Hot water heater drain cap

[will camp for food]

Another thing to keep in mind, leave the plug off or the ball valve open after winterizing. I drained my tank, shut the 2 feed valves, opened the bypass and winterized the trailer. the inlet valve was (unbeknownst to me) defective and allowed fluid into my water heater. with the plug in, it froze and split. I had antifreeze but it still split. I know now to leave the plug off, and put a hose screen in to allow circulation if needed

[dkayak]

Umm, it's not corrosion that you have to worry about, the galvanic action between the brass and aluminum could make the plug impossible to remove.

Actually they’re one and the same thing. I respectfully offer that observation as a Metallurgical Engineer with a reasonable background in corrosion. I’m sure the fitting will come right off thanks to generous use of Teflon plumbers tape. There’s no metal-to-metal contact at the threads.

[dkayak]

Another thing to keep in mind, leave the plug off or the ball valve open after winterizing. I drained my tank, shut the 2 feed valves, opened the bypass and winterized the trailer. the inlet valve was (unbeknownst to me) defective and allowed fluid into my water heater. with the plug in, it froze and split. I had antifreeze but it still split. I know now to leave the plug off, and put a hose screen in to allow circulation if needed

Good idea. Thanks!

I think I’ll remove the valve when flushing to winterize with the wand and wait to replace it until spring.

[Ellen and Jerry]

I take the plug out to drain then replace loosely to keep out unwanted spiders etc. The camco wrench seems a good deal.

[caseaton]

Can you provide part or stock numbers for the fittings (from Home Depot) and the hose (MMC)
thanks,

[TyeeMan]

Here is the P/N for the tubing. The tubing you need is a high pressure EVA tubing, McMaster Carr P/N 5632K34.

Do not get the reinforced tubing from Home Depot. Once it gets warm it starts to balloon up some. You need the high pressure EVA tubing previously listed to handle the temperature.

Not sure about part numbers for the ball valve at Home Depot or what ever. All you need is a brass barbed fitting that fits the hose and has the thread size to thread into the water heater, another brass barbed fitting with 1/4 NPT male thread, and brass ball valve with 1/4 NPT threads on each side. One side will remain open so you wont used those threads. Oh, and some Teflon tape and two hose clamps.

[trailrydr]

........

Not sure about part numbers for the ball valve at Home Depot or what ever. All you need is a brass barbed fitting that fits the hose and has the thread size to thread into the water heater, another brass barbed fitting with 1/4 NPT male thread, and brass ball valve with 1/4 NPT threads on each side. One side will remain open so you wont used those threads. Oh, and some Teflon tape and two hose clamps.

The Camco replacement plastic cap is listed as 1/2" NPT.

[caseaton]

Just to update what I did on my water heater:
The drain "plug" on mine actually was a drain "cap", so when it is removed obviously leaves a threaded nipple sticking out from the back of the water heater.
I got a simple ball valve from Home Depot with female threads both ends and screwed it on. I had to temporarily remove the black gas pipe in order to make room for twisting the valve on (very easy to do). The valve was just small enough to close the door.

[KGoesele]

Here's what I did on my water heater. Never have to worry about the plug again. The hose is a high pressure braided hose I got from McMaster Carr and the ball valve and brass barbed fitting and hose clamps I got from Home Depot.

Attachment 36919

Wow! That’s what I call thinking outside of the box. Thanks for the great idea! So, does Brass effect the Aluminum tank?

Before we left our RV spot this morning I went to turn-off the water pressure going to my City water fill and noticed water just running out from under the Water Heater door when I looked left. The plug/cap was a little loose, so tightened, but there still was a drip.

[TyeeMan]

I haven't seen any issue with the brass and aluminum. They are kind of insulated from each other anyway with the PTFE tape and or plumbers putty.