AC not as cold as I think it should be

[Stevej72]

It may be more economical to switch over to a 50 amp converter, plug and cord than to trade in over a 2nd AC if you are hapy with your trailer otherwise.
Then adding a 2nd AC would require electrical run to the vent if it isn't set up for it.

Thank you for the suggestion. I'm adding this to my file of things to look into.

[Stevej72]

It may be more economical to switch over to a 50 amp converter, plug and cord than to trade in over a 2nd AC if you are hapy with your trailer otherwise.
Then adding a 2nd AC would require electrical run to the vent if it isn't set up for it.

Thanks for the suggestion, I've started a file on things to do on the trailer and will add this.

[Stevej72]

Get Micro-Air Easy Starts for your AC units if you are adding a 2nd AC unit. I can run both my 15K AC units on 30amps with no problems. Each unit consumes about 1500 watts or 12 amps running. I can also run 2ACs on my 3000 watt inverter when supplemented with my Honda 2200 watt inverter. Did a couple of Harvest Hosts like this and it worked well. Of course I run the fridge and Hot Water Heater on propane when on 30 amps.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll add it to my list of things to look into!

[huntindog]

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll add it to my list of things to look into!

As you can see, there are more than one ways to skin a cat. Each solution has it's plusses and minuses. What is right for one person may be wrong for you.
Is this your first RV?
If so, I recommend using it for awhile before making decisions. Often the way one imagines they will use an RV is quite a bit different than how they actually end up using it.

[dryfly]

It may be more economical to switch over to a 50 amp converter, plug and cord than to trade in over a 2nd AC if you are hapy with your trailer otherwise.
Then adding a 2nd AC would require electrical run to the vent if it isn't set up for it.

The converter would not be an issue as it only converts 120vac to 12vdc, charging the battery and supplying 12vdc where needed. The OP's main concern would be modifying the electrical distribution panel to accommodate 50 amp shore power. Also up-sizing wiring where needed. Lots of work but doable.

[Stevej72]

As you can see, there are more than one ways to skin a cat. Each solution has it's plusses and minuses. What is right for one person may be wrong for you.
Is this your first RV?
If so, I recommend using it for awhile before making decisions. Often the way one imagines they will use an RV is quite a bit different than how they actually end up using it.

Yes, it is our first RV. This late in the year we probably won't use if for more than a few short 2 or 3 day trips this year. I think that is a good suggestion to wait and see how it works for us. I could do my research over the winter and maybe have the work done in the spring.

[Wicked ace]

One more thing to look into is how your ducting is set. Close the discharges at the unit to force cool air to be distributed throughout. Look into a bit of DIY to make a copy of an RV Airflow. You can find more on that in the AC / heating forum.

[Foothiller]

I had similar issues, even with two ACs, when ambient gets close to 100 and the rig is in the sun. My bedroom stays OK, but the great room heats up. Forum folks basically said to not expect better than 20 less than ambient (not to be confused with the 20 between return air and supply air). It's tough when you have to travel on a hot day and the rig gets hot while you're moving.

I have black shades, which are terrible when the sun's on them - they absorb most of the sun's heat and re-radiate it into the rig. I've cut Reflectix sheets to fit between the window and the shade and that really helps. Refliectix hasn't caused window problems as some people suggest.

BTW, my rig came with RV Airflow, maybe yours did too.

[Stevej72]

I had similar issues, even with two ACs, when ambient gets close to 100 and the rig is in the sun. My bedroom stays OK, but the great room heats up. Forum folks basically said to not expect better than 20 less than ambient (not to be confused with the 20 between return air and supply air). It's tough when you have to travel on a hot day and the rig gets hot while you're moving.

I have black shades, which are terrible when the sun's on them - they absorb most of the sun's heat and re-radiate it into the rig. I've cut Reflectix sheets to fit between the window and the shade and that really helps. Refliectix hasn't caused window problems as some people suggest.

BTW, my rig came with RV Airflow, maybe yours did too.

Wow, 20 degrees less than ambient isn't much when it's 100 degrees out. Not sure if we'll be able to travel during that much heat as heat and my wife's Parkinson's disease do not mix well. I will try Reflectix sheets. Not sure if I have RV Airflow or not but will check that out, too.

[Foothiller]

Yeah, it's a challenge. My 1997 rig had better insulation. If you have to travel through heat, but not stay in it, here's an approach we used when traveling south to north in Nevada with a forecasted high of 112: We checked into the RV park, then went to a motel. Not ideal, but it was one night.

If you can do marathon drives (I can't anymore), maybe you can avoid staying in really hot areas by driving through to a cooler area. Good luck.