User Tag List

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 28 of 28
  1. #21
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Billings, MT
    Posts
    17
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Foothiller View Post
    Yeah, it's a challenge. My 1997 rig had better insulation. If you have to travel through heat, but not stay in it, here's an approach we used when traveling south to north in Nevada with a forecasted high of 112: We checked into the RV park, then went to a motel. Not ideal, but it was one night.

    If you can do marathon drives (I can't anymore), maybe you can avoid staying in really hot areas by driving through to a cooler area. Good luck.
    Yeah, we can't do very long drives each day anymore. Staying in a motel would certainly be an option while the trailer cooled. Thanks!
    Steve & Lori, Billings, MT
    Mini Schnauzer: Jake
    2021 Momentum 31G
    2014 Ford F250 Gas - Hoping to upgrade at some point

  2. #22
    Site Sponsor Retiree19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    41
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Stevej72 View Post
    Still testing out me new Grand Design Momentum 31G before taking our first trip. I turned the AC on about 2 hours ago and set it to 75 degrees. The temp in the trailer at that time was 85 and the outside temp is 87. In that 2 hours it has only went down to 80 degrees in the trailer. Sticking a thermometer in the vent shows air coming out at 59 degrees. Should it get cooler than that? Not sure what would happen if it were really hot outside.
    Thanks Steve
    I suspect that you're suffering from minimal return airflow back to the air conditioner. What's happening is that the unit can't pull in much air from inside the RV to get the heat out of it. If you pull the cover plate, you'll see that the actual open return air opening is only a few square inches. So what's happening is, the AC unit is doing a good job of getting a very small amount of air good and cold. This isn't going to cool the RV. I thought Grand Design was installing RV Airflow devices in all their new models. RV Airflow does wonders to correct the return air restriction and let you get what you paid for out of the air conditioner.
    2020 303RLS MorRyde 4000
    2021 Ram 3500 Longhorn DRW 4x4
    14,000 GVW Auto Leveling
    B&W Companion3600

  3. #23
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    S. E. PENNSYLVANIA
    Posts
    919
    Mentioned
    15 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    @Stevej72 ....

    If you do decide that you want to upgrade to a 50amp power feed it really isn't a hard DIY project. It's not cheap but it's cheaper than trading up to another rig. Your biggest cost will be the new 50amp power cord, then the new copper wire from the exterior power port to the electric panel, and finally the power port itself. Believe it or not you probably won't even have to replace your electrical panel. The same size buss is used in both 30 & 50amp panels. You would have to modify the bussbar by using a Dremel tool and cutting a small piece of buss out dead center of the breaker lineup and epoxying in a small piece of insulating material between the buss sections. You would then install a 50A 2-pole breaker in that spot and feed your new power wiring to the breaker thus creating two separate 50A buss sections in your panel. You will probably need to swap out one or two of your existing breakers for "twin breakers" but should still be able to get it all in.

    My brother in-law has an older Holiday Rambler 5th wheel that we just did this to this summer. He had 2 AC units but had a selector switch to run one or the other on his 30A service...now he can run whatever he wants on the 50A setup. I think between the new Romex cable, new power cord, new power port, and a few new dogbone adapters he was just under $400 in material.

    Keep in mind that for all practical purposes a 30A/120V power feed has a max wattage capability of 3600 Watts while a 50A 120/240V power feed has a max wattage capability of 12,000 Watts... quite a difference!
    Last edited by IBEW Sparky; 09-16-2021 at 04:58 PM.
    Bill & Colleen ~ Schwenksville, Pa
    2019 Reflection 337RLS
    2006 GMC Sierra 3500 8.1L V-8
    Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags
    Front Stabilizer Bar
    Rear Anti Sway Bar

  4. #24
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Billings, MT
    Posts
    17
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by IBEW Sparky View Post
    @Stevej72 ....

    If you do decide that you want to upgrade to a 50amp power feed it really isn't a hard DIY projects. It's not cheap but it's cheaper then trading up to another rig. Your biggest cost will be the new 50amp power cord, then the new copper wire from the exterior power port to the electric panel, and finally the power port itself. Believe it or not you probably won't even have to replace your electrical panel. The same size buss is used in both 30 & 50amp panels. You would have to modify the bussbar by using a Dremel tool and cutting a small piece of buss out dead center of the breaker lineup and epoxying in a small piece of insulating material between the buss sections. You would then install a 50A 2-pole breaker in that spot and feed your new power wiring to the breaker thus creating two separate 50A buss sections in your panel. You will probably need to swap out one or two of your existing breakers for "twin breakers" but should still be able to get it all in.

