Renogy 2000w inverter question

[MnemonicGhost]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qQ...IIL7Yj8A=w2400

So this is my setup (hopefully pic works). It uses 2 awg cable approximately 7"from the battery to the ANL fuse and 6" to the positive side of the 2000w inverter.

[SolarPoweredRV]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qQ...IIL7Yj8A=w2400

So this is my setup (hopefully pic works). It uses 2 awg cable approximately 7"from the battery to the ANL fuse and 6" to the positive side of the 2000w inverter.

Looking at the Wire Sizing Chart from the previous post, you can fuse your current cabling to 120 amp. With a 120 amp fuse, you should be able to run your microwave, however, if there is anything else running on your Inverter, you will probably blow your fuse.

To get the most out of your 2000 Watt Inverter, you will need to re-cable your battery bank and Inverter to 2/0 cable along with a 200 amp fuse.

I strongly recommend against removing the fuse altogether (I think you mentioned that as an option in a previous posting). One thing to remember with LiFePo4 batteries, they can spit out a lot of energy instantaneously, so you always want to protect your wiring and battery bank with a fuse near the battery terminal.

I can't tell from your picture, but is the wiring going to the coach (and/or other accessories) fused as well? You want all cables leading from the battery to have fuses because they also need to be protected.

PS: nice and compact wiring layout.

[MnemonicGhost]

For now I use a 15/50 cable setup to just run to the shore power inlet. I disconnect the breaker to the converter when I do this... It's temporary until I have time to hard wire it.

I will be upgrading to the 2/0 cable in the future and I will take the advice and move to a 200a fuse at that time as well.

I only need the microwave when boondocking in the desert. I have a generator. But in my trailer circle there are young babies and older people so I don't wanna have to start the generator just to make my kids something for breakfast. Plus running the generator for that short time isn't good for the health of the generator.

[Gainestr]

@SolarPoweredRV After looking at your picture, I see that you have two standard AC outlets on your inverter. Do you just plug your RV into one of the 120V outlets to supply power to every outlet in your RV?

[MnemonicGhost]

Yes I use a regular outlet extension cord ( heavy duty 15a) and I have an adapter (15 to 50) and then plug it into the exterior shore power inlet. Then when I use the inverter, I will shut off the breaker to the trailer's converter so it's not a leech on the system.

[Gainestr]

Yes I use a regular outlet extension cord ( heavy duty 15a) and I have an adapter (15 to 50) and then plug it into the exterior shore power inlet. Then when I use the inverter, I will shut off the breaker to the trailer's converter so it's not a leech on the system.

That’s how I figured you did it. Just looking at options for my install and trying to get some ideas.

Very clean install and I like what you’ve done. Thanks for sharing.

[M&Lcamping]

Fuses serve two purposes, One, they protect the device(s) on the circuit and Two, they protect the wires supplying the energy to the circuit (in case there is a short somewhere along the wire's path).

Every circuit should be protected by a fuse that is less than, or equal to the amount of current (at the voltage) that the wire (or cable) can safely handle. How much current a wire can handle is carefully calculated and can be determined by the Wire Sizing Chart I have attached below:

Attachment 37615

Your whole system should be protected right at the battery (within 6 inches) by a fuse that matches the largest cable/load in your system Usually, this is the Inverter load (if you have a separate Charger/Converter you need to make sure this does not charge at a higher amperage than your Inverter draws [if that is the case, fuse {and cable} for your Charger]).

Parts of the previous posts seem to suggest throwing any available fuse you have laying around into your circuit to see which one won't blow when you are using your microwave. This is not the safest approach. You need to determine the maximum 12 volt draw that your Inverter can pull from your batteries and ensure your cabling and fusing meets or exceeds that amperage draw.

You have a 2000 Watt Inverter, with the capability to provide 4000 Watts of surge power. Based on your Inverter's wattage, you should be cabled with 2/0 (two ought) cable, along with a 200 amp fuse (always cable and fuse to the max draw of your device). You have to remember that you may have something else running on the Inverter while you are running the microwave and that will cause your 100 or 120 amp fuse to blow because the Inverter will try to supply power all the way up to it's max 2,000 Watt limit.

The above is based on a calculated Inverter draw of 167 Amps (2000 Watts / 12 volts = 167 amps).

@SolarPoweredRV - agree, we are running a 3000w inverter with a 300amp inline fuse at the battery and do not have issue running the micro and a bit more.

[fez111]

From my husband, who understands this kind of stuff (not me, obviously):

To run a microwave you would need about a 120a fuse on the battery side of the inverter. And you would probably need to use 4 gage wire between the batteries and inverter. Assuming your inverter is close to the batteries.

