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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by opandy View Post
    Also a DC to DC charger will help to keep your trucks alternator alive.
    There is no need for a dc/dc charger unless your changing the trucks charging system also. The charge from the stock 7 pin will never put out enough power to affect the alternator.
    2021 Solitude 375 RES-R
    2024 GMC Denali ultimate DRW

  2. #22
    Rolling Along AZMike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opandy View Post
    Also a DC to DC charger will help to keep your trucks alternator alive.
    What does that mean?
    Mike & (RIP Karen)
    2021 Imagine 2600RB
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by MnemonicGhost View Post
    I have a 2021 Momentum 349M, I am adding a 400w solar charge system with a 40a MPPT charge controller. I am also wanting to add two 100AH lithium batteries to the setup.

    My question is.... Will I need to change the shore power charger/converter to support the new batteries? If so recommendations?

    I might add a 2000w pure sine wave inverter in the future but for now I just want the solar to keep the batteries charged while it's not on shore power, but then when connected to shore power I want the batteries to fully charge to 100%.
    Take a step back and consider the following. You say you may want and inverter in the future - how far in the future? Also while you can charge you batterys with the stock converter look at the cost of the new converter and the inverter together - plus the required transfer switch if you go the separate route. You will need a transfer switch to disable the converter when the inverter is running.

    As you have a 50A trailer, consider getting an all in one Victron Multiplus II unit. It has a beautiful built in converter/charger and an inverter that can power you whole trailer. The transfer switch is also built in. It's also fully programmable and has other features such as power assist There should be some good sales (15% or more) starting this fall - especially around Black Friday.

    Just food for thought
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerscol View Post
    You will need a transfer switch to disable the converter when the inverter is running.
    I’m not familiar with every type of in inverter/converter/hybrid/ system but I’m not sure where a transfer switch comes into play.

    Where is the transfer switch in a factory system? There definitely isn’t a separate unit anywhere.

    Isn’t the converter always “disabled” when the inverter would be running since a converter runs off 110 and the inverter only runs when your not on 110. The stock inverter passes through 110 when plugged in so I guess it may have an internal transfer switch but wouldn’t all of them?
    2021 Solitude 375 RES-R
    2024 GMC Denali ultimate DRW

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerscol View Post
    As you have a 50A trailer, consider getting an all in one Victron Multiplus II unit. It has a beautiful built in converter/charger and an inverter that can power you whole trailer. The transfer switch is also built in. It's also fully programmable and has other features such as power assist There should be some good sales (15% or more) starting this fall - especially around Black Friday.

    Just food for thought
    I’ll second this. I have that system in our new unit.

    Not sure how soon we’ll see big discounts though. The chip shortage and shipping issues may push that down the road some.
    2021 Solitude 375 RES-R
    2024 GMC Denali ultimate DRW

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKellerJr View Post
    I’m not familiar with every type of in inverter/converter/hybrid/ system but I’m not sure where a transfer switch comes into play.

    Where is the transfer switch in a factory system? There definitely isn’t a separate unit anywhere.

    Isn’t the converter always “disabled” when the inverter would be running since a converter runs off 110 and the inverter only runs when your not on 110. The stock inverter passes through 110 when plugged in so I guess it may have an internal transfer switch but wouldn’t all of them?
    When running an inverter, it powers the unit with 120V The Converter is also powered by 120v and if powered charges the batterys - which is where the inverter is drawing power - thus setting up a bad loop situation. You also want the inverter disabled when on shore power or external generator too - transfer switch does that too if wired to do so. You do not want the converter to be on when using the inverter. Some folk just flip the circuit breaker to the converter, but on my unit there are other items tied to the same breaker.

    Try a search here and over at GD - lots of information on the proper wiring of systems and the need to disable the converter if using an inverter.

    Now on GD units with the built in inverter - I believe it is used solely for the refrigerator circuit they don't need a transfer switch as the inverter does not feed the entire trailer and converter. The multiplus does everything automatically.

    Hope this explanation helps
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  7. #27
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    I've been trying to figure out what thread to post my question to, hope this one is appropriate.

    I am dipping my toes into the the lithium upgrade world, and have installed 2 Battle Born 100 Ah batteries and a Progressive Dynamics 60 amp lithium charger to replace my stock WFCO 55 amp charger. Eventually I hope to have an on-board generator, an integrated charger-inverter and some solar.

