Lug nuts

[Hoopy Frood]

If you're smart enough to know what the torque settings are for clean dry threads, then you should know that anti-seize lessens the torque by about 15%. Easy, peasy. And of course, you have to wonder how many people actually get out there with a torque wrench to tighten their lug nuts.

[IBEW Sparky]

Hmm, your idea of a good mechanic and mine are way different. Nothing wrong with using anti-sieze on lug nuts. A good mechanic will tell you that, as long as you compensate by adjusting the tightening torque. Decades ago I got tired of lug nuts seizing to the studs, and started using anti-seize. Granted, with modern nuts and studs it's not the problem it used to be, but won't hurt anything.

Sorry to disagree but it's not a good mechanic that will tell you that, it's a friend or a mechanic that's telling you what you want to hear. Like BobLandry stated above.. it's becomes a guessing game when you add the anti seize to the formula. Best bet is to stay away from it on any wheels that are out on the highway... now if you want to use it on your farm equipment, garden tractors, or a lawn cart that's a whole different ballgame.

[Hoopy Frood]

Sorry to disagree but it's not a good mechanic that will tell you that, it's a friend or a mechanic that's telling you what you want to hear. Like BobLandry stated above.. it's becomes a guessing game when you add the anti seize to the formula. Best bet is to stay away from it on any wheels that are out on the highway... now if you want to use it on your farm equipment, garden tractors, or a lawn cart that's a whole different ballgame.

How many times have you seen a "good" mechanic take his torque wrench and recheck fasteners? Most generally he will check by seeing if the fastener moves when torqued at the proper setting. If it doesn't move, it good. Unfortunately, that is wrong. For proper torque settings, the fastener has to be rotating when the torque setting is reached. If you check a stationary fastener, you're not checking correctly.

We'll just have to agree to disagree, I've worked with machine fasteners for over 40 years, and, while you are entitled to your opinion, it's wrong. Kind of like the opinion the sun revolves around the earth: looks good, sounds good, but unfortunately wrong.

[IBEW Sparky]

How many times have you seen a "good" mechanic take his torque wrench and recheck fasteners? Most generally he will check by seeing if the fastener moves when torqued at the proper setting. If it doesn't move, it good. Unfortunately, that is wrong. For proper torque settings, the fastener has to be rotating when the torque setting is reached. If you check a stationary fastener, you're not checking correctly.

We'll just have to agree to disagree, I've worked with machine fasteners for over 40 years, and, while you are entitled to your opinion, it's wrong. Kind of like the opinion the sun revolves around the earth: looks good, sounds good, but unfortunately wrong.

I know exactly how a torque wrench works... been using them for over 40 years on my personal vehicles and in my work installing large electrical switchfear, fittings, high voltage connection. etc... worked in nuclear plants and refineries enough where you lhave to be dead on with your torque requirements. And you're wrong about my opinion.....
Opinions can't be wrong or right, they are just that...opinions. But making statements saying that putting anti seize on lug nuts won't hurt anything is what's wrong... Just because you have been doing it that way for 40 years without a problem doesn't make it the correct way to do it.

[Boogiejack75]

The lug nuts on our 303RLS have a thin metal sleeve that makes them look shiny. This sleeve tends to crack and slip making it nearly impossible to remove the lug nut. While replacing these with solid nuts I found that nearly half of them had cracked. I recommend taking a look.

I believe that you are supposed to remove the sleeves before attempting to remove the lug nut.

[Hoopy Frood]

It does make a person wonder who was the genius that came up with the idea for those sleeves. I've fought them on relatives' cars.

[fez111]

I had the same issue on a Cadillac I used to own. When one or two of the metal covers finally fell off I had to use a different sized socket on them.

I suspect that the nut torque required for fine-thread studs on our RV's (mine are 120 ft-lbs) is way too high for those metal covers.

[Riverbug]

I use anti-seize on my boat trailers, and so did my mechanic. I've had to replace all four rotors on my truck when the dealership over-tightened the lugs after a tire rotation. I rotate my tires at home and if I need to have them removed for any reason I take them off and bring them in whenever possible rather than depend on the shop to not cause issues. I don't think most mechanics actually check with a torque wrench. They may have their impact wrench set to a specific torque but I'm pretty sure they don't change the setting with every car that comes in. Bottom line, I've never lost a wheel, I've never witnessed the loss of a wheel, and I've never known anyone that lost a wheel due to lug nut failure. I've owned numerous things with wheels; trucks, cars, travel trailers, motorhomes, boat trailers, and utility trailers. I have seen a few wheel bearing failures though - not mine thanks to good maintenance. I think if a person is diligent in getting the lugs good and tight, and checks them after the first 100 miles or so, you're okay regardless of all the bickering over who has the expertise or has torque wrench experience.

[Second Chance]

I believe that you are supposed to remove the sleeves before attempting to remove the lug nut.

The chrome covers are crimped over the lug nuts - they don't come off.

Rob

[AZMike]

The chrome covers are crimped over the lug nuts - they don't come off.

Rob

They come off when you don't want them to