We only have a 750w Renogy inverter and we don't run the microwave on it.

https://www.lilacresort.com/applianc...ge-draw-chart/ says an average convection/microwave oven draws about 15 amps. The one in our Solitude draws bout 17 amps (we installed an ammeter on each incoming phase) an ammeter). Ohms law says wattage (power) = Voltage X Current:
120 X 17 = 2040 Watts.

Conversely, a n inverter with a true 2000 watt output at 120 volts would max out at 2400 watts, but I am confident that even if it could produce 2000 watts at 120 volts the unit would get very hot and have to expel the heat (cooling fan). The fine print 'may' have a disclaimer that the duty cycle may be less than 100% at full power.

[Littledog]

Yes I use a regular outlet extension cord ( heavy duty 15a) and I have an adapter (15 to 50) and then plug it into the exterior shore power inlet. Then when I use the inverter, I will shut off the breaker to the trailer's converter so it's not a leech on the system.

I recently had a Solar Package installed with a Xantrex XC 2000 Inverter/Charger, 800 Watt Solar Panels, and four Battle Born Batteries. My challenge/issue is that the certified RV tech who did the install only wired the Inverter to my refrigerator outlet that was on my previous 1000 Watt Inverter factory installed. I wasn't too happy about this when I picked up the rig. I am using extension cords now for TV, Router, computers, fans, etc. Xantrex does have a GFCI Option to add to the Xantrex XC 2000. My goal is to eliminate the extension cords. Is it feasible/safe when off shore power and not running my generator to plug my RV into the inverter with 50/15 adapter cables for use of my AC outlets? I would turn off the breakers to my high power appliances like AC units, fireplace, etc... and manage the power output so I would not exceed capacity of the Inverter. Xantrex comes with a great app that a gives high resolution monitoring capability. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

[SolarPoweredRV]

I recently had a Solar Package installed with a Xantrex XC 2000 Inverter/Charger, 800 Watt Solar Panels, and four Battle Born Batteries. My challenge/issue is that the certified RV tech who did the install only wired the Inverter to my refrigerator outlet that was on my previous 1000 Watt Inverter factory installed. I wasn't too happy about this when I picked up the rig. I am using extension cords now for TV, Router, computers, fans, etc. Xantrex does have a GFCI Option to add to the Xantrex XC 2000. My goal is to eliminate the extension cords. Is it feasible/safe when off shore power and not running my generator to plug my RV into the inverter with 50/15 adapter cables for use of my AC outlets? I would turn off the breakers to my high power appliances like AC units, fireplace, etc... and manage the power output so I would not exceed capacity of the Inverter. Xantrex comes with a great app that a gives high resolution monitoring capability. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

I am so sorry that happened to you. Obviously, the "Certified" RV ^%$@@ did not know what you wanted, nor how to give you what you needed. I mean really, why would you want to upgrade to a 2000 Watt Inverter from a 1000 Watt Inverter JUST TO RUN THE REFRIGERATOR, that does not make any sense !!!

There are two ways to fix this and give you exactly what you want: One, try to fix your existing mess and only get part of what you want. Or, two, fix this properly and get more than you thought you could ever get. Honestly I don't think the costs will be much different between the two options, so, I recommend option two.


Option Two:

You need to pull out that Xantrex Inverter and your current Converter and install a Victron Multiplus II 3000 Watt Inverter/Charger. The Victron Multiplus II is Victron's latest Inverter/Charger that gives you two 120 volt outputs that can be wired directly into your breaker panel which will give you 120 volts in every outlet in the coach, it's just like being plugged into Shore Power (albeit 30 amp Shore Power). The reason you pull out your OEM Converter (unless that is already out because the Xantrex has charging capability) is because the Victron Multiplus II will also charge your batteries.

An extra advantage of the Multiplus II is; that it will come on instantly if the Shore Power fails, protecting your TV and other sensitive electronics.

This should be a relatively simple installation and shouldn't take too long, nor cost too, too much to have done.

Option one would involve re-wiring the Xantrex (assuming that it has a 120v, 3-wire, cable connection) to feed 1/2 of your breaker box and re-wiring your breaker box such that the circuits you want 120v Inverter power to are wired into that 1/2 of the breaker panel. This project would involve mostly labor and costs could add up quick, depending on how much re-wiring needed to be done.

PS: you might be able to recover some of your costs by selling the Xantrex Inverter.

PPS: "Certified" RV ^%$@@ was the nicest thing I could say about the person who put you into this position.

PPPS: I now realize that your Xantrex is an Inverter/Charger unit so everything I said about the Converter above can be ignored. I also checked out a video about your Xantrex and now know that your refrigerator is probably hard wired. Because your Xantrex is hardwired option one is feasible, however, it would also involve the installation of a second transfer switch to isolate the 120v Inverter output from Shore Power and/or the Generator. I am still convinced option two is your best way out of this mess.