Lug nuts

[Bekkenr]

The lug nuts on our 303RLS have a thin metal sleeve that makes them look shiny. This sleeve tends to crack and slip making it nearly impossible to remove the lug nut. While replacing these with solid nuts I found that nearly half of them had cracked. I recommend taking a look.

[bjlakatos]

Agree-it’s a bad day (flat) that gets much worse (stripped lug nut heads). Get’em off while you can. Curious, did u use anti seize on the new solid nuts?

[trailrydr]

Good info to consider! Same goes with tow vehicles lug nuts. Nothing like being on the side of the road trying to fix a flat and cant get the nut off, or the nut out of the socket.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Curious, did u use anti seize on the new solid nuts?

Careful if you do. Changes the required torque on the nuts. (dry torque/wet torque)

[bjlakatos]

Oh, great point. My understanding is the anti seize is for the face of the cone nut so it does not corrode and bind to the aluminum wheel. It is not to be used on the threads.

[Hoopy Frood]

Oh, great point. My understanding is the anti seize is for the face of the cone nut so it does not corrode and bind to the aluminum wheel. It is not to be used on the threads.

Hmm, I've read just the opposite: anti-seize on the threads and avoid the mating surface.

[bjlakatos]

That would explain why y have a such a mess on my rims then…thanks for correcting

[Second Chance]

The lug nuts on our 303RLS have a thin metal sleeve that makes them look shiny. This sleeve tends to crack and slip making it nearly impossible to remove the lug nut. While replacing these with solid nuts I found that nearly half of them had cracked. I recommend taking a look.

I agree and there have been numerous threads on the forum regarding this.

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Rob

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Once you have added a friction modifier to the threads, be it oil or anti-seize, you will be over torquing your lug nuts if you go by your torque wrench setting. 110ftlbs would end up being something like 120 or 125ftlbs. Over torque too much and you weaken, or break the stud. Like I did on my truck a couple years ago.

Below is a copy and paste, not my words.
Dry torque is a Torque specification given to a fastner that has no lubrication added--this is most bolts and most applications.

Wet Torque is a Torque specification given to a fastner that lubrication is needed/added -- this is for spark plugs, fastners in very high temperatures, corrosive conditions and also heavy equipment "tracks"


When applying torque to a dry bolt more friction is created than applying torque to a wet bolt with oil or other automotive fluids on the threads. With less friction (wet threads), the bolt will stretch more before a torque wench will click. Because friction is such a big factor in bolt torque, it is important to know the difference between applying torque to a dry bolt and a wet bolt. Using oil, anti-seize or other types of thread lubricant is a common practice, but an understanding that wet threads require less torque than dry threads because of friction is very important.

Or if you want to read a lot about it.
https://www.hextechnology.com/articl...ricant-torque/

[RoJoSo]

The lug nuts on our 303RLS have a thin metal sleeve that makes them look shiny. This sleeve tends to crack and slip making it nearly impossible to remove the lug nut. While replacing these with solid nuts I found that nearly half of them had cracked. I recommend taking a look.

What are the size of the nuts?
I would like to get them replaced to not need to deal with it later.

Thanx