    We were boondocking for 2 months this fall on our kids' off-grid farm, and I have 2 Honda 2000 gennys paralleled to run an air conditioner and other 120v devices, and to recharge the batteries.

    Here is my puzzle. With the new batteries and charger, when I fire up the Honda(s) there is an immediate amperage demand of 20 AC amps (as indicated on my portable Progressive Industries 50 amp EMS). Since the theoretical max amp output of a Honda 2000 is 13.3 amps, I run both Hondas (26.6 amp total). Since I used to be able to fire up one genny on ECO mode to charge my original LA battery, this came as a surprise.

    My battery bank does not seem to charge "rapidly", taking most of the day to reach a voltage of 14.2 or so. NOTE: I do not yet have a battery monitor so the only metric I have is the terminal voltage, measured after an hour or two of "rest" after charging. So, I started wondering about the charger. Using a clamp meter, I measured 35-40 DC amps at the charger output at the beginning of the generator startup. To eliminate or minimize dc draws from other sources I had turned everything in the coach off. After about 10 minutes, the DC amps at the charger falls off to 30-35, and the amps at the batteries which start off at about 30 fall off to 25 or so.

    My first question is why wouldn't a 60 amp charger deliver more amps to the batteries until the batteries are almost full?

    A second experiment was to shut off the charger breaker and run the batteries down for a couple of days to 12.6 volts or so to see if the initial surge of charging amperage would increase. I did get a few more amps when charging but still only for 20-30 minutes and then settling down to the previously mentioned level of about 30 amps at the charger and 25 at the batteries. Takes many hours to "fill up" about 160 amp-hrs.

    Any input and education is much appreciated !
    2021 Solitude 3540 GK, Reese Goosebox 20K, TST 507 TPMS, RV Airflow
    2020 Chevy Silverado 3500 Duramax/10 speed Allison, LB DRW 4WD
    previous: First "rig" was a '68 VW Bug and 2 backpacks
    1972 Starcraft 8 tent trailer, '73 Chevy Blazer
    2006 Fleetwood Williamsburg tent trailer, '07 Toyota 4Runner
    2015 Jayco Jay Flight 29QBS, 2012 Ford F-150 EcoBoost 4WD, Equal-i-zer hitch


  8. #28
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    Ok wow. So that’s a lot. First, get a battery shunt. Straight up get a Victron battery monitor. The 700 series with or without Bluetooth. You need to see what’s up with the batteries in real life not a dummy meter on the panel. Your ability to monitor those batteries really is imperative. I have both the Victron 700 and the batteries themselves have a screen that shows me their charge (I have Renogy). The inverter/charger is not great for telling me what is actually happening. Second you are seeing the bulk charge mode and that usually draws a lot until it gets to the second stage of the charger. I really prefer a better charger than what you chose. I have a built in inverter charger that’s 50 amps but i already know I should’ve gotten the 80 amp one. Lifepo4 batteries can take a lot of amps at once. They just absorb the charge at a rate that other batteries never would.
    The batteries don’t charge at a high rate the entire time. They do a bulk charge and then go to absorb and then float. You can look it up on the battle born site.

    These batteries are a learning curve in and of themselves

    And yes it takes many hours to charge them. That isn’t going to change unless you get a higher amp charger. But 2 batts isn’t bad. That’s what I have a 200ah bank.
    Last edited by ardvark16; 11-10-2021 at 05:19 PM.
    2021 Grand Design Reflection 278BH (150)
    2022 Ford F-350 Lariat Godzilla SRW
    B&W Companion Ford OEM 20k with Turning Point

    2019 Ram 2500 Big Horn 6.4 gas (SOLD)
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  9. #29
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lady and the Fishfinder View Post
    I've been trying to figure out what thread to post my question to, hope this one is appropriate.

    I am dipping my toes into the the lithium upgrade world, and have installed 2 Battle Born 100 Ah batteries and a Progressive Dynamics 60 amp lithium charger to replace my stock WFCO 55 amp charger. Eventually I hope to have an on-board generator, an integrated charger-inverter and some solar.

    We were boondocking for 2 months this fall on our kids' off-grid farm, and I have 2 Honda 2000 gennys paralleled to run an air conditioner and other 120v devices, and to recharge the batteries.

    Here is my puzzle. With the new batteries and charger, when I fire up the Honda(s) there is an immediate amperage demand of 20 AC amps (as indicated on my portable Progressive Industries 50 amp EMS). Since the theoretical max amp output of a Honda 2000 is 13.3 amps, I run both Hondas (26.6 amp total). Since I used to be able to fire up one genny on ECO mode to charge my original LA battery, this came as a surprise.