    My brother in-law has an older Holiday Rambler 5th wheel that we just did this to this summer. He had 2 AC units but had a selector switch to run one or the other on his 30A service...now he can run whatever he wants on the 50A setup. I think between the new Romex cable, new power cord, new power port, and a few new dogbone adapters he was just under $400 in material.

    Keep in mind that for all practical purposes a 30A/120V power feed has a max wattage capability of 3600 Watts while a 50A 120/240V power feed has a max wattage capability of 12,000 Watts... quite a difference!
    That is quite a difference between 30 and 50 amp service. Sounds like something I could do as I like doing my own work if I can. $400 is quite reasonable, paying labor to have the dealer do it would be a lot more. The second AC unit would have to be installed by the dealer I would think.
    Steve & Lori, Billings, MT
    Mini Schnauzer: Jake
    2021 Momentum 31G
    2014 Ford F250 Gas - Hoping to upgrade at some point

  5. #25
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    S. E. PENNSYLVANIA
    Posts
    919
    Mentioned
    15 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Stevej72 View Post
    That is quite a difference between 30 and 50 amp service. Sounds like something I could do as I like doing my own work if I can. $400 is quite reasonable, paying labor to have the dealer do it would be a lot more. The second AC unit would have to be installed by the dealer I would think.
    Yes it is quite a difference. Wattage = Amps x Volts . So 30A x 120V = 3,600W but a 50A has (2) separate 120V legs giving you
    50A x 120V = 6,000W per leg x 2 = 12,000W.

    Even if you do have to replace the electric panel they aren't very expensive. Also check with Grand Design customer service to see if your rig was prepped for a second AC unit. Have your VIN (serial number) ready when you call them. If you have a ceiling vent/skylight in your bedroom that is usually where the second AC is prepped for and the stat wire would be in the wall at your bedroom light switch. The AC roof opening is the same size as the ceiling vent opening.
    Bill & Colleen ~ Schwenksville, Pa
    2019 Reflection 337RLS
    2006 GMC Sierra 3500 8.1L V-8
    Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags
    Front Stabilizer Bar
    Rear Anti Sway Bar

  6. #26
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Billings, MT
    Posts
    17
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by IBEW Sparky View Post
    Yes it is quite a difference. Wattage = Amps x Volts . So 30A x 120V = 3,600W but a 50A has (2) separate 120V legs giving you
    50A x 120V = 6,000W per leg x 2 = 12,000W.

    Even if you do have to replace the electric panel they aren't very expensive. Also check with Grand Design customer service to see if your rig was prepped for a second AC unit. Have your VIN (serial number) ready when you call them. If you have a ceiling vent/skylight in your bedroom that is usually where the second AC is prepped for and the stat wire would be in the wall at your bedroom light switch. The AC roof opening is the same size as the ceiling vent opening.
    I'll give them a call and see what they have to say about the 2nd AC. Thanks!
    Steve & Lori, Billings, MT
    Mini Schnauzer: Jake
    2021 Momentum 31G
    2014 Ford F250 Gas - Hoping to upgrade at some point

  7. #27
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    34
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You may have the RV Airflow already, but still pull the plenum cover and check the intake to the A/C in unobstructed going up is free of obstruction other than wires, and that the RV Airflow out flow ducts line up well and are sealed with the duct inserts.
    Also, since really easy to do, can drop the styrofoam AirfLow device (have to remove the two 5/16" bolts that hold the metal plate to the actual A/C unit) and check in the two lateral ducts plus the A/C outflow opening to make sure no debris, tape in way. This video shows how the RV Airflow box installs for reference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DUAkF5ecbc
    Though...this may be max performance you can expect.
    2020 Reflection 337RLS
    2020 Ram 2500 HD/Cummins Night Ed
    Missour-uh

  8. #28
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Billings, MT
    Posts
    17
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Teledoc View Post
    You may have the RV Airflow already, but still pull the plenum cover and check the intake to the A/C in unobstructed going up is free of obstruction other than wires, and that the RV Airflow out flow ducts line up well and are sealed with the duct inserts.
    Also, since really easy to do, can drop the styrofoam AirfLow device (have to remove the two 5/16" bolts that hold the metal plate to the actual A/C unit) and check in the two lateral ducts plus the A/C outflow opening to make sure no debris, tape in way. This video shows how the RV Airflow box installs for reference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DUAkF5ecbc
    Though...this may be max performance you can expect.
    Oh this is great, I will check this out in my trailer.
    Steve & Lori, Billings, MT
    Mini Schnauzer: Jake
    2021 Momentum 31G
    2014 Ford F250 Gas - Hoping to upgrade at some point

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

DISCLAIMER:This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Grand Design RV, LLC or any of its affiliates. This is an independent site.