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Thread: Solar

  1. #21
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood View Post
    So any battery disconnect that actually works as described is defective? Hmm, on that note I think I shall leave the party. Just looks like there is a lot of ASSUMING going on, and you know what that means.
    Yes that corner you have been painting youself into has gotten pretty small.
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  2. #22
    Seasoned Camper more tired since retired's Avatar
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    I don't think "everything" is disconnected. The indicator light on my gas detector stays on UNTIL the battery cables are physically disconnected. Pull the pin on the e-brake with the battery wired and the disconnect key pulled and you still can hear the brake magnets hum (energized). Total disconnected means the battery is completely disconnected meaning at least one cable is off the battery. A call to GD customer service will confirm the gas detector and e-brake stays hot, as some other things like wire fire/smoke detectors stay online as long as the battery is connected physically by cables to the trailer.

    Why don't you make that call and tell GD they are wrong? Maybe they will thank you.
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  3. #23
    Site Team Redapple63's Avatar
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    I am going to come in here and throw my 2 cents in the ring.

    The title itself describes intent, disconnect.

    How’s that is applied is at the discretion of the installer. There is no hard fat rule that says it has to disconnect everything, nor partial. GD made a decision to leave certain items connected because they felt it important enough to ensure those items run continuously. Whether that decision is right or wrong is a completely different conversation.

    We see different implementations across the diverse set of builders not just of rvs, but boats and other items.

    Regardless of your specific installation, if it doesn’t work for you, then we do what we do best, modify it!

    Have a great day!
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  4. #24
    Setting Up Camp
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    Meanwhile.....back to the OP's original quandry.....

    Batteries in storage need attention whether or not they have external residual current draw.

    If you have AC available it's easy during storage to hook up a small smart charger with a desulphation circuit that will keep your batteries like new for years. https://smile.amazon.com/BatteryMIND...dp/B00Q3CM2QY/

    If no AC then the earlier posters suggesting small solar panels are exactly correct.

    Keep your batteries topped off and check water levels a few times per year and your batteries will take care of you when you need them.
    2019 GMC 2500HD Duramax
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  5. #25
    Left The Driveway
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    Went back and checked and OP's question was about solar, not about disconnect switches.

    Anything like this will work great for topping off your battery, assuming its fully charged when it goes into storage.

    https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08BFJ12SF/

  6. #26
    Long Hauler
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    That would work, but pretty expensive for a 5-watt maintainer.
    Howard and Peggy
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  7. #27
    Left The Driveway
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood View Post
    That would work, but pretty expensive for a 5-watt maintainer.
    Is there a cheaper turn-key alternative for the non-solar literate?

    I paid $75 a couple years ago for a Battery Tender (brand name) Solar (before I went lithium). Seems Prices of all things solar are plummeting the last few years.

  8. #28
    Long Hauler
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    I knew from a little reading that 10 watts of solar power is better than 5 watts, which is barely adequate for a maintainer. I have not delved deeply into it as I don't intend to waste my
    money on lithium batteries and more solar. I bought a 10 watt solar maintainer for less than $30, and figure it will do it's job to keep my battery healthy over the winter of non-use.
    Howard and Peggy
    2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
    His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S

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