    My battery bank does not seem to charge "rapidly", taking most of the day to reach a voltage of 14.2 or so. NOTE: I do not yet have a battery monitor so the only metric I have is the terminal voltage, measured after an hour or two of "rest" after charging. So, I started wondering about the charger. Using a clamp meter, I measured 35-40 DC amps at the charger output at the beginning of the generator startup. To eliminate or minimize dc draws from other sources I had turned everything in the coach off. After about 10 minutes, the DC amps at the charger falls off to 30-35, and the amps at the batteries which start off at about 30 fall off to 25 or so.

    My first question is why wouldn't a 60 amp charger deliver more amps to the batteries until the batteries are almost full?

    A second experiment was to shut off the charger breaker and run the batteries down for a couple of days to 12.6 volts or so to see if the initial surge of charging amperage would increase. I did get a few more amps when charging but still only for 20-30 minutes and then settling down to the previously mentioned level of about 30 amps at the charger and 25 at the batteries. Takes many hours to "fill up" about 160 amp-hrs.

    Any input and education is much appreciated !
    Since you have Battle Born batteries, I would suggest you call them directly, they can let you know what is appropriate for your batteries and if your PD Converter is working appropriately.

    Second, you might want to check your Converter to ensure that it is set to charge Lithium batteries and it has not defaulted to Lead Acid.

    I also suggest the Victron Battery Monitor (with shunt), however I recommend getting the BlueTooth version, I rarely look at the monitor, I almost always connect to the BlueTooth to check on my system.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  10. #30
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lady and the Fishfinder View Post
    I've been trying to figure out what thread to post my question to, hope this one is appropriate.

    I am dipping my toes into the the lithium upgrade world, and have installed 2 Battle Born 100 Ah batteries and a Progressive Dynamics 60 amp lithium charger to replace my stock WFCO 55 amp charger. Eventually I hope to have an on-board generator, an integrated charger-inverter and some solar.

    We were boondocking for 2 months this fall on our kids' off-grid farm, and I have 2 Honda 2000 gennys paralleled to run an air conditioner and other 120v devices, and to recharge the batteries.

    Here is my puzzle. With the new batteries and charger, when I fire up the Honda(s) there is an immediate amperage demand of 20 AC amps (as indicated on my portable Progressive Industries 50 amp EMS). Since the theoretical max amp output of a Honda 2000 is 13.3 amps, I run both Hondas (26.6 amp total). Since I used to be able to fire up one genny on ECO mode to charge my original LA battery, this came as a surprise.

    My battery bank does not seem to charge "rapidly", taking most of the day to reach a voltage of 14.2 or so. NOTE: I do not yet have a battery monitor so the only metric I have is the terminal voltage, measured after an hour or two of "rest" after charging. So, I started wondering about the charger. Using a clamp meter, I measured 35-40 DC amps at the charger output at the beginning of the generator startup. To eliminate or minimize dc draws from other sources I had turned everything in the coach off. After about 10 minutes, the DC amps at the charger falls off to 30-35, and the amps at the batteries which start off at about 30 fall off to 25 or so.

    My first question is why wouldn't a 60 amp charger deliver more amps to the batteries until the batteries are almost full?

    A second experiment was to shut off the charger breaker and run the batteries down for a couple of days to 12.6 volts or so to see if the initial surge of charging amperage would increase. I did get a few more amps when charging but still only for 20-30 minutes and then settling down to the previously mentioned level of about 30 amps at the charger and 25 at the batteries. Takes many hours to "fill up" about 160 amp-hrs.

    Any input and education is much appreciated !
    If you have a large enough Solar system on the roof, you may not need to add the Generator.

    I have 1,200 Watts of Solar and 800ah of battery storage and I only use my generator on days I need to run the Air Conditioning (I live in FL so that can happen even in the middle of Winter). I will say that I am pretty sure I would not spend the extra money for an On-board Generator, I am just fine with the portable for the few days I need it.

    You might be better off increasing the size of your Solar system and battery bank instead of installing the Generator.

    PS: I am a big fan of installing Residential Solar panels on RVs instead of the 100 - 200 Watt panels from Renogy, NewPowa, Furrion and the like. Residential panels cost less (per Watt) and you can fit more Wattage on your roof with fewer panels (or more panels for even more wattage).
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

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