Added a Class III hitch to my Momentum 394M....

[xrated]

So I've been planning this for the last several weeks, and yesterday I finished it up......me and the welder I hired. So my plan was to put a sturdy hitch on the rear to be able to put an RV certified bicycle carrier on. To do this, I knew I wanted to attach the hitch to the frame of the RV and not just to the thin metal at the back of the trailer. I had to drop the coroplast down back there to be able to access/see what I had, as well as take down the insulation under the floor at the back of the trailer. So for some reason, G.D. chose to "nail" the coroplast on back there (self tapping metal screws for the rest of the trailer coroplast) and it was an almost impossible job getting the nails out of the bottom flange of the trailer frame "H" beam....but I won and the trailer lost on that battle!

I just start off saying...I didn't take any pictures of the project. Once under the trailer with the previous stuff removed and out of the way, I got my measurements for what I wanted/needed to do the install. I wanted heavy duty steel channel to be welded inside to inside of the web of the H beam and sitting on the bottom flanges of the beam. That measurement turned out to be 74 1/8 inches. Next up, the hitch that I ordered was going to have to be shimmed down from the channel a bit (about 3/4") so I also bought two pieces of 3/4" thick by 3" wide flat steel bar. Once the material and the hitch arrived, I fabricated the assembly in my garage....laying it out, marking everything for drilling the holes, and went to work drilling and bolting it up with 1/2"-12 grade 8 hex head bolts, flats, and conical washers, and the nuts....all grade 8 material. I do have a drill press, and that certainly helped a lot when drilling the 3/4" x 3" flat steel bar. After getting it together to my satisfaction, I disassembled it and crawled under the trailer and placed the 4" C channel in place and squared it up with the frame. I then got out my motorcycle jack and used it to lift the hitch into place and hold it there while I dropped in the eight 1/2" bolts. Yesterday, the welder showed up to do the welding for me and complimented my fabrication work and my choice of heavy duty materials for the job. After it was welded up and everything cooled off, I painted the bare metal and then put some new/thicker insulation back in place, put the coroplast back up and this time, self tapping metal screw were used to hold it up. I totally destroyed the aluminum strips that the OEM used to hold the coroplast, so I've got some new stuff coming this week and I will install it when it gets here. Between the materials purchased (channel iron, flat steel, grade 8 bolts) and the hitch, and the welder's fee, I've got a bit over $600 in the hitch on the trailer. The only thing left to do now is to sell our Swagman bike rack that is NOT RV trailer rated, and buy a new one.

[IBEW Sparky]

@xrated

What Swagman bike rack do you presently have? I use an older 5 bike model very similar to this one below that I have removed all of the original bolts and the pin and replaced them with 1/2" hardened bolts along with locking washers and nylon locking nuts. I could have opted to have the pieces welded but it just hasn't been necessary.

Swagman XP 4 Folding Hitch Bike Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009YUK7...TE882E95BRJ365

Mine no longer has the tilt function unless I want to remove that one bolt each time. I never have more than 3 adult sized bikes on it and it's sturdy as can be! We travel a lot with 2 other families all in 5th wheels and they have both commented that my bike rack doesn't move an inch, no bouncing, no swaying, nothing at all. I also used one of these anti-rattle clamps when the bike rack is installed and check it regularly... It's never needed tightening between trips. My 5er came with the heavy duty frame mounted hitch and I must say that I'm very pleased with it!

MAXXHAUL 50023 Tightener Anti Rattle Stabilizer for 1.25" to 2" Hitches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JDD8L3H...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[xrated]

@xrated

What Swagman bike rack do you presently have? I use an older 5 bike model very similar to this one below and I removed all the bolts and the pin and replaced them with 1/2" hardened bolts with locking washers and nylon locking nuts.

Swagman XP 4 Folding Hitch Bike Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009YUK7...TE882E95BRJ365

Mine no longer has the tilt function unless I want to remove that bolt each time. I never have more than 3 adult sized bikes on it and it sturdy as can be! We travel a lot with 2 other families in 5th wheels and they have both commented that my bike rack doesn't move an inch, no bouncing, no swaying, nothing at all. I also used one of these anti rattle clamps when the bike rack is installed and check it regularly... It's never needed tightening between trips.

MAXXHAUL 50023 Tightener Anti Rattle Stabilizer for 1.25" to 2" Hitches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JDD8L3H...ing=UTF8&psc=1

I've got a Swagman XTC2....and part of the problem with it is that the shank portion is for 1 1/4" receiver, but it came with a bolt on sleeve that will convert it to a 2" receiver. It works just fine on my wife's SUV or even on the receiver of my Dually. But the back of the trailer bounces around a lot more that a car/truck does. The new one I'm looking at has a 2" shank...not the 1 1/4" with an adapter. The Swagman model is the "Nomad" and is approved for trailer/5th Wheel usage. Here is a link to the one I'm going to sell......the XTC2....
https://www.amazon.com/Swagman-XTC2-...a-450126565824

[jkwilson]

Before you finish repairing the coroplast strip, think about adding a 4-wire trailer plug. Bikes tend to block lights. I added lights to the bike rack on mine, but didn’t think about the wiring on the trailer until it was buttoned up so I had to undo everything again.

[xrated]

Before you finish repairing the coroplast strip, think about adding a 4-wire trailer plug. Bikes tend to block lights. I added lights to the bike rack on mine, but didn’t think about the wiring on the trailer until it was buttoned up so I had to undo everything again.

That's a great idea.........but, I've already buttoned it up, plus, I added these earlier this year...the vertical 11 LED lights that should be a little above the bike when they are on the rack.

[IBEW Sparky]

I've got a Swagman XTC2....and part of the problem with it is that the shank portion is for 1 1/4" receiver, but it came with a bolt on sleeve that will convert it to a 2" receiver. It works just fine on my wife's SUV or even on the receiver of my Dually. But the back of the trailer bounces around a lot more that a car/truck does. The new one I'm looking at has a 2" shank...not the 1 1/4" with an adapter. The Swagman model is the "Nomad" and is approved for trailer/5th Wheel usage. Here is a link to the one I'm going to sell......the XTC2....
https://www.amazon.com/Swagman-XTC2-...a-450126565824

You could always replace the 1¼" bar on the XTC2 with a 2" bar and have it welded if needed.