Electrical outlets. Whaaaaaat?????

[minnow101]

I could not find any “old work” boxes at Lowe’s, Home Depot or Ace due to COVID”.

Had the same issue. But there were plenty of the shallow boxes.

[hlozano]

Here’s what my quick connect looked like when my fire place quit working.
Attachment 36694

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[Rivercityjeff]

As the original outlets crack, I replace them with residential outlets or residential 120v/USB outlets in shallow boxes. 4 in 4 years. Cheap and easy.

[Lc1496]

One of the smartest upgrades you can do on the inside and outside of your RV .. regardless of the year it was made.. remove those OEM SC (Self Contained) style 120 volt AC wall outlets and replace with an “Old Work” electrical outlet box and commercial grade Leviton 15 amp outlet with screw on terminals ..

I’d at least replace the ones in the kitchen and the fireplace outlet.. these see heavy current draw from coffee pots, air fryers, toasters, instapots and of course the fireplace draws a lot of current

There are two style of shallow “Old Work” electrical outlet boxes that could be used. One has a plate to the left side of it that backs up against the inside of the wall and when the two screws are screwed in the plastic arm clips press against the wall and that plate on the left side braces the outlet box..

The other style old work box is shallower in depth and could be used in a location where you didn’t have the wall space behind to use first style old work outlet box..

Images of SC type outlet used in most RVs.. If the wires are not properly inserted during assembly into the spring clips then you have a weak connection and potential for overheat and fire...

First two images are "Old work box" two different styles and quality outlet with screw terminals.. the screw terminal connections provide much better transfer of amperage draw when using coffee pot, air fryer, toaster, etc

Last 3 images show how poorly the crimp connections make contact with the RV wiring.. not what you want
Attachment 36597Attachment 36598Attachment 36595Attachment 36596Attachment 36599

The issue that I have found with “quick connect”, is it uses metal pinchers that score the solid wire creating a spot that can break if the wire(s) move or bend. In a vehicle that moves, constantly travelling or slides that move... you get the picture. I am wires guy, so this is my personal opinion but
1. Solid wire
2. Screw terminals
3. Electrical tape over ALL metal connectors
4. Decent PLASTIC boxes. No box shorts
This for A/C. D/C stranded . Sound wiring stranded. Frequencies need stranded to travel properly with less loss. Different freqs travel along different paths ( high ends on outside low on the inside. Alright probably too much info, sorry

[Roadtrip31MB]

That doesn't look like any of the quick connects in my rig, that looks like the harness to the fireplace. Very different than what I was referencing. I have these types which again, are totally acceptable

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jydoYvGSUGs

[Lc1496]

That doesn't look like any of the quick connects in my rig, that looks like the harness to the fireplace. Very different than what I was referencing. I have these types which again, are totally acceptable

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jydoYvGSUGs

Hey excellent reference... ideal connectors are great. No pinchers. Nothing negative to say about them. First choice for me would still be screw terminals though. I’m just old school I guess.

[ggates]

I use the straight push-in connectors at home, but I prefer WAGO lever connectors for mobile applications.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-413-...90052809&psc=1

[fez111]

Hello fellow electrician. Let me say that I have added and/or replaced receptacles on all four RV's we have owned over the last 40 years. I use receptacles from Lowes, using 20 Amp hardware where applicable and have NEVER had a problem related to my work. The units produced today all use "Romex-type" non-metallic sheathed cable.

Soapbox time: It really bugs me that when I do house wiring I have to follow specific rules and practices including workmanship and professionalism. Mobile homes and RV's do not have to abide by the same rules! I cringe whenever I get a call to a mobile home. Half the unit is out and no breakers are blown. I already know they use cheap one-piece receptacles with push-in wiring (The National Electrical Code states that push-in's can be used only for 15 amp circuits). I usually have to turn on everything in the mobile home and then walk through the unit banging on the walls right above each receptacle until I get lights to flicker indicating which one has the bad connection. Off my soapbox now.

I always carry orange, yellow, and red wire nuts in our RV for repairs. I have done many modifications both 12 volt and 110. Have you ever wondered how much easier this would be if they started with any kind of a schematic???

[Lc1496]

I agree with you 100% and again I tape up wirenuts so they can’t come untwisted. I’m tape crazy.

Schematics would be nice but just follow some kind of wiring code would be nice too