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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    A couple of things to just keep in mind... AC shrouds, vent covers, etc., have gone to dark colors in the past few years for a reason: the dark/black plastics and resins are more resistant to UV light and don't break down as quickly as white plastics/resins do. Regarding the lining of interior walls in closets and cabinets, be sure and remove the insulation (Reflectix, etc.) before cool weather comes along. You don't want condensation collecting between the added barrier and the wall and causing mold issues. I'm with you on the dark front caps, though. I wish the front cap on our Solitude was a lighter color for sure!

    Rob
    Thanks, point noted regarding the mold potential. Hadn't heard about dark vs white resins. I have certainly replaced a number of the white covers in the past. Haven't had a black or dark one before so will be interesting to see how it holds up over the years.
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
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  2. #12
    Seasoned Camper Skilletface's Avatar
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    👍🏻 to Second Chance for pointing out the potential moisture issue. When using the Reflex rolled insulation I always cut the piece larger so when it’s put place it creates a compression type fit and created some pleats around the edges for air movement. Same when using on windows just use the shade to hold in place , I would recommend not sealing the edges when used as an additional barrier.

    Had to look up the vents I used on the cabinet doors for additional air movement, maybe overkill but it can’t hurt. If you you chose to install these use 15/16 bit or I think a 25mm bit to cut the whole as it is advertised as 1 inch but it is just under 1 inch. Amazon: MY MIRONEY Air Vents 1-Inch(25mm) 10Pcs Black Circular Soffit Vent Stainless Steel
    2017 F-250 6.7 2019 273 MK
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    My your pleasures be many and your troubles be few!

  3. #13
    Big Traveler Wicked ace's Avatar
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    To get back to the original concern of black paint on the front. Should you decide you don't like it, want to remove it or would like a change you could always do a vinyl wrap. I've seen several done with better and more interesting things on the front cap. My neighbor is a Penn State fan if you get my drift.
    2018 F150 XLT 301a, Screw, 4x4, HDPP, Max tow, Andersen Ultimate w/ Curt Double Lock hitch.
    2019 Grand Design Reflection 150 series 260RD.... SOLD!!!!.

  4. #14
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverbug View Post
    Thanks for the reply. The awning is black on top and bottom. I just wasn't at an angle to check the temp from the top which I would guess is hotter than the underside. But the fact that I can feel heat radiating from the awning when sitting under it tells me that black material is absorbing much more heat than any of the brown or white awnings we've had on other units. I don't recall ever feeling heat coming off the awning when sitting under it.

    I do agree that the air conditioner cover may not be an issue, it just seems more logical that white would be a better option than black for efficiency, but maybe the difference is negligible. My guess is, the color choice was purely about aesthetics and I would guess testing for the difference in efficiency wasn't even a consideration given the examples of the awning and front cap.

    I have decided to go with some type of insulation on the inside of the cabinet rather than remove or cover up the black front. That would certainly be the most efficient and cost effective option...
    I know what you mean! I am on my 4th trailer and never felt heat under the awning! I have a Reflection with black awning and we can't sit under it on a sunny day! It will cook you! I like the fact that it stays looking better than the white ones I have had, but the heat is awful!

  5. #15
    Seasoned Camper
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    Light awnings will show stains much more and some are not reasonable to later remove much without damage concern. Being cooler under the awning is more important to me than the stains on top of awning so light on top is fine for me.

    Tree buds/sap (?) stick to top of awning and are rolled up during awning retraction and come in contact with underside of awning and may permanently stain underside or at least become another ongoing maintenance item to get to before stain is unreasonable to remove. My preference for underside is dark with a pattern that hides stains.

    With light colored awning underside I find myself having to brush off awning before/during awning retraction when parked under trees to avoid effort to later attempt to remove unsightly stains.
    Last edited by TimtheToolMan; 09-29-2021 at 06:42 PM.

  6. #16
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Some good understanding already provided! A perspective on awnings... The JUNK, yes I said junk, vinyl laminate and flood-coated scrim materials used by the awning makers is half-century old technology with extremely minimal improvements put into them even though there have been big improvements available to that low-tech material... There are far superior technical fabrics out there! In fact, some of the best are made right here in the US and not just on my lines. These are fabrics available in a wide variety of color, pattern, and print that reflect UV and not conduct it. Self healing, more stable, and durable. Two problems: way more expensive than the imported junk and awning makers have, across the board, gone to weaker and weaker mechanisms that cannot support a quality technical fabric. The manual rollers of years past no problem at all. Today's powered rollers no way!

