Battery Disconnect Question

**BobLandry** · 09-30-2021, 06:26 AM

Originally Posted by McDugals

Will the battery still charge with the battery disconnect off?

No, it will not.

**Dutchman2** · 09-30-2021, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by BobLandry

No, it will not.

Agreed. I use a battery tender hooked up remotely to maintain the battery when in storage.

Dutchman2

**Dutchman2** · 09-30-2021, 09:20 AM

Originally Posted by Bungy

U

If your storage location has power why are you worried about the disconnect switch?Plug the trailer in and leave it powered up.

Bungy,
The storage facility we are at has suffered several power spikes over the years killing several other RV owners power converters that were hooked to the shore power inside their units. I use a low dollar battery tender and surge protector for this reason. I still had the first battery tender fry during a voltage spike a few years ago on another RV we owned. Just a cheaper solution and piece of mind the battery is being maintained.

Dutchman2

**Keebler** · 09-30-2021, 10:26 AM

Originally Posted by DECelt

You will still have 10-15% self discharge loss every month, and more in extreme temps. I had the same issue and just installed a 20 watt solar charging system. Easy, inexpensive and no dead battery surprises.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

Can you provide information on the system you went with? Sounds like a great option.

**Bigfitz** · 10-03-2021, 12:57 PM

Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood

Is it an OEM switch or an aftermarket switch? OEM should still work, an aftermarket put on by an individual may not.

Does GD manufacture a unit without OEM switch

**Hoopy Frood** · 10-03-2021, 01:36 PM

Originally Posted by Bigfitz

Does GD manufacture a unit without OEM switch

I honestly don't know, but some people will install an aftermarket switch in addition to an OEM switch. I did on our last trailer because the OEM didn't shut everything off. The OEM on our 351M shuts down all current draws.

**BobLandry** · 10-03-2021, 01:59 PM

The only way to disable everything is to put a battery switch on the negative cable. That would include the break-away switch, sensors, electronics, etc.
Every switch GD uses is an aftermarket switch as they do not manufacture their components.

**Hoopy Frood** · 10-03-2021, 03:15 PM

Originally Posted by BobLandry

The only way to disable everything is to put a battery switch on the negative cable. That would include the break-away switch, sensors, electronics, etc.
Every switch GD uses is an aftermarket switch as they do not manufacture their components.

Yeah, I think everyone knows OEM only means installed by the builder. And you don't need to disable everything, only the items that are drawing current. If it doesn't draw any amps no big deal.

**DECelt** · 10-03-2021, 03:22 PM

Originally Posted by Keebler

Can you provide information on the system you went with? Sounds like a great option.

Eco-worthy 25 watt with controller. Available on Amazon at about $35.00. It is all SAE connections. You will likely also need a couple of SAE extensions, a couple of in line fuses ( 10 amp for the controller and 20 for the panel) as well as a better set of clip on or o- connectors for the battery. The included wires were junk. I also put an SAE port on the front wall of the fifth wheel front storage.

I am currently just using bungee cords to attach it to the front of the pin box. Depending on how that works out, I may switch to suction cups. I'm in a storage lot so I can't just set the panel on the ground.

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**BobLandry** · 10-03-2021, 03:45 PM

Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood

Yeah, I think everyone knows OEM only means installed by the builder. And you don't need to disable everything, only the items that are drawing current. If it doesn't draw any amps no big deal.

Yeah, I think everyone knows that you don't need to disable everything, but the discussion had turned to how to eliminate parasitic drains and the way to do that is to install a battery cutoff on the negative side, and that disables everything by default. I suppose you could separate the devices always drawing current from those which are not, but if a device is off and not normally drawing any current, why would you want to?