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Thread: Black Paint Removal?
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09-24-2021, 06:15 PM #11
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Chad
2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
2022 F350 6.7L Superduty, Carbonized Gray, Ultimate Lariat Pkg, 4WD, Crew Cab, 160" Wheelbase, 3.55EL Rear End, 3566# Payload
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09-25-2021, 05:41 AM #12
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👍🏻 to Second Chance for pointing out the potential moisture issue. When using the Reflex rolled insulation I always cut the piece larger so when it’s put place it creates a compression type fit and created some pleats around the edges for air movement. Same when using on windows just use the shade to hold in place , I would recommend not sealing the edges when used as an additional barrier.
Had to look up the vents I used on the cabinet doors for additional air movement, maybe overkill but it can’t hurt. If you you chose to install these use 15/16 bit or I think a 25mm bit to cut the whole as it is advertised as 1 inch but it is just under 1 inch. Amazon: MY MIRONEY Air Vents 1-Inch(25mm) 10Pcs Black Circular Soffit Vent Stainless Steel2017 F-250 6.7 2019 273 MK
Retired Tanker Yanker
My your pleasures be many and your troubles be few!
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09-26-2021, 10:26 AM #13
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To get back to the original concern of black paint on the front. Should you decide you don't like it, want to remove it or would like a change you could always do a vinyl wrap. I've seen several done with better and more interesting things on the front cap. My neighbor is a Penn State fan if you get my drift.
2018 F150 XLT 301a, Screw, 4x4, HDPP, Max tow, Andersen Ultimate w/ Curt Double Lock hitch.
2019 Grand Design Reflection 150 series 260RD.... SOLD!!!!.
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09-29-2021, 04:48 PM #14
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I know what you mean! I am on my 4th trailer and never felt heat under the awning! I have a Reflection with black awning and we can't sit under it on a sunny day! It will cook you! I like the fact that it stays looking better than the white ones I have had, but the heat is awful!
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09-29-2021, 06:36 PM #15
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Light awnings will show stains much more and some are not reasonable to later remove much without damage concern. Being cooler under the awning is more important to me than the stains on top of awning so light on top is fine for me.
Tree buds/sap (?) stick to top of awning and are rolled up during awning retraction and come in contact with underside of awning and may permanently stain underside or at least become another ongoing maintenance item to get to before stain is unreasonable to remove. My preference for underside is dark with a pattern that hides stains.
With light colored awning underside I find myself having to brush off awning before/during awning retraction when parked under trees to avoid effort to later attempt to remove unsightly stains.Last edited by TimtheToolMan; 09-29-2021 at 06:42 PM.
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09-29-2021, 07:16 PM #16
Some good understanding already provided! A perspective on awnings... The JUNK, yes I said junk, vinyl laminate and flood-coated scrim materials used by the awning makers is half-century old technology with extremely minimal improvements put into them even though there have been big improvements available to that low-tech material... There are far superior technical fabrics out there! In fact, some of the best are made right here in the US and not just on my lines. These are fabrics available in a wide variety of color, pattern, and print that reflect UV and not conduct it. Self healing, more stable, and durable. Two problems: way more expensive than the imported junk and awning makers have, across the board, gone to weaker and weaker mechanisms that cannot support a quality technical fabric. The manual rollers of years past no problem at all. Today's powered rollers no way!
As for refinishing a cap, very doable. However, if it were me and I was contemplating it, I'd seriously look at purchasing a new cap for that as the best adherence is that first coat of paint on gelcoat. All of the manufacturers could do a better job insulating the caps. GD uses Batts, as many do, that are too low in R-valuw and have many gaps. I do not know why considering the insulation industry is actually pretty high-tech and they could literally have one-piece insulation with a very effective facing and excellent sound deadening properties... Sprayed foam would be excellent, but takes away the needed wiggle room to fit caps to units as they are not perfectly square and well-aligned.Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN
Mountains of Pennsylvania
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09-29-2021, 07:39 PM #17
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I would love to have an old manual awning! In fact, I tried with several RV companies to get one put on, but no go! I despise the electric awnings, in fact about 2/3rds of the time we do not even put our awning out any more! We used to love sitting under the awning, but not so much any more, just to much trouble! Cleaning them, putting them in every time a breeze blows, melting when it is hot under the black awning, putting them in when in heavy rain, forgot to tilt one end on our last trip and it almost ripped off the entire awning!
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09-30-2021, 02:20 PM #18
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I posted this elsewhere, but, if you are looking to limit heat entering your RV; Buy a small bag of WHITE fiberglass insulation from Lowes. It is 16" x 48". (Item #817655)(one was large enough for my sky-light) Remove the inside part of your shower sky-light. install the insulation in the dome area with the extra tucked into the gaps that expose the attic. Reinstall the inside bubble. You will still get more than enough light through. The insulation is almost undetectable, looks like slight clouds in the sky. You will be AMAZED at the temp change in your bathroom! Also, minimal heat loss in cold weather and no condensation.
Last edited by RVing in Michigan; 09-30-2021 at 02:22 PM.
Dan and Deb
2021 337RLS
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