Used 1/2" barbed fittings and clamps when I got back and going to ride with that for a while. Feels and looks secure. The job of replacing the full line seems its a little more complicated.

The only actual repair video I found online of someone replacing line on Imagine said GD recommends replacing all the gas lines if one is damaged because of how difficult/impossible it is to remove lines from the lp manifold. Apparently they use a sealer that almost welds it to the block. Instead of even attempting to dislodge and just make my problem bigger I decided to use the 1/2" fittings and clamps and call it a day.

Thanks for all the tips!

I have worked on several GDs to either replace kinked hoses or add new quick connects. I have not had any difficulty removing connected hoses or port plugs that have the red thread sealant. I think the key is using the proper wrench - a flare nut wrench. I've had to add a cheater on one or two, but nothing ever an impossible struggle. Certainly possible some were assembled such that the tapered threads were buggered and people couldn't get the connection apart. Unless things have changed, GD doesn't assemble these either. A supplier delivers them made up, and it's why they are happy to reimburse you for cost of a replacement hose or encourage you heading to dealer service where the can get one made up and install it.

Take this for what it's worth to you, but do note that worm drive clamps are not recommended on gas hoses because they do not exert equal clamp pressure around the circumference because of the arching at the drive screw. There are screw clamps referred to as seal-tights that can be used. Similarly, tapered barbs are also not recommended for gas applications because of their tapering that a hose can wiggle lose from under pressure and vibration. You can, however, make a permanent splice with a double hose nipple fitting and cinch rings.

[BobLandry]

I was also surprised to crawl under y trailer to find rubber gas lines. I don't see how you can replacce a single section of hose without removing the whole thing and starting from one end and working your way to the other end. The rubber lines would twist and self destruct in the process of screwing in a fitting.
Just about any og the above suggestions would male a suitable repair. These are low pressure lines.

[Dick Noble]

Auto stores carry braided steel slip-on covers for most lines. Might want to look into this. It also looks nice.

[BobLandry]

You would have to dismantle the entire gas line system to slip anything over the end. I would use black loom held on with zip ties.

[geotex1]

You would have to dismantle the entire gas line system to slip anything over the end. I would use black loom held on with zip ties.

No, you do not have to do that. That's why there are union fittings. Yes, you cut the original line to remove, but you don't have to dismantle a system for repair. New hose and use a union or simply go to a line maker who has mobile services for heavy equipment. They have the jaw and dies to crimp hose in-place. Either way, no need to dismantle everything for a proper repair.

[TheGreatAdventure]

I have worked on several GDs to either replace kinked hoses or add new quick connects. I have not had any difficulty removing connected hoses or port plugs that have the red thread sealant. I think the key is using the proper wrench - a flare nut wrench. I've had to add a cheater on one or two, but nothing ever an impossible struggle. Certainly possible some were assembled such that the tapered threads were buggered and people couldn't get the connection apart. Unless things have changed, GD doesn't assemble these either. A supplier delivers them made up, and it's why they are happy to reimburse you for cost of a replacement hose or encourage you heading to dealer service where the can get one made up and install it.

Take this for what it's worth to you, but do note that worm drive clamps are not recommended on gas hoses because they do not exert equal clamp pressure around the circumference because of the arching at the drive screw. There are screw clamps referred to as seal-tights that can be used. Similarly, tapered barbs are also not recommended for gas applications because of their tapering that a hose can wiggle lose from under pressure and vibration. You can, however, make a permanent splice with a double hose nipple fitting and cinch rings.

Good to know. Thanks. Gonna keep a close eye on it through the fall, but may see if i can replace it fully before taking it out next spring.