    As for refinishing a cap, very doable. However, if it were me and I was contemplating it, I'd seriously look at purchasing a new cap for that as the best adherence is that first coat of paint on gelcoat. All of the manufacturers could do a better job insulating the caps. GD uses Batts, as many do, that are too low in R-valuw and have many gaps. I do not know why considering the insulation industry is actually pretty high-tech and they could literally have one-piece insulation with a very effective facing and excellent sound deadening properties... Sprayed foam would be excellent, but takes away the needed wiggle room to fit caps to units as they are not perfectly square and well-aligned.
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
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  7. #17
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by geotex1 View Post
    Some good understanding already provided! A perspective on awnings... The JUNK, yes I said junk, vinyl laminate and flood-coated scrim materials used by the awning makers is half-century old technology with extremely minimal improvements put into them even though there have been big improvements available to that low-tech material... There are far superior technical fabrics out there! In fact, some of the best are made right here in the US and not just on my lines. These are fabrics available in a wide variety of color, pattern, and print that reflect UV and not conduct it. Self healing, more stable, and durable. Two problems: way more expensive than the imported junk and awning makers have, across the board, gone to weaker and weaker mechanisms that cannot support a quality technical fabric. The manual rollers of years past no problem at all. Today's powered rollers no way!

    As for refinishing a cap, very doable. However, if it were me and I was contemplating it, I'd seriously look at purchasing a new cap for that as the best adherence is that first coat of paint on gelcoat. All of the manufacturers could do a better job insulating the caps. GD uses Batts, as many do, that are too low in R-valuw and have many gaps. I do not know why considering the insulation industry is actually pretty high-tech and they could literally have one-piece insulation with a very effective facing and excellent sound deadening properties... Sprayed foam would be excellent, but takes away the needed wiggle room to fit caps to units as they are not perfectly square and well-aligned.
    I would love to have an old manual awning! In fact, I tried with several RV companies to get one put on, but no go! I despise the electric awnings, in fact about 2/3rds of the time we do not even put our awning out any more! We used to love sitting under the awning, but not so much any more, just to much trouble! Cleaning them, putting them in every time a breeze blows, melting when it is hot under the black awning, putting them in when in heavy rain, forgot to tilt one end on our last trip and it almost ripped off the entire awning!

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverbug View Post
    I know, this one is a little out there. Having a basic sense of logic, when narrowing down our RV choices to Grand Design, I thought it odd that anyone would choose to incorporate a lot of black in the color scheme. Having owned a number of RVs in the past, it's no secret on how poorly they are insulated. The first time we opened the awning, I was surprised at just how much heat radiated downward from the material. I mean an awning is there to cool the people and the RV isn't it? Then on a sunny day we opened the overhead cabinets located at the front of the RV and wow!, the heat radiating from inside the cabinets was really noticeable. Finally, understanding that ideal placement of an air conditioner on a home is in the shade (for obvious reasons), I thought it odd the air conditioner cover is black and absorbs as much heat as possible while the unit does its best to cool the RV.

    I'm in MN so the sun doesn't bake like the Southern states. When I shot various surfaces with our laser thermometer, there was a 60 degree swing between the black vs white surfaces in the same sunlight. The underside of the awning was 150 degrees. I have already decided that when the time comes to replace the awning or its fabric, we'll be getting a much lighter color as our other RVs had (for obvious reasons). I'm curious about options for making the front cap white and wonder if anyone has thoughts on this. It seems that it would be white fiberglass underneath the black (paint)? So would it be better to try to remove the black paint rather than add white paint over the top of it?

    I would want to add a GD decal back on once done to make it look "appropriate" but that's secondary. I also would leave the lower rock guard black as it does not get the direct sun as much as the rest of the cap.

    Thoughts? I'm sure some will give me grief about this post so have at it I can take it.
    I posted this elsewhere, but, if you are looking to limit heat entering your RV; Buy a small bag of WHITE fiberglass insulation from Lowes. It is 16" x 48". (Item #817655)(one was large enough for my sky-light) Remove the inside part of your shower sky-light. install the insulation in the dome area with the extra tucked into the gaps that expose the attic. Reinstall the inside bubble. You will still get more than enough light through. The insulation is almost undetectable, looks like slight clouds in the sky. You will be AMAZED at the temp change in your bathroom! Also, minimal heat loss in cold weather and no condensation.
    Last edited by RVing in Michigan; 09-30-2021 at 02:22 PM.
    Dan and Deb
    2021 337RLS
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