A different fridge issue

[huntindog]

After reading all of the accounts of poor fridge performance while waiting for my 398M to arrive, I was pleasantly suprised that it performed well for us, and we are in Phoenix AZ!
Until this last trip. It was not cold enough, I kept turning it up with no luck. The fans were running non stop. I was resigned to have to make some fix it mods when I got home. Then I happened to notice that there was a no flo message on the display, that had not been there when I fiddled with it previously. The stove worked fine, so the propane supply was good.
I removed the outside access panel for a look. I noticed that the gas solenoid was mounted in a position that caused one of the square edges to contact the ammonia tube. I did not like that, but I decided to check the voltages before addressing it. I removed the + solenoid wire from the control board, the the board was sending 12V... So I then pryed the solenoid away from the tube and got about 1/8" of clearance. I then plugged the wire back into the board and everything came to life. The propane flowed, ignited, and the fridge worked perfectly for the rest of the trip. (10 days)

I think the solenoid gounded on the tube, causing the sloenoid to be disabled.

I think it just happened to rub thru the paint on the tube and then was making intermitent metal to metal contact...

So this is my theory at this point..... Or it could be a balky solenoid or a control board with an attitude.

Thoughts?

[Second Chance]

The exterior of any electrical component should be ground, anyway. I'm thinking you jiggled something and held your mouth just right.

Rob

[huntindog]

The exterior of any electrical component should be ground, anyway. I'm thinking you jiggled something and held your mouth just right.

Rob

One thing is certain, That sharp edge riding against the tube was not a good thing long term. Eventually it would have caused a leak.

So what are your thoughts on the cause? I would like to be prepared if it happens again.

[Second Chance]

One thing is certain, That sharp edge riding against the tube was not a good thing long term. Eventually it would have caused a leak.

So what are your thoughts on the cause? I would like to be prepared if it happens again.

You're right about the chafing issue! Otherwise, other than jiggling the solenoid and knocking something loose, I'm stumped on this one.

Rob

[huntindog]

We just got back from 3 weeks boondocking on the North Rim.
The fridge did it's trick 3 times. Each time unplugging that wire on the circuit board and replugging it in brought it back to life. When we got home, and DW was unpacking the fridge, she noticed that it was dead. I tried the unplug, replug routine with no luck. So I removed the circuit board for a look. It has a 5 amp fuse plugged into it. A cheap chinese fuse that has non see thru plastic so one cannot see if it is blown. I checked it for continuity, and it was bad. A new fuse and all is well. I cut the bad fuse apart for a look, and it was not blown, but was definently defective. I am confident that it was the problem all along.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Is this the cct board accessible from the outside lower vent cover?

[huntindog]

Is this the cct board accessible from the outside lower vent cover?

Yes.
most of the wires in there go to it. A black plastic enclosure held to the back of the fridge with four 1/4" hex head screws. unbolt it, open the enclosure and the fuse is right there. Mine was a light purple color, which I do not think is the right color for that size....At least the replacement was not the same color.
When I carefully cut the bad fuse apart, there was no typical blown fuse witness marks. Just one side od the fusible link ws resting on its contact. IOW It was not physically connected like it should have been. Just a cheap low quality fuse that would lose contact every so often. I hate that kind of thing. Once something stays broke, the diagnosis is much easier.

On edit: Be sure to unplug the AC power for the fridge in the outside access compartment and pull the 12 volt fuse in the breaker box, and verify the it is actually the right fuse, as some have been mislabed, before doing anything else.... Not sure if this is necessary, but it isn't worth risking other damage.